Are ESK8 specific motors worth the extra $$$

I’ve been looking to build my first electric longboard and noticed that motors from ESK8 specific suppliers tend to be more expensive. Saw a video a while ago (can’t find the link anymore, I think it was from enertion) explaining how ESK8 specie motors like the R-spec have things like better quality windings so they don’t melt under high load. Then I also see many people using the Turinigy Aerodrive SK3, is it necessary to spend the extra on an ESK8 specific motor or will a normal hobby motor work fine?

Turnigy SK3:

Motor I’ve being eyeing up for my build (which I think is a maytech OEM motor):

The sk3 motors are unbeatable for their prices. However they dont come with sensors as most esk8 motors


You’ve been marketed too. Ruuuuuun


Its all marketing bs

I wanted this motor too before I decided on going dual motor, . From what I found when I was researching I believe it is this motor, just in 190kv instead of 170kv

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haha sounds like I’ll save the money rather than bolstering their marketing budgets, thanks guys

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One thing to consider on some of the hobby motors is the stiff phase wires. If you can find them with silicone wires it will be better in the long run.

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Yeh i can support ben with this, sk3 have stiff wires

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the silicone verses rubber shielding on the wires isn’t what makes them stiff and not, it’s the fact that some use the mag wire, the winding wire to come all the way out to the bullet connector, some don’t even remove enough enamel from the wire itself when soldering resulting in poor bullet connections. RCTimer is notorious for it. Check the bullets on the stiffer wires, but I have seen stiff silicone shielded wires before, it’s all about the wire itself inside.

Eskate specific motors have keyed shafts so securely mounting a motor pulley is easier.


and for this reason I find it’s worth paying the premium.

but I doubt any common motor used in esk8s have in been especially modified for the application.

except the motor shaft, for the aforementioned reason.

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It’s all about the shaft.

Honestly I the sk3 motor is the best I’ve used up to this point. I’ve had “e-skate specific” motors break on me after 2 months of fairly light usage. The only good thing about them is the keyway. And this can be solved with a file/dremel and grub strews. Never had a pulley slip on my sk3. Not to mention the fact that I have absolutely beat my sk3 to shit, riding in the rain, riding through sand, getting it burning hot climbing hills, and it still runs great.


Hi guys, it’s a bit hard to understand what marketing are you talking about, the Eskating pro motors cant be really compared with the turnigy, quality most of time has to be paid more, that’s all. you should get a try to my builds with those motors if you come in Italy, I would be glad to.

Sure, you gain some thing with an esk8 motor, most of those things can be DIYed with a soldering iron and a dremel though. Ie flexy wires and a flat spot to grubscrew your gear on. Sensors are nice I hear, but I just give my board a kick before hitting the throttle. I’m cheap, some people like corollas some people like lexuseseses.

Why is there this general consensus that hobbyking doesn’t make motors specifically for electric skateboarding when they are doing just that, at a great value? lol The sk3 motors are for airplanes, but Hobbyking and Turnigy make a 50mm sealed, sensored 125kv 2000w electric skateboard motor and I’ve laid down thousands of miles on the 1st one and have 5 running strong on multiple builds, they are tits for the price…

that’s a pretty high price tag for a 50mm motor.

We can get better motors that are larger and cheaper from multiple sources around here like @torqueboards, @JLabs, @longhairedboy, @psychotiller, etc.


It’s actually a 6355 motor, don’t know what 5035 represents. Anyways that design is not very eye pleasing.

I agree it’s tacky looking, but it functions well…

the 5035 is the size of the stator I believe, I haven’t taken one apart to measure yet, but Im assuming the bell is oversized but the stator is 50mm…this would help with heat a lot on a sealed motor and makes sense…I only worry about the life of it’s bearings…we should find out what size they are for quality replacements…and I like orange, you don’t like orange? I figure they can find the body and board better when I go off a cliff, lol, it’s for safety, lol

Really? They should correct that then.

The numbers relating to the motor are pretty simple. 5035 translates to 50mm diameter (normally can diameter) and 35 translates to motor length.