Okay. 15mm is it then. Have you ever taken your 107’s offroad to see how they would hold up?
One more thing, would you recommend or did you pre-chunk the 107’s? Will it help lengthen the lifespan of the wheels?
You don’t want your wheels chunked lol. Chunking = bad. @ryanflick
I have had one of my wheels start to chunk, but I regularly super glue my cuts to keep them from chunking. Like below, the white is super glue
There are seval specs of white in this picture, as well as several new cuts that need glued. My first set, I didn’t super glue regularly, and they chunked to the point of not ridable.
As far as breaking in, with regular street riding, it takes about 75 miles to skate off the outer layer for maximum grip, before that they are slippery as shit.
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Thanks for the tip. Check out this build:
He “pre-chunked” the wheels. I’m not sure if that is good advice or not.
That was sarcasm…
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Oh, I get lol. He was able to mount his 6374’s underneath the board with 107’s.
So have I… And many others. 
But mounting underneath on a drop through deck with the trucks dropped through and not top mounted is near impossible. Which is why you will see alot of top mount, or Top mount drop deck configs 
See(same deck as your post - Evo) on belt or gear drives, top mounted.
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And that friction is partly a result of how loose or tight you keep your belts and all the things that increase drag…
With a bit tighter belt tension, letting go of the throttle nearly threw me off at first. Having belts looser made me almost not feel any slow-down-kick when letting go of the throttle…
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Another reason why 20mm belts loose as a goose is 
metroboard pulleys 4tw
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Metroboard offers a “college student discount” which gives you $50 off the pricing “above”. “Pricing above” is $30 for their pulleys. lol
I kinda like that deal.
Money, come to daddy!
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This was my first build, and I was just really impatient to ride. Pre-chunking the wheels worked fine, though as mentioned on the thread a lathe will do the job much better. Since then I used a machine to shave them down and they work wonderfully. Though slightly triggers me that I didn’t wait and do it properly. Meh. Feels like a rough draft.
Also 12mm belts slip a ton unfortunately, at least while braking. The torque burned off the teeth on one of the belts that I have. Definitely get 20mm belts.
I’ve got the Metroboards pulleys on my list that I’ll order with parts for my next build / modifications for current build. And an @Eboosted enclosure for my evo.
Loved the aesthetics of @Deckoz evo. Thinking I’d like to grab the 36" falcon version of the evo, build my own battery / mold enclosure. Going to try to build something that will allow me to swap batteries out easily. Perhaps slide rails of sorts.
What the hell are y’all talking about?
As far as me, and what I think @b264 sarcastically said was that it looked like your wheels were chunked before the build, and you tried to smooth them out.
Please no one actually chunk your wheels on purpose, you loose contact patch and there is no point. That I can see. I really have no idea what if anything you we’re trying to achieve…
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You pre-chunked your wheels 
What is that? 
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I don’t know if anyone has suggested this, but stock bushings on 218 are meh… I got speed wobbles on a single 6374 running at 10s5p… I swapped my bushings and split (wedged and de-wedged) my trucks and it’s soooooo much more stable now, I can feel wobbles when I start to get to 25mph ish, but they quickly stop (I attribute that to my bushings as they are WFB from riptide, also for perspective I’m 215lbs and run a 93a and 95.5a ones a chubby the other is a fat cone)
I can turn great now and overall a solid build
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Also for u guys that see these are mounted on the front of a skateboard, yea it is this was for a test to see how it runs… I’m swapping it rn back to my longboard
Pre-build I had it suggested that in order to put 107mm wheels on the TB mounts to shave the wheels. So i used a goddamn razor blade and shaved off the edges.
You commented on my build post at the time, I actually thought you were endorsing it. I was looking at your evo build today and noticed you did not do that.
Lmao. It worked. About 3mm of contact patch lost. ¯_(ツ)_/¯
But yes. Don’t do that
Are you running your chubby (eliminator/stim) bushing roadside and your cone boardside?
Normally the chubby is run boardside so the extra meat carries your weight, unless you are using it to limit wheelbite?
You might find it more stable the other way around?
Yea @Cobber I know how it’s ran traditionally but idk why this feels more natural to me… I put them the correct way during initial setup and something felt off, swapped them and yea…
For the sake of argument… But not specifically chunking (that sounds like a retarded move… Whyyy?) … It does make sense to shave down the edges of your wheels depending on the feel you are going for.
Rounding out hard edges for more predictable release in drifts for example. Remember the old blue kryptos? Those had like a 35mm contact, fairly round edges, offset core, and would break free / drift amazingly. Reflex is it’s own beast and doesn’t drift well… But I’d be interested to hear from someone who may have shaped their superflys to have smaller contact / rounded edges just for curiosities sake.
As above, narrowing your contact patch as well for better drifts…
And also, pre-worn contact patches for 0 break in… The wheels just drift the best they will.
I guess this all means better drifting/sliding, but also you get the most predictable grip with pre-worn / worn in wheels. All somewhat related to chunking your wheels on purpose…??? lol.
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