Custom Evolve Carbon GT(10S5p 30Q)(Dual FocBox)(Bluetooth BMS)

Hey everyone. This will be my first “build log” here. I figured this would probably be the best place to introduce myself. My name is Dylan, I’m 25 years old and currently reside in Northern California. I’m a Mercedes Benz mechanic by trade(going on 6 years now). I’m certified to work on multiple Hyrbid/full electric models that we sell(pretty recently, MB is just dipping their toe in the electrical game at this point).I am by no means an electrical engineer, but I like to think that my experience gives me a small leg up in this hobby I have taken on. Iv’e been lurking around here for the better part of the last year posting in other sections, and just soaking up info. Anyway, enough about me and onto the battery build.

I have estimated that I have over 6,000 miles on this CGT battery, and at almost 400 charge cycles this battery has seen its better days. It was a junker battery to begin with, and the range was diminishing with every ride. I decided it was time to build a new pack, and I wanted more range than before for sure. I really want to keep the remote/esc setup because I don’t wanna just throw it away and have to buy two vescs(I’ll save that for my custom build). To do this, all I have to do is keep the evolve bms and wire it up to my new pack.

When all is said and done I should have a 10s5p 15AH pack :smiley:

I started by ordering 60 of these Samsung 30Q batteries(50 for the build, and 10 extra for when I inevitably mess something up):

And then I ordered the Sunkko 709a(fyi i wish i bought the arduino kit instead, but this did the job fine):

Next I opened up the evolve and took out the old junker battery:

Then It was time to inspect this bad boy(evolve bms), and trace down each and every BMS wire. It actually wasn’t too hard at all.

The balance lead closest to the RED wire(the blue one closest to the red wire on the balanace lead connector) is 1S, then just go down the line from there all the way up to 9s.


Test fitting the cells:

At this point, I found out that 50 cells and the evolve bms just wont fit very well in this compartment. I didn’t want to smash it all in there and risk damage. So I made the decision to relocate the Evolve BMS to the top of the rear truck area. I figured I never use that area on the drop through deck anyway. I even though about putting in an extra 10 cells there too… but I just feel like it will be too bulky. That led me to create this BMS case with my 3d printer. I still might make some revisions to this bms case, when I’m all done I’ll upload the files. Printr: printrbot simple metal with DIY heat bed installed. More on this later…

Time to start spot welding some cells! I made 10 packs of 5 parallel cells. My plan is to essentially make two 18v packs and connect them in series.

After spot welding it all together I decided I would carefully try to see if it would all fit into the compartment. This is where I ran into some issues. The first thing I want to talk about: BEWARE, THE DECK HAS CONTINUITY! I set down half the pack in there and smelled something burning. My pack was shorting… I quickly got it out of the deck, and only a small burn mark remains inside of the enclosure area, no serious damage.

At first, I thought that some of the nickel strip had shorted out something out on the positive end of some of the cells. I had some issues early on with some of the strips bending due to mis alignment and then shorting(which is why I will ALWAYS recommend using those cardboard protector ring caps[ill post a link]).

Long story short after some investigating I had a thought: “they make motor brushes out of carbon… maybe the deck combined with my non insulated pack caused it to short”. Grabbed my multi meter, and sure enough there is continuity in multiple places(not everywhere). So… anyway, for anyone doing this beware of that. I instantly thought of the board that lit on fire on the evolve forums. tldr: be carful.

Luckily, the extent of the damage was only about 3-4 cells due to the nickel strip acting like a fuse. I used my 10 extra cells to swap out any that were even near the short. Here’s the damage(looks worse than it really was):

After that turn of events , I got everything cleaned up and carried on. I double insulated EVERYTHING. I soldered in all my balance leads, and labeled them accordingly, connected the two in series at the back end. Then, It was time for a test run!:

ALL GOOD :slight_smile: Then it was shrink wrap time(back ones are exposed because I had to make the series connection).

Then I added some duct tape for support.

AAAANDDDDDD after all the shrink wrap and tape: NO FIT :frowning: . I’ll have to relocate the balacing wires to the middle and hopefully that’s all the clearance I need. It’s super close, but I dont want to force it.

that’s pretty much as far as i’ve gotten thus far. I except to finish some time in the next few days or so. I still have to:

Extend the battery switch, and UART cables to reach my new BMS location and clean up some of the wiring and such. If you’ve made it this far THANKS FOR READING. I’ll update this post as often as I can.


Awesome, I am probably 75% down the CGT battery degrade scale from you so interested to see how this goes!

Thanks man! Check back here in about 30 minutes I’ll have a lot more pics up

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As of now I finally got all the pics uploaded! Woop woop! I’ll keep everyone updated as i go along here.


U should get some insane range with this pack. Nice work, clever way of relocating bms, i think some other people just extended enclosure but that requires work with plastic

Took off the blue shrink wrap and all the tape. Cleaned everything up. rerouted the bms leads to the top. And got everything wrapped in clear shrink wrap(satisfying :D) and it FINALLY FITS! WOOO. Man it’s tight in there…

Also 3d printed these spacers to go in between the deck and the battery on the sides, and in between both packs. Printed them in 1mm first, and had to go down to 0.50 and even 0.35mm in some places to make them fit. The extra insulation makes me feel a lot better though.


nice job. killer range now. does the lid fit smoothly ?

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Took it for a test ride just now! Finished at 3am tonight and couldn’t resist going out.

I put on the 200kv racerstar motors. WOW. It’s like a whole new board. The range is insane. Voltage sag is almost non existent. I am running the “AT” wheels and still getting awesome range. I am hitting 28 mph with the AT setup. Rode 10 miles and was still at 38V after the ride.

I have to say, fitting everything in the deck was a HUGE task. Even after moving the BMS its a tight fit.

Will report back tomorrow with extended ride info, and some more pictures.


It’s super tight but its fits without crushing anything! I only have 1 test ride to compare with, but the range is GREATLY improved.

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cool work man

with this new battery pack, the total weight of the skate is changed?

Thanks brotha.

Yea. I haven’t weighed the whole deck yet. But I would say it feels about a pound or two heavier. Not much.

about 35 miles on the new battery and it feels GREAT!

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Where in NorCal are you? I live in Quincy.

About 60 miles north of San Francisco. Sonoma County, Quincy is a tiny little town! A friend of mine went to school down there. He said there’s 1 stop light there haha.

Wires wrapped.


We’ve grown! there are two stop lights now lol :stuck_out_tongue:

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35miles with AT wheels sounds incredible :heart_eyes:

Not in 1 ride lol. I am getting about 20 miles per ride so far. I hammer the throttle MOST of the time :p. But I am getting up to 29-30 MPH(according to the evolve remote) with the new 200kv motors :smiley:


Battery today after my ride in to work :slight_smile:

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Putting the power switch on top of the back trucks could help somewhat mitigate the evolve remote disconnection issues. If it disconnected, you could step on the switch twice to get it to reconnect … instead of having to reach under the board which basically you have to already be stopped to do