Yeah I went from 4p dual to 8p 4wd I just doubled up everything.
I used splitters but would save space if you wire 2 ESC to one XT90 connector. So you have much less connectors taking up space.
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Mam you know that I sold my haya because it’s too tight for 4x4. I would get the Recurve instead so you will have a centre channel for all the electronics. Also I’m sure @chaka can chimme in on the long battery wires as he has been doing dual diagonal for a long time. I also think you’d be better with 5P for 4x4 as you won’t have much headroom amp wise with the 4P.
Where did you split the battery lead from and how long are your battery wire?
Can you use those super flat but wide ass cables that boosted uses under there deck, it’s almost like foil. It appears thinner than copper braid
How wide? Let’s assume it’s 99% pure solid copper. 12 gauge wire has a cross section of 3.31mm^2. Let’s say I don’t pad my battery modules. 0.5mm supposed height left from module, 0.1mm for fish paper insulating the copper strip. So 0.4mm thick copper requires 8.2ish mm wide for 12 gauge equivalent.
I have 2 battery leads soldered to the battery one is for the front Focbox and the other for the rear Focbox I used a TB splitter to split the ends to the Focboxes.
I used 10awg wire
According to some copper test data I have a 1mm thick, 10mm wide piece of copper will handle 66amps or equivalent to 9awg (I assume standard, not silicone wire)
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How long? And where is the terminal of the battery pack in respect to the deck (on one side of the board, or in the middle)? Did you just ignoring the long battery wire risk?
Also can someone explain where the inductance of copper wire comes from besides the spin of the multistrand bundle?
In my set up the wider part is the front so I have my BMS and wires coming out of the front. But the wires are not that long I never had an issue. Just don’t make phase wires long. Battery wires have no problems.
and smash two furrows?
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Can’t say how long exactly but it goes from the front of the battery back to the 2 Focboxes
I read the oppositem. Let me pull out my bookmark.
No I’m running one 12s8p it sits in the middle of the 4 Focboxes inside the enclosure.
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I thought it was the other way around, the phase could be long but battery shouldn’t.
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Or like this :
here :
Edit: with the right tool depth at the wire diameter
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Long phase wires will cause motors sync problems and will probably at best ride bad and at worst blow a drv.
If you are worried about long battery wire you can always add some inline capacitors but I didn’t need to with Focbox at least.
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Fk. Didn’t bookmark it. Can someone link that one very detailed RCforum post on long battery wire v.s. phase wire. It has very good explanation and 3 different solutions.
- Long phase wire, shot battery wire
- Caps per length of wire
- I forgot
I’ve been wanting to build a second 12s4p and run two separate batterys with dual focboxes each split ppm to a receiver.
Front and back would be independent from each other.
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Why??? You better have a good explanation for this.