Hi everyone :slight_smile:

Im planning to build my own electric skateboard when i have sold my current board. The board i have right now is a Huger Tech Travel board (feel free to contact me if you’re interested. I live in Denmark). I have already found all the parts so i wanted to know if i needed something more and if the setup is going to work. I want the board to be around 1000$ and be able to upgrade it in the future (which i am definitely going to do) .

The parts: -Enclosure: Knuckles from @psychotiller (https://psychotiller.com/product/knuckles) -Battery: 10s6p samsung 30q battery pack by me with 10s 80a BMS from Bestech (https://eu.nkon.nl/samsung-inr-18650-30q-3000mah.html and https://eskating.eu/product/10s-bestech-bms-80a-10s4p/) -ESC and remote: Cheap ESC and remote from @diyeboard (http://www.diyeboard.com/v11-dual-belt-motor-sine-wave-foc-esc-speed-controller-p-522.html) -Motor, wheels, trucks, etc.: Cheap kit from @diyeboard (http://www.diyeboard.com/dual-belt-drive-1400w2-n5055-motor-power-truckfront-truck-kit-p-422.html) -Deck: Cheap deck from SkateShred (https://www.skateshred.com/wholesale-blank-longboard-decks/downhill-kicktail-dark-walnut-deck.html) -Charger: 4A charger from @fottaz (https://eskating.eu/product/4-amp-fast-charger/)

And a lot of extras such as wires, charging port, battery indicator, etc.

Thanks for reading my post and feel free to tell me your opinion on my upcomming board.

Part list seems ok, but there is a few things I will recommend.

Get a vesc instead of that esc. It feels much better, and you will be able to push a lot more power through. If you are going to build your own battery you will need a spot welder too. These are quite expensive, around $150. Instead of going with the DIYeboard parts, I would have built a single drive board to start with and upgrade that later if you feel the need for it. This way you can get a much higher quality board, with both vesc`s and a better quality/ higher performance board


Thanks for the help! I will definitely take the into my consideration. And in terms of the spot welder i plan on making this spot welder: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b_kGgPVrcCI&t=305s

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I’m curious how you’re going to fit a 10s6p pack with a huge bestech bms in my knuckles enclosure…even double stacked it’s going to be tight with the speed controller.


I think it’s worth it, given all the other high quality components you’re using, to buy a good quality deck from a reliable source. The deck is the heart of your build, and will dramatically impact the feeling of your ride.


Yes… hopefully i can fit everything… I might upgrade to a vesc which will also make some more free space in the enclosure.

I’ve made a sketch that shows how im going to place my parts:

I kinda see what you mean. But why should i go out and spend 100$ more on this deck https://loadedboards.com/cantellated-tesseract-longboard-skateboard when they almost look identical? I know there is some fiberglass and bamboo in the more expensive one but is that really going to change the ride quality much?

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Dont rate a deck’s quality by How it looks- on a picture from internet…


@legend27 your battery is 10s6p but the charger say 12s only…AND are you sure you want 4A/fast charging? Slow charging is better if you want your battery to last.


Ohh fu*k i didn’t even see that! thanks! I think i will be going with this charger instead https://eskating.eu/product/2-amp-charger-10-and-12-s/ and thanks for the advice. Im sure it will help me!

just in case, for the voltage option pick the 42v one. Check and make sure what type of charging port the charger is, and buy the correct one. I think that’s 5.5 mm x 2.1 mm. Let me know how much you spend on the DIY spot welder. If you spend more than $100 then might as well buy the arduino spot welder. BMS is label for 80A 10s4p. You’re getting 10s6p and with samsung 3000 mAh 15A so wouldn’t that be 90A continuous? If so then you might have to bypass the BMS.


@legend27 you can save a lot of space in the enclosure by bypassing the BMS and using a little BMS for charging only

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The 30Q can do 20A continious, so for a 10s6p= 120A continious… The BMS can take max 80A continious, but there is no way you’ll ever draw that much current for a long period of time… usually only a couple of seconds max

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I’m glad you told me that! :roll_eyes:

It’s still going to be tricky fitting 60cells into an 18" long enclosure.


I think it will, but no pressure man it’s all good.

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You could also spend a bit more and get a really bad ass deck. There is this company, or custom builder rather, that makes really awesome decks. It is called Red Ember Boards. @psychotiller makes some enclosures to fit his stuff specifically (The Altar Wedge), which would alleviate all space concerns.

Hell, I think that custom deck master may even frequent the forum :wink:… what is his handle again…

Oh yeah… @treenutter… LOL

I agree that a single drive with high quality parts would be the best route. You already found @psychotiller stuff. Skip the diyeboard stuff and stay on his site for your mechanical stuff. Add the second motor/vesc later.

I would take a nice single drive that I could upgrade later all day long over getting a dual with much less quality components.

In the end you will be MUCH happier with the finished product.

Good luck on the build!


I think you’re right about the BMS. I didn’t really spend that much choosing aw BMS so thanks! And i will let you know how much i spend on the spot welder :slight_smile:

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But then it won’t protect the battery from discharging too much, right?

I will definitely consider upgrading the deck, thanks!

Thanks for letting me know. I have never heard of them before but i don’t think im going to get a longboard since i live in the city and has to get around some corners easy and quick.

I think im going to go with single motor now since i can save som money and get high quality parts.

Thanks for your comment. It’s nice hearing what other people think so it isn’t just my opinion.