10s4p 18650 build using vape sleds

The tabs don’t need to be thick or wide if you solder on some thicker gauge wire or braid on them.

I’ll likely get a 4 cell tray that I’ll need to solder to make them parallel or series and I’d like that thick for less resistance but I’m thinking thick tabs would be good for compression strength. Don’t want to lose connections. Will like tape it all down too. Would like something like this: http://www.lightinthebox.com/aa-to-aaa-battery-adapter_p505332.html?pos=ultimately_buy_12&prm=1.3.5.0

But will likely get these: http://www.lightinthebox.com/diy-4-slot-18650-battery-holder-with-pins-black_p1697478.html?currency=USD&litb_from=paid_adwords_shopping&utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=cpc&adword_mt=&adword_ct=84187023794&adword_kw=&adword_pos=1o5&adword_pl=&adword_net=g&adword_tar=&adw_src_id=1810908567_301578074_21687104834_pla-214570461434&gclid=CM6u4dWglc8CFYFofgodLWwCIA

I was thinking you can get some dual lock Velcro (industrial strength Velcro, not your typical fuzzy Velcro) and line each cell channel with a small bit of it (maybe 5mm x 20mm) and the same on the battery to keep it in place.

I lined the bottom of my enclosure with this stuff and my components are rock solid in there. The only downside is that it’s a bit pricey.

Link for those interested: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007OXK2L8/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1474078542&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dual+lock&dpPl=1&dpID=51k%2BVeq-1UL&ref=plSrch

Beware when buying dual lock, there are ones with a straight/parallel Velcro pattern which absolutely stuck at holding things together. The dual lock with the wavy pattern is the one you want.

Humm wonder if the sled and cell with Velcro would be good enough

Wonder if richochetting rocks will damage 18650. Lipos definately I’ve found

just get a piece of poster board to cover it :stuck_out_tongue:.

With those sleds you linked, i think you can get a wide nickel/brass buss bar and glue it to the bottom of the sled and solder the bottom bit to it. Should work well!

Let me know if you want help with this project, id be happy to lend a hand

sThanks. The cells are ordered and I guess I’ll get the 4 cell sleds I linked. I feel it’s pretty fail-proof using these as apposed to soldering. Come round and see it in a week whe the parts are in jinra. I’ll probabl use copper sheeting under the sleds as u describe then glue the sleds down with a soft rubber so they can flex, maybe the Velcro as u say and a thin lid of fiberglass.

This:

Is what I want. They don’t show one for 18650 but I’m going to call Monday to make sure

Hours later and having read this thread again I’m wanting to just use magnets and copper sheeting and some anti corrosive paste. https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=60517&start=25

1 Like

How about getting the copper strips plated using silver or rhodium? Then you will not have to worry about oxidisation of the contacts as much

http://www.finishing.com/faqs/silverathome.shtml

Good idea. Think I’ll try some of this simple solution.

The plan is batteries with copper sheeting connections(plated with silver) held in place with magnets, and duct tape to hold it all.

1 Like

I have been searching for days for a way to connect 18650 cells without needing a spotwelder. Yesterday I found the battery holders with pins and today I stumbled upon this treasure (refuring to the thread).

H3rose what’s ur plan? I’m all in. Doing (50) 30q cells which are on route, (100) 3/8x1/8" n50 magnets, and electrically conductive paste, but not sure on the ampacity of the nickel or copper strip and waiting on that. Likey will do 12mil copper.

Woah this is so cool! So you still get good electrical connectivity? No concern about one of the magnets moving and shorting the entire pack?

Reading that thread I linked things look doable.

There’s a way to test the resistance of the pack and I’ll do that when I first get it going and periodically. From what I read resistance is low. U can use really thin copper that’s easily cutable with scissors. Should be possible to have a slightly flexible pack. Think the bit of movement is a good thing from what I read.

you aren’t worried the magnets may move? Also, what is the purpose of electroplating it?

I’ll duct tape it all down too. I’m not going to bother electroplating I think and just use paste. Electroplated to stop corrosion of copper.

Ahh I see. Very interesting! I’m excited to see how this turns out! Good luck!

@Hummie I found some holders on amazon with tabs that protrude from the case. I figured the easiest thing to do would be to take advantage of said tabs and solder wire between them to connect however many cells in parallel. Do this twice with 2 rows and then wire them in series and boom you got a 2s battery with how ever many cells in parallel. In my case it would be 2s8p or 2s10p.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GRK4PUS/ref=pd_aw_fbt_328_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=FFFD9PJCT03Z9GNHRT4B :+1: :grinning:

2S? You won’t get any speed with 2S, you should go at least 6S.

You also have to think about the cases, eventually, the cost of the cases will catch up to you and out-weight the cost of a spot welder.

Ahhh shit. Sorry my fellow companions ive gone too long without sleep its supposed to be 8s2p 10s2p.

I can’t believe I spent so much time on that sketch and i didnt even notice what i was doing. Hahaha. @michaeld33 You are correct. However I think having the convenience of being able to remove individual cells to chuck at people outweights spotwelding. At least for myself; I really dont want to invest in a spot welder even if it is a cheap diy one. While I have the money for parts I dont have the time to put it together. You know what they say time is dinero and dinero can be the difference between buying a small snack or buying 2 times your body weight of food. Or something along those lines. :sweat_smile: