Setting the deadband so that you get the most usable movement without it twitching when the trigger vibrates is pretty key, aside from that can extend the trigger arm to turn the small degrees of change into a larger motion, with wheel designs just need a larger wheel to make more motion for the same turning, ultimately comes down to how big you’re willing to make the remote. I made the trigger area big enough I can squeeze two small fingers in there and easily push into braking or acceleration even with thin gloves on.
Literally have 100 of those green boards for sticking between the radio and arduino and for tapping out the ESC and potentiometer pins needed to get signals in and out of the arduino for acting as a transmitter and receiver. I’m willing to get rid of them at cost plus shipping to anyone interested in making their own, PM me ( $2 for a board or $3 for a pair plus shipping )
Basically across the entire turning of the potentiometer (270 degrees) it goes through 1024 digital values (from 0-1023) when reading the analog to digital converted value (0-5V gets turned into 0-1023 the number). If you can only move the potentiometer say 30 degrees out of the full 270 it’s designed to turn then you only get 30/270 = .11 or 11% of the usable range so out of the 0-1023 you only use 113-114 values, so you really have 50 steps of positive throttle and 50 steps of negative throttle. If you go lower angle change than that you get less usable resolution on the motion.
This is a new shell for a controller I made over a year ago and has the same old brains