I was, what are y’all looking for?
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@drangboards it’s great to see yet another innovative company on here! After I finish my first esk8 build using a traditional longboard, I want to build another more nimble esk8 with a smaller kick tail deck. You have some big competition with jet boards and the Haya deck, but I would pay good money if you offered a 35-36” kick tail deck that had a built in enclosure and was made out of a combo of wood and carbon fiber.
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Do you have a 3d model of a low angle baseplate? I want this SK board to have between a 15 and 25° angle.
Can do my man. I think the grail for this approach is to laminate composite fibers on the top, then route the bottom, and then vacuum bag composite down onto the bottom to keep strength as high as possible. That will be just a bit down the road as I still need to buy vacuum bagging materials, and put together a frame I have for two sided vacuum bag.
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I don’t my friend, sorry.
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If you used enough composite on the lower layers, it may offer enough strength in the 3 channels here:
So maybe like 14 layers {top to bottom}: carbon, maple, carbon, carbon, maple, maple, maple, maple, maple, maple, maple, maple, maple, maple, maple, carbon, carbon, maple, carbon, carbon, carbon, maple
That would probably be just as strong as vacuum-forming composite on the bottom, but be much cheaper to produce. As long as you focused a lot of composite into the lower part (closer to the ground) of the deck that isn’t cut away.
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Longer decks definitely need more thickness, but I am still skeptical that it’s going to take that many plies to get the job done.
BTW Here’s me on this thread rn
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I suspect that the use of a thick deck is more to help justify the deep cut out to help conceal batteries as much as possible.
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Yeah. Adding a CF or FG layer on top after the routes are complete would be enough to eliminate a ply or 2 methinks.
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That’s great. I really wanna get my hands on one of these decks. I’ve been waiting for something like this.
Same here, although I actually like option #1. I’ll have to explore the options in the near future.
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It’s not that it takes that many plies to get the job done, it’s that a battery is like 22mm thick and so it’s ideal if the deck is also 
Adding CF on the top does like ten times less structurally than adding it on the bottom. The top layer is under compression and the bottom layer is under tension – carbon fiber is only strong against tension.
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I’d add that putting carbon on top and bottom does more than either top or bottom. They work together.
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I just think that adding a lot of it in the lower layers, even ones that will be partially cut away, will strengthen it greatly and reduce the need for vacuum-forming the bottom which will add so much cost.
I think concentrating the composite in the upper layers is a mistake that can be avoided 
It should be mostly in the lower layers, with some in the top
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If you send a deck to @psychotiller he can probably do a enclosure that is fitted to the deck he might actually have one already.
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The second deck looks like a longer version of the deck you built me.
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It is very similar to the deck we built you adam, a bit longer, a bit more concave, which I’m beginning to wonder about, and a bit of rocker, with a lower angle kick which has a longer transition arc.
I think adding the bottom carbon, and then routing after that would still be a fine idea, and the production time would be reduced by about 30 minutes tops. But I repeat. One layer of carbon whether on the bottom or the top isn’t going to do nearly as much as it would no both top and bottom. What carbon on the top of a deck does which is something not many eskaters have talked about is torsion. Less torsion equals fewer lives lost.
Side note everyone, specifically Raptor 2 owners. There may be something in the works. His molds work great with our molds, and we are planning on building a raptor deck some time between now and after the new year. I want to do all of these projects, so I’m not shutting the lights on any of the others, including the Nelson Longboards resurrection, and any other DIY board.
I am still endeavoring to get you guys a shop tour, and also a post with images of all the mold files we have CNC fixtures for, which can be eskate modded easily.
Stay tuned in and wait for the drop. Feel free to post here any questions about your project. I tend to prefer posts here to DMs in many cases.
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My only concern to adding carbon top and bottom is vibration…I had a Raptor 1 (all carbon) and while it was a fun board in many ways, it vibrated like crazy. Not a big deal if you’re running a cutout deck with pneumatic wheels or 97mm+ abec wheels, but on top mount kicktail decks which generally run 90mm or smaller wheels the wood decks dampen vibration way better.
Also, carbon layers top and bottom with carbon enclosures could create signal issue for the remote.
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This is a good point. One more reason for all the carbon to be in the bottom layers so it gets removed where the holes are routed
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