Want decent looking nose bumper for my Longboard Larry chupacabra. I don’t 3D design/print but hope to find something open source to send to one of these online printing services vs. in hiring someone to design/print for me. I’m currently running half inch risers.
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Got any images of stuff similar to what you’re looking for? If it’s simple enough that I can get it done quickly I can model it for you with onshape… I don’t pay for the software because I just use it for personal projects but already have a skateboard riser with LEDs in there I can probably make a derivative part from that with what you want if I know what it is.
thanks for the reply, offer! This community is awesome.
I like the idea of an extended riser of sorts that matches curve of nose. black in color.
The one linked would be too long and not matched to curve.
Gotcha… yeah I’m not sure about importing images for modelling on top of in onshape but will see if it’s a 1 or two step process then making a curve that fits your board and connects the the riser drawing I already have should work fine. Would you want it actually sticking out the front of the board like pictured here? http://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/flatlinecustoms-agent-orange-40-arbor-axis-single-sk3-6374-motor-12s-lipo-4-x-3s-5000mah-vesc/2037/3
^^ check it out it was like a 2 step process to import the image and put it in the sketch, I just drew an extra curve on what I already had setup for my risers. If you want exact width and length on the trucks to match you can plug in the params or let me know and I can fix the onshape file and get you a STL you can send to a printer.
if you’re using the image to design in onshape here’s one with a dark edge that’s more accurate. the other is my idea of the bumper.
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Cool can you get the measurements for the base plate width and length too what I have in there is a bit over sized I think
Measurements in inches in the diagram in case it seemed strange.
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3&1/16" x 2&3/16"
old school
diy-electric-skateboard-kits-parts/torqueboards-218mm-trucks/
Ignore the first part of what I said those were used for adjusting the base plate… anyhow double check the drawing dimensions if you can… I’ll add dimension numbers to the drawing too.
You can see tabs at the bottom of the screen there to switch between different parts designed in this “document” (collection of stuff to make a model or models). The part studio 2 has the actual 3D model in it, can right click and hold to rotate. I have it at .5 in extrusion to make it thick also let me know if you want me to keep the edges square on the back or give them a fillet (curved edge).
With the drawing view it’s 1:1 scale so if you print that should be able to lay it on the real parts and see if dimensions look okay or not.
Added dimensions to the drawing let me know if anything looks out of wack
This stuff is so cool. I think it may need more bumper maybe? will there be enough length from the edge of the base plate out towards the nose to project beyond the deck?
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which edges? whatever you think looks best / most functional.
Was thinking the back two, basically when looking from the top down view of the drawing the ones on the right. Printing with curved edges helps with 3D prints to some degree cause if the material you’re printing with warps the curve helps to minimize the warpage (square corners are the worst). So if you print it how it goes on the board it’s good if the profile from that direction (top down or bottom up) doesn’t have any square edges (also just figure it will look nicer).
Regarding how much it sticks out the front I pretty much matched it up based on your drawing… I couldn’t get the curve right at first it kept fighting me but just figured that out so I extended it out a bit too take a look again.
Also best to print this top down because the layers will be stacked in the direction it gets pressure down on it not in a direction they can get torn apart easily. I’ve been using ones made of ABS that are hollow without a problem so should be pretty good.
looks fantastic. thanks so much. How do you recommend I get this bad boy to my front door? e.g. printing service, material, etc. Looks like I need to create an onshape account to download the file?
regarding the edges - whatever you think is best
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I’d offer to do the print and send it to you for the cost but my printer is going to be hard at work on a new case for probably the next couple of days (I’m printing it with Nylon 645 it’s big and the Nylon has to be printed slow so going to take a while), been testing and tweaking my other model between making updates to yours 
I’d recommend going to 3dhubs.com and seeing what the prices are there, or if you’re in the US and in a city I know some city public libraries have free 3D printer access to the public (not sure about how long they will let you print or rules and all though so you’d have to check that out). One other option is maker spaces if there’s one around you they surely have some 3d printers and material you could use but again would have to call around locally to see what’s available.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B933x190d2Rkb0dOUXpfdHF1ckk/view?usp=sharing
^^ can get the STL file there I added those curves and exported it… would suggest still signing up for onshape and make your own copy of the onshape document I linked. Since I have a free account all my models are open to the public for copying, if you plan to make commercial models or make money off of it just sign up for a legit account and can have private models.
Regarding materials too I think ABS will be fine, don’t use PLA that is too brittle and will crack as risers (I tried) ABS at 25-50% infill should be good (determines how much empty air vs actual material). If you go with Nylon it will be more expensive but you can probably reduce the infill to something like 10% and various Nylon’s or TPU have different hardness with shore values just like skate wheels so you could go that route and they’ll be basically “indestructible” but more expensive.
Last edit I think… with OnShape I just taught myself how to use it over the course of a couple of days, had background in 3D modeling in Blender but that is very hard to use for any models you need to tweak, OnShape has been great so far just watched a slew of the tutorials here: https://www.onshape.com/videos/topic/tutorials until I had the gist of how to do some things and just go search for the task and onshape and usually get a quick answer from their forums or videos. I don’t work for them but they should have me on the payroll.
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I’m trying to order through 3dhubs but I’m not prompted to input % fill when order. Should I just leave the printer a note or is it assumed to fill in solid?
You’re going to want at least 50% for ABS or PETG. My 75% PLA parts still squish like bread under the trucks. But don’t assume that their not just going to reduce the infill to their liking to get the parts out faster.
K so I’ll say minimum 75%?