DIY Trigger Style Remote with Telemetry - Complete Guide

Incomplete kits… Simply because of what you said… some items take more than a month to reach me…

Sorry a bit caught up with the flu and work, need some time to get things sorted.

If I may ask, what bits are you missing? Or am I better off waiting for a full kit if you are going to sell them?

Magnets and springs take an eternity to reach me. More than a month still nothing.

Some other parts here and there I need to check, also my PCB i have in stock is the older design. EasyEDA doubled their prices so I am very hesitant to order more of which I don’t need any.

Okay, I’ve run into some problems. I won’t sell any kits until I find good solid solutions for them.

  1. I had instances of my board losing power going very slowly uphill, at first I thought maybe it was a amp draw issue but I noticed last night that for some weird reason, the remote disconnects when I go very slowly uphill (going fast is not an issue). So as it stalls along the way up, the remote disconnects and I lose all control until a few seconds later when it comes back.

Honestly I have absolutely no idea what is going on with this. Anyone?

  1. After that episode, thinking that I need more shielding, I opened up the transmitter only to have my stupidity fry the lipo charger. So I desoldered and replaced the entire lower PCB and its components and now my transmitter won’t fire up without a hard reset or flipping the switch quickly between on and off and back on.

Again, totally confused why this is happening. USB power works fine. Current possible solution is to add a cap between the reset and GND pins.

Anyone Arduino masters can clue me in on what’s happening?

I have exactly the same thing on my receiver side, it’s a weird problem. Luckily I’m powering my remote from usb socket so no problem there. Did you try the possible capacitor solution yet?

The hill climb drop out is just due to voltage sag issues on the rx side under load. In the rc world, we call them brownouts. the fix is a capacitor to help stabilize voltage on the 5v rx input. image

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For the second issue, i think its a step up voltage reg issue. i.e you flip the switch and the step up reg ramps to the full 5v and the Arduino is under voltage on boot. but a quick reset the reg is already up to 5v (caps charged) so the audio boots correct. if you have a O-scope you can check this.

HMMMmmmm… yes I know of brownouts in RC.

Okay I will try adding a huge cap on the 5V and see what happens. There is already an LC filter but I think that just smooths the noise rather than store voltage for brownouts.

As for the second issue, I was considering swapping to a pololu setup (previous DIY remote used it without any issues), but that means I need to re-do the PCB and desolder the two halves. Another friend of mine suggested that the arduino might be going into bootloader mode for some reason on startup.

I haven’t tried the cap on reset pin trick yet, will report back when I have done so.

If your having issues on the receiver side with 5v line coming from the vesc… Then your drv is probably about to die as the DRV is the output of the 5v buck.

So a 10v 100uF cap between reset and ground pins did the trick of needing a hard reset to boot.

Now to fix the brownout issue…

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IT WORKED!!!

I added a 1000uF cap to the output of the LC filter and it was smooth sailing from there for a test 15km ride I just did. Even managed to start on a slope without any issues.

YAY! All issues resolved!! (For now)

One more thing to note, I realised it’s not enough to just wrap the NRF module in copper tape, I needed to tape the entire bottom PCB covering the NRF module. Again no idea why this is required but it made the difference between no connection and a solid connection…

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im glad the issue was resolved. did you put the cap after LC filter? to be clear 5v-- LC-- cap–arduino?

Yes cap after LC filter

going to try it on receiver side but need a cap first :slight_smile:

Awsome, now i need to build one i have everthing but the dang hall sensor… not finding them on a fast shiping option only slow boat option 60 days etc does anyone know if a difrent p/n will work?

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Ordered PCBs from easyEDA, used DHL express all was 13 euros in total shipping to EU

Oh? How is it so cheap?

I think any 5v hall sensor will work. You can try other options other than aliexpress

i have no idea is it supposed to be more expensive? they are using jlcpcb.com for the orders and thats the price for 5 each total of 15 pcbs.

Last time I checked the price ballooned after they upgraded their website. Maybe they corrected it.