I am working on putting together my new build and wanted to get peoples reactions to my motor mounts. To get the motors on the caliber trucks I had to use a couple of speed washers, do you think the truck bolts are covering enough threads? Resulting setup has very little room between motors, but they both turn freely.
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Do you mean you put washers in between the mount and the trucks? If so, you should be using the grub screws that came with the mounts instead. If you have a dremel drill a small notch through the grub screw holes, and stick the grub screw in there with some loctite.
No, I am talking about speed washers on the axle, to help push the wheels out further to give clearance to fit these motors.
That should be fine as long as the plastic on the outer nut hits the threads. If it doesn’t, you might have a wheel fall off while riding.
Seems fine but for extra security I would use blue loctite on the axle
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easy fix, put speed spacers between the bearings so that you can tighten the axle nut down tight without binding the bearings and locking up the wheels. Then you really don’t even need nylon locking nuts. spacers are the way to go anyway because they eliminate wheel wobble
Some bearings have built in spacers #note: If the spacers are not long enough, you can add thrust washers to them. I run bearing spacers on all 4 wheels for added stability especially at high speeds.
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My bearings have built-in spacers and speed rings. I added two more speed rings on the inner side to push the wheels out far enough to fit motors, now just worried about the nut holding the wheel on.
cool, then just tighten the nut down tight and don’t worry about the nylon lock. They’re not gonna come loose if there torqued down tight. You can also omit the outside thrust washer if the inner bearing race sticks out past the bearing seal enough.
I did the same thing to fit dual 5065 motors on Paris 195 truck. two 5mm’ish cf spacers on axle to push them out a bit.
I had some slightly shallower locking nuts that worked perfect. I might check the local home depot/lowes/etc. to see if they have any nylock nuts that are a little less tall? And maybe some blue loctite to be on the safe side.
Looks good! can’t wait to see the finished build!
Yea that’s what I thought too. However too tight and the bearings lock up, so I made it as tight as I could without locking up the bearing and nylon didnt catch the threads. My nut fell off during ride and so did my back wheel, LOL.
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you should be able to torque the nut down without binding the bearings and wheels. If you can’t, then your spacers are not long enough. then just add 1 or 2 thrust washers between the bearings with the spacers. Not tightening the nuts all the way down can also cause speed wobbles.
Thanks for the responses. I need to tear it down to paint the blue mounts black and will add Loctite when I reassemble, going for black and gold all around other than the wheels of course.
Deck came in last week! Looks beautiful except for one little scrape on the bottom, but it’s no big deal.
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Either use nylocks OR threadlock. Don’t use both, threadlock eats plastic.
Also received the gold hardware. I am a little worried the screws will pull through the carbon fiber, given they are sitting so low. Thoughts @carl.1 ?
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all the important bits are insulated and the sinks don’t make any connections to the board so you should be safe.
Just be careful with the phase wires and where the exit the carbon enclosure. That would be my only concern.
That makes sense!
Since I am having trouble fitting these larger motors what do you think about using the Turnigy 6354 instead? They seem much smaller.
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The kv is too high for 10s, could end up blowing a drv chip due to high erpm.