BoardUp Build | Rayne Amazon | 10s4p 30q | Dual BKB 6354 | Focbox Unity

Hey guys, after seeing @Heat_Seeker BoardUp build, it inspired me to create my first build base on the BoardUp design. As a college transfer, I will be transferring this year to CSUP where there will be more commuting and hills. I wanted to build something that is portable where I can fit into gym lockers, easier to carry around and still be able to get great range and performance. Majority of the parts I will be using are used from resellers on the eks8 builders forum, Reddit, online deals, and locals.

This will be my first real build where I will be spot welding my battery pack. I’ve previously had scraped builds using meepo battery packs, soldered battery packs, and Chinese ESCs. Please bare with me and help me out because I’m still pretty confused about building the battery pack.

Here are the part list and prices I got them for:

Deck: Rayne Amazon Longboard $10

(Used from a local seller) I will be sanding, cutting, and repainting this entire deck after installing the BoardUp guts.

Motors Kit: Dual BKB 6354 190Kv Motors + Dickyho Mounts + Wheel & Motor Pulleys + Belts $165

( Bought on Reddit from dollabillplz) I have some BKB motor mounts that I would like to use, but I’m having a hard hard time removing the motor pulleys with kingpins installed. Suggestions? Does a torch really help?

ESC: Foxbox Unity $200

Got one from the Easter 2 for $400 sale, and was able to split it with someone.

Batteries and BMS: 40x Nkon Samsung 30Q Cells $152.03

Currently, I have this 10s 40A BMS that everyone knows about. Could I use the BMS I already have for charge-only? What is everyone’s opinion on this BMS from their experiences?,searchweb201602_7_10065_10130_10068_10890_10547_319_10546_317_10548_10545_10696_453_10084_454_10083_10618_10307_537_536_10059_10884_10887_321_322_10103,searchweb201603_52,ppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=9405d967-baf5-4ca0-8a78-80f9d15c6456-2&algo_pvid=9405d967-baf5-4ca0-8a78-80f9d15c6456

But I’m not sure how the which BMS is suitable for this build. I want to go for what is the best bang for the buck. And I have read all over different threads about whether to use a charge-only bms, like the BesTech D140, or charge/discharge BMS, Bestech 80A BMS. Should I be worried about the cells getting unbalanced when using a charge-only BMS? Any feedback will be great!

Remote: Mini remote $18 + AVIO Mod Parts $12 = $30


Will be doing, I have a Creality CR-10S so 3D printing isn’t a problem.

Enclosures: Battery Enclosure $43.25 + ESC Enclosure $13.65 = $56.90

I wanted to get enclosures that will be fit for the board to be able to fold completely. So I decided to get the 2x6s Lipo Battery case from and esc case from


Hardware: Esitmate $50

Was about to get most of my hardware under $50 and already had some on hand stuff like, shrink wrap, fish paper, neoprene foam, bumber guards, shock pads, M4 screws and inserts, etc. I also recently won a $100 to Lowes so I was also about to get some bondo fiber cloth, resin, hardener, loctite, spray paint, and more for free.

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You need something like this btlgp7_c

And a torch to heat up the pulley.

Get noice enclosure from @bigben he has different options

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Silicone glued my cells into their P groups and attached the fish paper. What BMS should I go for? Or use the one I have already?

Yes you can, just dont connect anything on the load.

Fishpaper or insulate cell positive ends

And if you need to tape something, use capton tape.


Getting ready to cut the deck tomorrow.

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Finished cutting the deck, now going on with the paint job.




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Slowly coming together


Definitely not. Unless there’s something wrong with your battery pack, the cells won’t get out of balance during one discharge circle. (I have ~20 charge/discharge cycles on my Samsung 30Q battery pack with no cell balancing at all and there’s no noticeable drifting.)

The main benefit of the discharge BMS is that it provides a protection against overdischarge, overcurrent and short circuit. You get the overdischarge protection from your VESC as well though and you can use a fuse to protect against short circuit (few people do; I don’t).

Personally, I like to be able to get individual cell voltage readings from the BMS for piece of mind and for discovering any battery pack problems early. IMO, charge only smart BMS is the best option for esk8. The LLT Power Smart BMS can be had for under $50. Would be a good option if you have space for it (it’s bigger than D140). Then there’s the FlexiBMS Lite, which looks very promising.

@janpom As for overcurrent protection on a charge only bms, what kind of alternative protection is there? The charger? The bms itself?

You mean overcurrent during charging? How would that happen?

:man_shrugging:t2: Just a stupid question, is it okay for me to use the white 40a bms I have for now?

image image image image image image Some more pictures, and yes the enclosures and everything isn’t fully locked into place. Just trying to see how it’s looking so far.

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You’ll want to use it as charge only (bypassed). I would also keep an eye on the cell voltages with a multimeter during the first few charge cycles to make sure it’s doing the right thing.

I like your box. :face_with_monocle:

Gets the job done :grin:, and fits the unity with extra room to spare for the power button and battery indicator. If not, probably could go will 3D printing a riser for the indicator, power, and charge. Don’t know which route togo for yet.


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Start welding my cells into parallel today image image image image