Agacê Cruiser 33" | Dual 5055 | Dual VESC 6 | Paris 195mm | 10S3P NCR GA | Kegels | Lots of 3D print

Hello guys, although I’m here for a long time, I’ve never did a build thread and since I may canibalize this board soon I decided to share it in details

This is my third board and I wanted something more compact to take to class, way more powerful and with dual drive for better traction since the a significant portion on the roads here are crap and there is lot of hills, on a few of them i couldn’t climb because of that

The idea started when I found a cheap and nice looking shape on the eBay equivalent from here. First thing I did when it arrived was to measure it and draw in CAD so I could print the enclosure with a perfect fit

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I spent more than a year just mocking things up in CAD until I arrived in something that I liked

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After that it was a matter of fabricating everything

But this is the final result, tomorrow I will continue posting the rest of the build

By the way this board has probably more than 600 Km on it so far, but there are a big issue that I will discuss later. This shows that even when you plan each part for a long time things will go wrong when trying something new. If you notice in two of the pictures I’m running a single 6355, that has to do with the big problem

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that is one beautiful build mate

Love the attention to detail. Your mock ups are so good I’d almost be afraid to build it because it might not live up to the pictures :blush:

Thanks guys

For the enclosure I wanted something sleek and with a not DIY look, 3D printing was the obvious choice since I have a printer

The main problem was how to print, since my print bed is only 180x190 mm, so I made a few interlocks to glue everything together

Unfortunately all pieces warped like crazy due to the lack of a enclosed printer

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In this picture you can easily see the tabs warped, this was after a lot of time with a hair dryer straightening things up

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And after lots of sanding it was ready to prime, sand a lot more and finally paint

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And the final result

EDIT: for some reason none of my uploads are working, will add latter

No as thin as I hopped since my deck has a pretty big concave, so even if the enclosure is thin, it looks bigger

The main problem was lack of space for washers, each time I open and close the plastic wears down, a few o-rings helped slow it down, but the damage is already done

Nice work!!

I think the design and the final board look exactly the same! Congrats, I always enjoy such quality builds!

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Nice work! It is hard planning a new design a head - something always comes up. Looking forward to those uploads… :blush: what software are you using for 3D? Fusion360?

Thanks

From the guy that make the most amazing enclosures it means a lot, thanks. I always try to sort everything before starting a build to save time and money

Thanks, all done in Solidworks, most of the time I don’t even bother to sketch things by hand since i’m pretty bad at it, but in CAD you can do 2D sketches just to see how things fit together

Here’s the final, not a great picture, but the best I have

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For the drive train I went with something totally custom, first because nothing available was ideal, and second where is the fun in buying something ready to use?

I always liked to use a bearing inside the pulley, everything stays in place and you lower the load on the wheel core. a 17mm bearing was used and the truck machined to achieve a perfect fit

For the mount it was a challenge since even on the 195mm Paris hanger there was almost no space for dual motors with 15mm belts

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The space between the motors is just enough for the motors don’t touch

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Also I made covers for the pulley and a inside cover that route the wire to the back

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But them we arrive at the problem, 17mm was too much material removed from the axle or I got lucky and got a bad hanger. After the 500 km or so I noticed that the motors were close to each by a good amount and them realized that the entire hanger had bent

I’m glad I caught this early or I thing one of the wheels may have snapped and I kissed the road Boosted V2 style

I already made a way to leave more material using a bigger bearing and a spacer, but I will not implement since I’m parting out this build to make a new one

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Why are you parting it out?

Don’t get me wrong, it’s a joy to ride it, but not where I live

The short deck means I ride with the foots right on top of the trucks, so no dampening from the wood, also the small wheels doesn’t help in rougher roads. There some streets that I can’t see if going anything faster than 5 km/h, the eyes start to vibrate and everything gets blurry

But when the roads is smooth is amazing, exactly by being short and light is super responsive

I will keep the basic structure of it, only removing the trucks and eletronics for the new board, this may become the test plataform for the hub motors I’m developing, but there’s a long way to go

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The electronics are pretty straight forward

  • Dual VESC 6
  • Arduíno based remote controller with UART comunication
  • Custom remote
  • DC-DC converter for powering the front lights that I’ve never installed :grin:
  • Metr Bluetooth module
  • Vedder anti-spark switch
  • Battery charge indicator Boosted style
  • No BMS ( Previously Battman BMS, shame that the project was abandoned)
  • 10S3P NCR18650GA semi flexible and spot welded
  • Motor wires embedded in the deck

I think that’s it for this build

Just some comment’s, I have managed to get 44km of range with the top speed limited to 25 km/h. I use it limited to 33 km/h, faster than that is not that stable, you can ride, I got it to 44 km/h once, but you have to be focused

And for last two videos that I did using Metr.at and the overlay from @rpasichnyk

6 Likes

Very nice build thread!

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This is exactly why i decided to part out my 33’ build. These fucking roads are so bad i can’t feel my legs after 20 seconds.

Yeah, the main problem is not feel safe with traffic and can’t keep up with it

Hey nice build one question though

those kegel pronges here:

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How did you make them? Whats the diameter?

I think the diameter on the pulley I design before was 5.3mm, but I was wondering if you did something different

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I buy them in my local fasteners store, they go by ground pins, I don’t know the exactly nomenclature in english, they are made to aligne two parts of equipment with precision before fastening

EDIT: found, they should be called guide pin I think

This ones are 6mm diameter by 25mm length, the fit is really tight, you need a press or something similar to put them on, and a big hammer to take them off

First time I was afraid to crack the core, but it worked

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Why not take a 6mm drill and make the holes in the core fit perfectly?

The pins also hold the pulley in place, there’s nothing else securing it, so it need to be a inteferent fit

I don’t if this would work without the support bearing on the pulley since the belt would generate a moment that would try to pull the pins out of the core