Hi, I´m selling a full kit to build the remote. I would offer the following parts: 2 * magnets (5mm) Boost converter Lipo charger 3.7V battery OLED display 2 * Arduino Nano 2 * nRF24L01 (one already soldered) Hall sensor Micro USB Power switch Spring Limit switch all 3D printed Parts
Price: 40€ plus shipping
If anyone is interested just send me a PM 
Just wired up my micro LC filter annnndddd it didn’t work. Maybe a bigger one is necessary? these micro ones are rated for 16V1A, but I guess that’s not enough. I tried it both by itself and with my 220uF capacitor wried before it. Maybe the cap needs to come AFTER the LC filter? idk.
EDIT: Tried putting the cap on the output of the LC filter too. Still didn’t fix the issue. Honestly I’m not sure what else to try
Did you try connecting directly to 5v line without lc filter or a cap? See if it works that way at least you will know if they have any effect or not. Last resort would be connecting via usb socket. When I get home I ll try it. Taking the insulation off around the plug makes it super small and viable.
I haven’t tried that yet because I was under the assumption the cap was recommended since it just doesn’t work without it?
It was added to eliminate signal issues. It should work without a cap
If it’s not working with a cap to stabilize it, I doubt it’ll work without too 
EDIT, is there maybe a VESC related setting that could be causing an issue somewhere?
Post #55 explains it. Assuming it is only for more stable connection it should at least work without it. Because in our situation arduino just plays dead. That’s whole another problem.
Playing dead is a good way to put it lol yeah running it with nothing didn’t fix it either. surprise surprise.
Lol well usb power is the only thing left to try 
How would I even do that? I’m gonna try pulling VCC from UART next bc why not
Checking in case has even had the same problem.
Got 3 OLED’s for this, two out of the three can’t make them work.
Tried all found codes and example and nothing.
Using eh arduino i2c scanner for both’s he find them at their address 0x03c
but they never work. 
Anyone had similar problem?
I had an OLED inexplicably die. Apparently they’re just really sensitive
I’ve used the 168x64 for other projects and they can take some abuse. But seems like that is the answer… those things just go bad quite easily.
So I spliced the power lead to just behind the micro USB port to feed it power there, and still doesn’t boot up properly. I tried it with power from both PPM and UART. I’m at a lost rn. I don’t understand why it won’t start up properly
Damn I was hoping for usb to solve this issue 
Take a look at here, seems like they have the same problem https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=256771.0
Looks like post #37 has a solution: https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=256771.msg2359179#msg2359179
a 10uF cap and 470 ohm resistor in series form the reset pin to ground
Fingers crossed for the method
damn, the electrical engineering parts room just closed I’ll have to wait till tomorrow to buy those parts to try it