Chinese board repair and upgrade help. So you bought a chinese board huh? Wanna talk about it?

I’ve been searching a lot and finding that there are a lot of people buying chinese boards and wanting to upgrade them. I thought we couuld use a thread where poeple shared what parts they used and how they upgraded it. Maybe some of the pro DIY guys can give advice on what parts to buy and where to buy them. Please share any repairs or upgrades you’ve made to a chinese board. And i know people on here hate the chinese clones, but let’s try to make this thread about building and repairing. Not about slamming people for buying a chinese board. Please. Lol


this guy in the UK has some good video’s for upgrading broken china boards.


Here’s a link to a thread of some upgrades done to another bench wheel. Good stuff guys.

Cheers for linking my thread. Happy with what I’ve done with it.

if you want a step by step VESC upgrade:

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Hmm, nobody documented anything in almost 2 years time after this thread got started ?! Anyways, here is my contribution, it started with my friend got one for his son after learning that i got one & he got his even cheaper online for about USD90 delivered ! After close to a month, it broke down, doesn’t power up however when the charger is plug-in, it works fine. This is expected since it was damn cheap, he knows that i previously mod ebikes & asked for my help. i told him most likely its just one of the cell is faulty.

Click here for battery pack repairing

IMG_20180916_121821 This is how it looks like dismantled, replaced with a recycle Sony US18650GR 2.1AH green cell. it was soldered back to the pack.

IMG_20180916_121949 A close up shot of the BMS

IMG_20180916_122003 To identify the faulty cell, measure each of the cell directly with a multimeter, you will have to desoldering the RED circle area then the whole BMS can be move freely. Or at the BMS, measure the RED circle area to B1, B1 to B2 so on & so forth, it should having about 3.7 Volt.

IMG_20180916_122008 The BMS measures zero volt between B5 & B6 meaning most likely it is dead. i’ve tried a quick reviving technique but still it won’t hold charge. To know more about the quick reviving technique then refer to the below youtube videos.

IMG_20180916_122017 Found some info on the other side of the battery. its a 2000mAh capacity

IMG_20180916_122053 This is the latest controller that doesn’t require powering up. Just lay the skateboard on the ground, give it a push & it will auto power up !

IMG_20180916_124234 Everything installed back to the case.

IMG_20180916_124242 A close up shot, did you notice whats wrong with it ? The motor won’t move if wired accordingly ! ( Phase wire blue & green )

IMG_20180916_124441 Everything tidied up & pack back to the case as how it was dismantled.

IMG_20180916_124653 Yeoh man, you got the seal wrongly installed or is this the correct way, anyways, this is how it was when i dismantled it so i’ll just reinstall it back the same way.

IMG_20180916_125036 Everything up & running.

IMG_20180916_125101 it kinda look nicer with the screw being on the outside.

IMG_20180916_125113 The technique i use is to press & feel the screw on the grip tape sand paper. When you found it, use a pen knife, cut it a little bit where the middle of the screw is. After that, opening it with a Philips screw driver will be alot easier.

HD%206S%207S HD capture of the controller, it is the same generic controller meaning it can be upgraded to 10S. Can you spot where is 6S & 7S ?

Click here if you can't see it


10S upgrade

WARNING ! Speed kills, this is no joke, Always Wear A Helmet, perhaps it is also a good idea to wear full body Skateboarding Protective Gear & even a full face helmet if you intend to go top speed with it !

Click here for details

Upgraded mine to 10S awhile ago & the acceleration is a huge different ! Got all the parts but took the longest time scouting for the enclosure to house the 3 extra cell.

4x1_holderV2_preview_featured Found a 4 cell holder but the 3D printing alone costs USD25 !

You’ll fall in love with your toys, you wanna use the top grade parts & it’ll end up costing more than the board itself so don’t fall in love with it. :laughing: At the end, i use cheapo for my 10S upgrade, everything cost about USD25 & that is the same price for just the 3D printing only !

weatherproof%20case inside%20case i end up using this cheapo waterproof camping case, cost me about USD1 only !

long%20board If you are already using this longboard then there are plenty of spaces for the extra batteries.

cheap%2018650 You’ll need a total of 10 cells, extra 3 cells as existing is already 7 cells, cost me a total of USD5 for 3 cell. This cheapo 18650 works fine on flat & will starts beeping on hill climbing.

cheap%2010S%20BMS You’ll need a 10S BMS to properly charge all the 10 cells, cost me about USD9.

BMS%20wiring This cheapo 10S BMS is not able to supply the intended amperage so the P- is not connected,. The cons here is that it won’t cut off when the battery is too low so you gotta make sure not to over discharge it or most of your cells will go bad very soon !

cheap%2042V%20charger You’ll need a 10S charger, cost me about USD10.

my%20controller%20HD HD photo, you’ll need to remove the zero ohm smd resistor both at 6S or 7S if exists.

Click here if you can't see it





IMG_20180917_125211 Cheap fake 2800mAh 18650 battery. You can’t go uphill with these.

IMG_20180917_125247 10S BMS on the left. Wiring is abit messy at the bottom here. :sweat_smile:

Enjoy your upgrades, Think Safety First, Always !

13S upgrade

Click here for details

IMG_20180917_125625 Why 13S & not 12S you asked, parts required are more or less the same except for the price differences on 12S & 13S is hugh ! 13S BMS are mass produce for ebikes/ escooters thats why they are cheap. Overvolting 36V to 48V on ebikes is an easy job & it works the same for this V1.3 board. And the case fits 6 extra cell just nice. :sunglasses: ( existing 7 + 6 = 13S )

13S%20mod All you have to do is replace the existing 1M ohm smd resistor with the unused 1.2M ohm resistor from besides the label 6S. Soldering & desoldering on smd is quite tricky so refer to the below youtube videos for details or you might spoil your board so be careful.

2%20mod If you have the latest V3.2 like my friend then you need to add a 470 ohm 1 or 2 watt resistor or higher to lowered down the input voltage to 7815 at the back of the PCB. RED round circle is the built-in 200 ohm 1/4 watt resistor in parallel so total its 50 ohm 1 watt. 7815 has a maximum voltage of 40 Volts, i did measure existing stock 7S battery pack is 29 Volt & the input at 7815 is 27 Volts meaning the on board resistor doesn’t really do its job. You’ll need to trial & error as i didn’t try it on my friend’s board.

7815 Fyi, 13S charger charging voltage is 54.6 Volt so make sure that the 7815 is not over voltage at its input. The easiest way to add the resistor is lift the 7815 input on the right then solder the resistor to it & the other end of the resistor directly to the PCB.

The other upgrades you’ll require is the 13S BMS, 13S Li-ion Charger & 6 additional 18650 for this mod.

Enjoy your upgrades, Think Safety First, Always !

Anatomy of the Chinese ESC Model SZ01_A_V1.3

Click here for details



  1. XL7005A takes the input voltage & regulate it down to 15 Volt

78L05 2. 78L05 takes the 15 Volt output from XL7005A & regulate it down to 5 Volt

RT9193 3. DE=A1D aka RT9193 takes the 5 Volt output from 78L05 & regulate it to 3.3 Volt

NRF24L01 4. NRF24L01

SPMC65SF112A 5. Couldn’t find much info on SPMC65SF112A except it is manufactured by SunPlus. Many ebikes controller seems to use them & it support software tweaking

GPM3248A 6. Couldn’t find much info on GPM3248A either except it is manufactured by a subsidiary of SunPlus, General Plus i think

FD2103S 7. FD2103S

S68N08R 8. S68N08R is the mosfet mounted to a stainless steel heat sink, i think ?! How did they do it, i wonder, tried desoldering with hot gun & soldering iron, it just won’t come off. :thinking: May be its a new manufacturing technique to prevent vibration as normally these mosfets are mounted with screws & nuts. There seems to be copper on the mosfet side of the heat sink but they are not shorted ( common drain ) without mica sheet & bush

Miscellaneous upgrade option

Click here for details



IMG_20180929_172335 Using a slightly larger case then you can use 10S2P battery pack. On top of that, when you mount it in the front, it will stop speed wobble too


IMG_20180929_164910 Or replace existing with 21700 aka Tesla battery, fits 6 cell nicely. Or even 26650 but i have not test whether it will fit as i don’t have any 26650 cell

16S Upgrade Upgrade mosfet to FDP2532 or IRFB4115

470uF%20100V Upgrade existing cap to 100 Volt

IMG_20180929_224447 Then you can use this hover board battery that comes with built-in 16S BMS

15V Found that there is also a 7815 on the Dual Motor ESC then i guess the mod here can be apply as well but without physically having the board in hand, i just can’t really tell if it will work the same, you’ll have to trial & error with the info here


I would be interested in a guide/thread to turning hubmotors into axial drive motors… :stuck_out_tongue:


You can’t, both are made of a totally different design. This site got good info regarding motor :+1:

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Also did a custom repair on that chinese “small fish plate board”. Found this website just now but couldn’t find anything on the ESC that’s in mine. It’s labelled Reintech RT-60D (single motor version). I tried to overvolt just for fun at on point, and wired on my 14S4P eBike battery which was at 52.7V… Motor spinned crazy fast but ESC started beeping (probably to warn from higher voltage)… Did not try under load.

Question, when you upgraded from 7S to 10S ? How was your topspeed ??? On 7S, I top out at 16 km/h, so I imagine top speed would be 22-22 km/h on 10S, and even 29 km/h on 13S. The HB3GL-A motor is 37.5 Kv in reality (not the 110 kV advertised).

My battery quitted on me after a month. One cell died. So instead of using generic chinese 18650, I used some high power cells (Sony VTC4 and LG-chem HD2C) scavenged from good dyson vacuum battery pack (BMS were faulty but cells were good !). Made a 7S2P pack with twice the capacity. Transplanted BMS and made a custom wood gasket (made waterproof by epoxy coating) so the battery box could accomodate more cells without having to create an entirely new battery box. Initially posted some pics on the Endless-sphere:

Will try to upload a bit more pictures than the ones already on the endless-sphere for you guy who are curious about this board.


Could not post more than ONE picture on this forum as I am a new user, so I posted 93 pictures on the Endeless-Sphere forum instead. Here is the link to these 93 pics!:



yuweng, how fast are you going with 10S ?

This is a killer post thanks. I have a dead one which should be fixable…no lights

Will check using this guide Cheers


Thanks Banjaaxed The lights were not stock though. Got them Koowheel lights on eBay 20 bucks for the set of 4. Only prob is the holding metal brackets tend to snap due to vibrations. Lost on light and retreived a secobd one due to this. In the end i removed them. Will have to find time one day to deseign a more solid bracket. BTW, if your on off switch craps out, i found a much better quality one with the exact same dimensions (original momentary switch not the chinese clone). If you need to buy a replacement like I did, the link is in the endeless sphere thread. I also explained how to reverse direction on a hall sensored motor in this ES thread, as my board was always in reverse mode when powered on… I changed it… Got 200 km on this board now…

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Seldom hangout here nowadays, got an email notification regarding banjaxxed post today then only i realize your post was here earlier :sweat_smile: Nice detail post at Endless-Sphere :+1:

With 10S as you said, it was about 20Km/h but easily wobble at those speed & the wheel will heat up very fast ! Fyi, i got it working up to 20S but on load, it’ll fried those mosfets even though i’ve upgraded to 150 Volts mosfets, i guess those 3 phase motor PWM went crazy with 84 Volts, i lost counts of how many times i’ve repair it :laughing: On these single hub motor esk8, 13S or 16S won’t increase much top speed but the torque is crazy, you’ll need to get some use to it, my advice is better to stay at 10S :sunglasses:

Just in case anyone wants to dis-solder faulty mosfets, you’ll need this type of PTC heater or it won’t come off, got it quite cheap online.

Your board Reintech RT-60D is the same as those generic Chinese esk8, just dis-solder the link/ zero ohm resistor at the PCB label 6S & 7S then your board will become 10S. Reintech is the same company as Microworks, recently bought a 30Km/h EUC motherboard from them, they use to be an R&D board manufacturer but last few years venture into manufacturing & selling esk8 directly.


Thanks Yuweng ! 20S is absolutely crazy !!! You swapped the mosfet !!! I’m in awe seeing how ingenious people like you can be. BTW I’m guessing it would be a good idea to also upgrade the capacitors to higher voltage ones.On the Reintech they are rated 63V (up to 15S !!), but on the cheaper eBay ESC, the caps are typically only rated 50V (max 11S).

I love the small fish plate electric skateboard, It’s a good entry level board for a very very good price so as long as people are a bit handy, It can be repaired easily. My initially had lots of problems, but only because of very minor and easily fixed failures that most people would not even think to inquire about. For example I had to resolder the wires of the switch (they broke with vibrations and left me stranded with no power), had to hot glue one of the small capacitor (false contact with vibrations) and I had to swap the momentary switch providing power to the ESC because It would not work anymore after being exposed to slight/moderate moisture and light dirt. This new R6BBLKBLKFF switch looks exactly the same as the chinese generic cloned swithc (KCD1-110 (On)-Off momentary version) but the genuine R6BBLKBLKFF switch gave me no problem whatsoever : ( this is the “momentary” (On) Off version, carefull not to buy the classic rocker switch, which stays is On position after release). My battery also died after around 50 cycles (relatively shallow ones: 100% to 40% on average). So I build this one double the capacity… much much more reliable and long lived!

I’m must say that one day one I upgraded the bearing for Zealous steel ones because the stock one had a lot of friction resistance (would spin one revolution!).

I’m planning to eventually upgrade to 10S. I have an additionnal 6 Sony VTC4 cells (2100 mAh,30A, 23 mOhms DCIR) so I will make a seperate “3S2P Booster battery pack” with it’s own balancing BMS to wire in series with the 7S2P pack I have on… But maybe I will change my mind altoughter and just rebuild a battery with 10S2P and a 10S BMS instead. But I do like the low profile original small battery box… Thanks for all the info on the Reintech / Microworks ESC… I litterally spend days trying to find a replacement spare Reintech ESC (in case I blow up the original ESC by overvolting it too much!!). I could not find it anywhere (tried eBay, Amazon, Bangood, Aliexpress, Alibaba… Even though I don’t speak or write mandarin or cantonese, I even tried taobao and, using google translante…)… I found some text on the dual hub version of this ESC and tried to seach for it (used a online chinese caracter recognition website, drawing each stroke of the caracters…)… Came up with this from one picture, I saw some chinese text I was able to translate myself: s-l16002

深圳 瑞 引 科技 双 驱 遥控 滑板 控制 器

型号 : RT-60C3

输入电压 : DC24-36V

匹配电机 : 法拉迪

Shēnzhèn ruì yǐn kējì shuāng qū yáokòng huábǎn kòngzhì qì

Xínghào : RT-60C3

Shūrù diànyā : DC24-36V

Pǐpèi diànjī : Fǎlā dí

ShenZen Technology Dual Drive Remote Control skateboard controller

Model No : RT-60C3

Input voltage : DC24-36V

Matching Motor: Fǎlā dí

So I searched the web for a single hub ESC with similar chinese caracters: “深圳 瑞 引 科技 单 驱 遥控 滑板 控制器” and some other combinations of characters. No luck. I could not find any spare replacement controller that could fit in the original battery box. The original Reintech RT-60D V 1.1 ESC has dimensions of 55 x 75 mm… The original battery box has a compartiment for ESC which can accomodate an ESC with maximal dimensions of 77 x 75 mm. But no ESC on the market is small enough to fit. Except the Reintech RT-60D i think.

I did find an interesting ESC that I could pair up with an upgraded RC6 type Remote… Here: But it seems like it’s only available in china. This one is not currently available on the market for some reason… at least not the single hub version… Tough to find stuff for this board, but I love it, the size and weight makes it very practicle even for the slow speed, but I would be more than happy with 20 km/h…! The replacement ESC tah would fit and that has the RC6 remote would be this one:ESC

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I also looked up the motor. Was able to buy a spare on eBay for around 50 USD… The PU sleeve is starting to get quite beaten up. Also bought a replacement set of trucks (exactly as the original) in case it breaks (cheap metal cast ?), I will have replacement to mount the motor on.

So info I found on the motor:

Motor : Modèle HB3GL-A

Nominal voltage: 24-48 V

Power: 100-200 W

Net weight: 0.7 kg

Outside diameter: 70mm

Tire width: 52mm

Motor shaft: M12

Number of hall sensors: 3 pcs

No load speed: 900 RPM @ 24V (0.35A); 1350 RPM @ 36V (0.38A); 1800rpm @ 48V (0.42A)

Deduced KV rating: 37.5 RPM/V; (somewhat often advertised as a 110 Kv motor).

Nominal speed: 700-1800 RPM, customizable.

Torque: 3-5 N.m

Expected motor RPM for different Li- ion batteries:

6S Batt: 945 rpm @ max 25.2V - 810 rpm@ nom 21.6V - 675 rpm @ min 18.0V

7S Batt: 1103 rpm @ max 29.4V - 945 rpm@ nom 25.2V - 788 rpm @ min 21.0V

8S Batt: 1260 rpm @ max 33.6V - 1080 rpm@ nom 28.8V - 900 rpm @ min 24.0V

9S Batt: 1103 rpm @ max 29.4V - 1215 rpm@ nom 32.4V - 1013 rpm @ min 27.0V

10S Batt: 1575 rpm @ max 42.0V - 1350 rpm@ nom 36.0V - 1125 rpm @ min 30.0V

11S Batt: 1733 rpm @ max 46.2V - 1485 rpm@ nom 39.6V - 1238 rpm @ min 33.0V

12S Batt: 1890 rpm @ max 50.4V - 1620 rpm@ nom 43.2V - 1350 rpm @ min 36.0V

13S Batt: 2048 rpm @ max 54.6V - 1755 rpm@ nom 46.8V - 1463 rpm @ min 39.0V

14S Batt: 2205 rpm @ max 54.6V - 1890 rpm@ nom 50.4V - 1575 rpm @ min 42.0V

Free air speeds with 70 mm wheels (circumference = 0.220 m): Advertised as 70 mm

6S Batt: 12.5 km/h (max) - 10.7 km/h (nominal) - 8.9 km/h (empty)

7S Batt: 14.5 km/h (max) - 12.5 km/h (nominal) - 10.4 km/h (empty)

8S Batt: 16.6 km/h (max) - 14.3 km/h (nominal) - 11.9 km/h (empty)

9S Batt: 14.5 km/h (max) - 16.0 km/h (nominal) - 13.4 km/h (empty)

10S Batt: 20.8 km/h (max) - 17.8 km/h (nominal) - 14.8 km/h (empty)

11S Batt: 22.9 km/h (max) - 19.6 km/h (nominal) - 16.3 km/h (empty)

12S Batt: 24.9 km/h (max) - 21.4 km/h (nominal) - 17.8 km/h (empty)

13S Batt: 27.0 km/h (max) - 23.2 km/h (nominal) - 19.3 km/h (empty)

14S Batt: 29.1 km/h (max) - 24.9 km/h (nominal) - 20.8 km/h (empty)

Free air speeds with 73 mm wheels (circumference = 0.230 m) – My measured size (using calipers)

6S Batt: 13.0 km/h (max) - 11.1 km/h (nominal) - 9.3 km/h (empty)

7S Batt: 15.2 km/h (max) - 13.0 km/h (nominal) - 10.8 km/h (empty)

8S Batt: 17.3 km/h (max) - 14.9 km/h (nominal) - 12.4 km/h (empty)

9S Batt: 19.5 km/h (max) - 16.7 km/h (nominal) - 13.9 km/h (empty)

10S Batt: 21.7 km/h (max) - 18.6 km/h (nominal) - 15.5 km/h (empty)

11S Batt: 23.8 km/h (max) - 20.4 km/h (nominal) - 17.0 km/h (empty)

12S Batt: 26.0 km/h (max) - 22.3 km/h (nominal) - 18.6 km/h (empty)

13S Batt: 28.2 km/h (max) - 24.1 km/h (nominal) - 20.1 km/h (empty)

14S Batt: 30.3 km/h (max) - 26.0 km/h (nominal) - 21.7 km/h (empty)Motor

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i started off with ebikes, like you, move on to esk8 & nowadays, modding EUCs, its never ending :joy:, i actually learned alot of stuff from endless-sphere’s long time user fechter, my ebikes was running 84Volts SLA battery back then, got a top speed of 70Km/h until the whole axle & mounting screw got spin out as i was not using any torque arm, luckily i didn’t got injured, good times during those good old days :laughing: Still using my ebikes on & off nowadays :sunglasses: In case you are interested… but that will be at another forum


EUC Direct Link

EUCs Direct Link

Back to your case, AFAIK, Reintech/ Microworks only sell to OEMs nowadays, use to see alot of their boards on taobao/ 1688/ ebay but suddenly everything went missing/ disappear. You can actually use any generic boards, it should fit into these generic fish plate. The Reintech or any generic controller is actually quite robust, you don’t need to buy any spare if you’re not modding it. i did order my spare but never really got to use it. ( Warning : it won’t work on 10S on default, you gotta do some micro-soldering on it then only it’ll work & those step down resistors are hot on 10S ! )

As for these single hub motor, these fish plate uses the cheapest of all but again, they are quite robust ! A trick i found to keep the PU from aging is soak a damp cloth around it for awhile after use & it’ll be like new ! i guess these PU needs water :grin:

Having said that, DO NOT USE IT IN THE RAIN or run it on any water surface, the internal of the hub motor WILL RUST even though they said its water resistant ! My friend’s wheel got rusting so bad inside it after a week of not using that it wouldn’t even spin. When i open it up, there are still tons of water inside but anything is repairable :sunglasses:

These fish plate spare parts are actually very cheap on taobao or for that matter of fact, everything is cheap there but sending it to the West is a problem, you’ll need to use taobao agent.


Rusted hub



Found the photos but couldn’t find the one i measured with my el-cheapo RPM meter at 10S was around 3.5K ! But as you guest it, it wouldn’t even pass 20Km/h on load :sweat_smile:


Actual RPM


Whoops, at 10S, it was 2715 :sweat_smile:

Thanks for the update. Good to see some solid RPM measurment. I did not have a tachymeter and based my calculation on speed and on some RPM figures on alibaba. As per your measurment, this motor doesn’t have a Kv of 110 RPM/V as advertised on alibaba… With my figures I calculated around 37.5 RPM/V, But as your tachymeter shows in reality, in free air, it’s more like 75 RPM/V ?

I received the new spare hub motor. Same central stator, but rotor can acommodate replaceble PU. 75 mm PU sleeve. Just can’t find additionnal replacement 75 mm PU sleeve anywhere on alibaba or elsewhere. At the same time I serviced my OEM hub motor. Not much rust in my case. But the rubber o-ring was destroyed. So I put a new one (it’s 13mm OD, 10 mm ID and 1.5 mm cross-section). I also ordered new screws for the hub motor cap, because they are easy to strip… They are 6 x 10 mm M3-0.5 screws with PH1 Philips flat head.

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Previously, i’ve been looking for these fish plate replacement hub too but couldn’t find one that offers replaceable PU, so i didn’t order, AFAIK, only 83mm & 90mm has. do snap some photos & share it here.

i donno if you’re refering to the back of the hub motor, i’ve change mine to SS allen screw for easy tightening instead of tightening with a screw driver :sunglasses: fish%20plate%20hnb

Here is what i mean:IMG_20190411_184801279_HDR IMG_20190411_184914527_HDR IMG_20190411_184812119_HDR IMG_20190411_184634198_HDR IMG_20190411_185058708_HDR IMG_20190411_184729739_HDR IMG_20190411_184818176_HDRIMG_20190411_184428147 IMG_20190411_184449652_HDR IMG_20190411_184358725_HDR IMG_20190411_184852611_HDR IMG_20190411_185011247_HDR

This is 75.0 mm external diameter. Could not find the replacement sleeves for this one. But obviously they exist, since they are removable. Let me know if you ever find some pu sleeves. I’d probably have better luck finding it if i could read some Chinese…