Carbon Jet Spud | Freebord Bindings | Single VESC | 10S3P LG HG2

thought about whether I should make a build thread here or on my beloved endless sphere, but this place is really quite alive and well organized - hard to say no. :slight_smile:

really enjoyed @RunPlayBack Spudnik build and when I recently came across OKPs unikboard video (, which apparantly also use a Jet Spud with freeboard S2 bindings, I was sold - no clue why I didnt think about freeboard bindings on a regular street board yet. bindings are an awesome thrill that allows a lot of cool stuff, especially with a board that is probably a lot lighter compared to my trampa. pulled the trigger on the deck, which is pretty cheap with just 85€ incl. shipping and I had plenty of materials left for some carbon fun.

so for now this build will mostly focus on the infrastructure, i.e. board, wiring and enclosure. the rest is quickly done anyway … so Im not actually sure what kind of motor, wheels and trucks I want for this board yet.

so much for an introduction, lets get to it. started with some proper sanding, since I didnt like the overall finish and build quality of the board. wheel wells werent symmetric, the wood under the sketchy graphics was rough, truck mounting holes were larger than what they had to be, but found out quickly why: the drill spots werent very exact and barely fit my testmounted trucks.

then I started drawing (which works a lot better on wood than on graphics). Had a quick sketch ready on keynote for single vesc and a liion battery and found out quickly, that by taking the wheel wells as enclosure limits, only a 10S3P liion battery was possibly on this board. so far I really loved 10S4P - its a great blend of power and durability. 10S3P will have to work here though, nothing else possible and I think a little less weight probably suits a freeboard well.

just added the ronins and kegels for some visual impression - got these wheels and trucks since forever in my treasure chest and never got to use them properly.

off to routing the electronic compartment - I made some router guide with that straight piece of wood. you can see one routed line there already, nice and straight, much better than free hand routing (which was kinda my first attempt to it a while ago). I carved out wood of 6-7mm depths.

2 long sides done, now the perpendicular sides to have an outline for the rest (which I did with a wider routing bit and without any router guides).

done, some sanding and I called it a good first evening. that 6-7mm depth was REALLY a lot, I think there are just 2-3mm left on the board - sounds really hollow when I knock in the middle region and it feels like I could break the board by hitting the middle hard. gotta need a lot of carbon to restore the structure:

this time I wanted to push a little further like with every build: planned to sink in the enclosure lid like on my evolve board, so that its actually on level ground with the rest of the roadside board surface. this will also make it much easier to trim the enclosure later when its done, since it will act as an automatic trim guide.

used a large nut for a nice rounded lid:

and some routing, I really was extremely careful not to screw it up since, unlike the middle routed box, the sunk in lid will be visible from the outside. I also drilled mounting holes already for M4 inserts, so that those will actually be protected and not visible under the carbon.

few more impressions:

had some burn marks from the router bit because I was very careful and worked very slowly :wink:

added the m4 inserts …

… and used filler to get rid of the 2nd pair of mounting truck holes and some imperfections.

I actually drilled real holes into the board this time for the inserts. my plan is to lay a few layers of carbon roadside to restore the boards structure, then use a very slim drill bit to open the carbon in the right places from the boards topside! the carbon and resin will keep the inserts in place nicely and the inserts will be actually mostly covered by carbon except for the small m4 hole!

problem is with these inserts: sometimes, and only when used with loctite, the inserted threads will come out - set under carbon and resin like that, it certainly wont happen. topside of the board will get the same treatment later, so the inserts will be stuck between 2 resin carbon sheets and that should properly seat them for good! :slight_smile:

anyway, to actually lay carbon, I didnt want the resin to fill the threads of the m4 inserts and exit on board top side, so I added m4 screws into the inserts. Im a little worried about that, not sure how strong the resin bond will be.

threads are covered! quick note here before Im off to vacuum bagging: on all pictures you can see that the surface isnt actually supersmooth, but sanded with quite rough grid (P40). I did that on purpose to allow a the strongest bond between maple <-> resin & carbon layers!

preparations for vacuum bagging: starting with the last things first and then working my way from the top when the resin is set up: vacuum bag prepared, the soaking breather layer, that also allows the vacuum pump to reach every spot evenly cut into the right format!

bleeder layer - basically a release film with small holes in it, so resin can transfer through to be soaked by the breather layer:

nice air grade carbon twill for a sexy finish:

a small tip: when you cut carbon or glas weave, take some painters tape and tape the outline directly on the carbon, then cut right through it! like that you wont have fibers flying around all over the place and the carbon wont fray on the edge:

last thing and basically first layer when I start the layup: unidirectional carbon to max the strength of the typical skateboard load (bending towards road between the trucks).

the layup will be 1x unidirectional carbon (which is a little stiffer to work with and 2x carbon twill, then add the bleeder, then breather, then put it into the vacuum bag and switch on the pump. I really dont think 3 layers is enough to fully restore the boards structure, but Ill add one more gfk + carbon layer ontop to cover LHB-style motor wires (more if I feel like I need it - will do a careful load test after the 3 current roadside layers have cured).

sadly no pictures of the layup - couldnt take any with soggy resin hands and I try to work swiftly because the resin keeps curing.

when I switched on the pump, I used the vacuum bag and the increasing pressure of the bag on the board to smoothly wrap the carbon all around the edges (hard to explain - usually a vacuum bag wouldnt put pressure on the edges really - or straighten them out or wrap around the board). this time I wanted the boardedges covered with carbon - for looks, but mostly to add further structural support and its not THAT trivial to actually get a tight fit and pressure around the edges of the board. I drew a picture to explain it - basically, with rubber gloves on my hands, I pulled the bag towards the middle on topside with really a lot of force while the pump kept applying more and more pressure on the bag.

ontop of that I also used a pretty sharp edged wood block to stretch the vacuum bag in the right spots so that the routed electric compartment will have sharp edges. if you dont do that, the edges will be very rounded, with air or resin below the carbon weave and youll lose a lot of your enclosure surface by that.

fairly sharp contours - this will be one of my sharpest vacuum bagging features on a board so far I think.

here you can see the roadside result of how I wrapped the vacuum bag around the board:

thats it for now - time to clean up and wait for the resin to cure (24h).


Really looking forward to see this little trickster ready :smile:


Looking real good so far like how you went through steps for your carbon

Once again a masterpiece from you @whitepony

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looks awesome @whitepony . Can’t wait to see how this comes together. Are you planning on using bindings?

yea, thats pretty much the reason why I started this little jet spud thing!

my tesseract is too large and heavy for this already imo and the unikboard jet spud binding prototypes look really awesome:

cant really take any credit for the idea - Im really just building a unikboard clone right now before its released - but with routing, inserted wires and carbon. :slight_smile:

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i had seen that binding idea when you posted it in another thread. seems like so much fun. Freebords are sketchy as hell but i think something like that ^ would be super fun. Can’t wait to see what you end up with and hear your thoughts- this may be my second build. Good luck!!

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The more Spuds the better :slight_smile: Great work man!

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Bindings sound really fun. Will have to try that on my upcoming Jet Spud build as well.

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spud army!! :grinning:

just 3h until unwrapping hnnnghhh, this is always like xmas! :santa:

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soo, I started early since the curing temperature was higher than 20°C anyway - Im happy but I need a break now … also, cause its noon on a sunday … in germany where people will give you the looks when you still wield a sander outside on sunday lunchtime. :laughing:

I already noticed last night that the wrapping of the carbon around the board will leave a mess on topside. partly the screws were covered, resin soaked weave everywhere and it wasnt always just flat, but crumbled. long story short: topside WAS a resin crusted mess.

but lets start with the good things! thats how the roadside came out - no sanding, nothing, just removed the breather and bleeder layer.

you can tell its fresh from the vacuum bag from the small white pimples on the carbon. these are the tiny holes of the bleeder layer, where the breather layer gets stuck a little bit.

ok, turning it around … argh :disappointed: this would be a mess for sanding, since from sanding heat, the resin becomes fluid again and then it clogs up your sand paper instantly. also I was super afraid of the screws - looked like the resin actually found its way through the inserted threads and came out on topside, seating the screws nicely. :fearful:

but I mean, at least the board edges are well covered by the carbon - looking good overall except for the topside mess.

alright then, my favourite hobby: sanding in the burning midday heat with 50% humidity and a dust mask against the carbon dust. :mask:

more or less done - the rest is cosmetic litte stuff Ill do before I lay another gfk/carbon layer after motor wire channels. thank god the screws came out and the inserts stayed - I used special screws with a large torx head so that I really could grab them with some torque without killing off the head. all of them came lose after instant full torque with the cordless electric screwdriver and at least the inserts appear to be really strongly bonded with the wood resin and carbon.

rest of the board has turned out nicely. pimples gone, sanded under water with 280, then 600 grit.

and 2 more perspectives

taking a break now, next in line is either routing motor wire channels with topside gfk/carbon OR maybe better to start with the enclosure first - then I can leave the enclosure inserts still closed on roadside, laminate the enclosure over it, then, before removing the laminate, Ill drill the holes from board topside through the carbon layer AND the enclosure at the same time, ensuring a perfect fit! hmm :smirk_cat:


:stuck_out_tongue: #esk8porn

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I always love your builds, setting the standard for the community.


You’re resin and carbon esk8 wizard @whitepony! Waiting for more :wink:

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pretty heavy :neutral_face:


board is pretty light, wish I weighted before routing. :rolling_eyes:

still gotta test though if the board will hold up - testmounting trucks and going down the hill next to my house a few times I guess. dont dare to jump in the middle of the board yet :fearful:

not sure if that kind of load will ever happen really - the board is so short that the feet will probably always be very close to the truck mounting points. seems unreasonable to jump with 80kg on the most vulnerable spot. :confused:


Looking really nice @whitepony

nvm, all my fears are gone and I certainly wont add another layer ontop! that board is borderline stiff really, might be the short size or the first time I tried unidirectional carbon … or its the board edges that give it that little extra. i quickly was bold enough to jump around in the middle and the board was utterly unimpressed.

also doh, this thing after 40kph felt a little scary with the ronins, think 44 calibers probably suit this better!


was a little suprised how incredibly turny that spud is … didnt really realize how tiny that wb really is until I lined it up with the rest of the gang . :heart_eyes_cat:

the vanguard is really a carving monster, but feels like the titanic at low speed from a maneuverability pov. the tesseract is turny, but still feels super solid at 48kph, the spud (admittedly with cronins) around 40kph made me think about foot brake :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:


This is really coming along! What are some of your initial thoughts on the bindings? Will you be attempting jumps with it? How will the electronics hold up on impact?