E-MTB Drive Gear with Spur Gears "Directdrive"

Thanks for breaking it all down. I’ll be looking forward to how things work out on this set up.

Yeah back from some testruns today :yum:

Heavy but scary powerfull descibes good i guess…

4WD drives totally different from 2WD, have to get on with it more.

Some video footage from today :

Hang Loose Jenso

13 Likes

Great! :heart_eyes:

Do you feel that the gain of traction worths the gain of weight?

I’m very impressed by all your stuff!

1 Like

Dam things looks scary, respect the board.

Great work man!

1 Like

Holy cow, wow, that looks like a lot of fun.

With the front wheels being driven, the front wheels themselves acts as a gyroscope I assume, possibly reducing, perhaps even eliminating speed wobbles?

1 Like

You are right:

  • Board feels more stable at higher speeds
  • higher curve speed (feeled not meassured)
  • harder to control drift … by pulling the trigger in corner the rear dont break out so easy but board gets faster… so it feels like “under control”

will get some more runs tomorrow on gravel also, i love this drifting stuff and hoping for nice new experience with quaddrive.

Braking with this 4WD is like throwing an anchor :sunglasses: have to say that you cant adjust the brake strength with the Roxxy, otherwise i would reduce the amount for the front motors. If you dont be carefully you do stoppies on demand !

Hard to tell right now, depends on what you wanna do i guess. For real offroad use in muddy conditions its really worth the wheight. But not for jumping or freestyle stuff.

Excellent work! So clean looking. That looks like a blast. I can only imagine what that AWD must ride like and how planted it must feel. I’d love to have a board that could handle like my AWD Subaru. And btw, what an awesome workshop!

Building and riding e-mtb’s every day. You’re living the dream, my man. :punch:

4 Likes

Take my money!!!

1 Like

Thanks mate, sounds too good to be true (-; unfortunaly i got also a 9to5 job by a company … but E-toxx is my passion :heart_eyes:

I will … need some more testing on this stuff.

Have had a nice 15km tour through the woods this morning, awesome sunny autum weather.

Put a big 10S4P batterie on the board and take it out.

This are about 800 Wh, heavy stuff but for touring no big issue.

Pictures from charger after refilling the batteries, one of the screens is empty because i push the enter button before the camera clicks (-; was in similar range the the other 3 screens

So if you say average consum of each pack was 3300mAh in total its 13200mAh on 10S. This are 488 Wh for a 15km offroad ride with a average speed of 17,7kmh. So 32 Wh per km for this 4WD Board on 10S for touring.

cheers Jenso

10 Likes

I’m glad you mentioned your WH consumtion!

Actually, compared to you my single drive 192kv 6s 4.33 gear ratio 9inch wheel machine ''eats

quite a lot, so yours is not bad at all in terms of WH consumed (considering the ‘‘godly’’ 4wd drive. :smiley: )

Mine eats about 19-20wh per km. I assume the big wheels and the big surface area gives a bit of friction to overcome…

though, second option is that the tires at not inflated fully, I ride them at about 2 atm, which is 2/3 from the maximum (3 atm max)

Im not sure how much battery is taken into consideration and is it possible to consume more Wh because of battery. Im running at about 10-20 Amps on average, so that is far from my maximum of about 80A (with 40 Amp theoretical buffer).

Anyways, I think you should be building proffesional high end e-skateboards (including trampas, of course)…

(this is a as side comment to your reply about 9-5 job you have at the moment :wink: )

1 Like

When I saw this built I instantly had 2 thoughts…

  1. HOLY BUT NUGGETS BATMAN, that is bad ass!
  2. Needs a brush guard, but I’ve been building Jeeps for 20 years, so.
2 Likes

what do you call a ‘‘brush’’ guard?

… I actually think about installing fenders for mine! Riding in wet time is just horrible… water splashes everywhere and shoes are wet in no time… :smiley:

Something like that, around the front of the board giving some protection to the motors but still allowing airflow. And would look awesome :slight_smile:

Mud guard or splash guard. I was thinking the same thing for the longest time. Hope u come up with something good!

1 Like

Are you also riding a mountainboard? Yeah with ‘‘fenders’’ I meant mud / splash guard… did not know the correct word for it!

As of right now… I imagine something you can attach to the axles… then it has to turn out something similar like these race cars have:


Would make an emtb in one great solution for all weather types! (including the @barajabali made chains for the tires = winter riding :smiley: )

1 Like

Both mountain board and regular. It’s hard to have room on the hanger with mounts and belts.

Agree. The ‘‘motor wheel/s’’ would be the most difficult to make the mud/splash guard for! Though, I think it is doable, you just need some sort of attachment for the motor plate… it would require a different mounting perhaps, compared to the ‘‘non-motorized’’ wheels.

I’m riding a street board, want to build a mountain board eventually but that is a pretty expensive project. I just saw the motors exposed.at the front, if it were mine, I would be worried about limbs and twigs hitting the motor as well as mud and debris getting in the motor.

Some of the older Jeep CJ’s had a bug screen that covered the front grill, to keep stiff iut if the radiator. You might frame up an aluminum grid with rails on the outsid and attach it so that it covered the front electronics.

That way you could block most of the large debris and sticks and twigs and such.

1 Like

Agree… I also like the idea about covering / hiding the motors mostly, only allowing small space / air canals for access to air (vents)

This is probably a no brainer for you, but I was thinking about this last night. If you use 2 pieces of aluminum bar stock, cut in an L shape, you can attach the bottom leg (short leg) of the L to the trucks and that gives you a platform for the horizontal rails. You could use 5/8 or 3/4 aluminum conduit, maybe 2 pieces to create a flat front that with a slight curve to the inside on each end. behind that you could brad or pop rivet a perforated aluminum sheet. You could use a conduit pipe bender to shape the aluminum conduit.