dont know if it was mentioned but solid gears such as these seem to be more efficient than a belt. belts are not so efficient
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Yes of course tire pressure will influence the range alot. But also kind of driving and bodywheight. In generall i think for a 4WD the power consumption is not that bad IMO.
Yeah something to push away anything that comes in the way … they are many nice brushguards outthere for cars but not one fot MTB´s 
I will look for something that acts like a brushguard and maybe will hold the debris away. I´m thinking of something which is modular and can be mounted if wanted/needet.
I think you are right with this! You notice even with the 4WD less drag then with a Belt Setup.
For ‘‘petrol board’’ they have this huge metal bar / handle:
Though, it is on the rear side not on the front 
(Sorry for the unintentional website ad, they have just inserted it in the picture)
hi i am geting al the parts together for my mountainboard but its 5 mm beld drive on a 192kv 12s 2750w setup i don’t know if that wil hold up but is any one selling the cain pullys? 1:6
Hey.
Worked a bit further on new Prototypes this weekend. Parts neddet to get smaller in diameter and if possible a bit lighter.
Waiting on some rawmaterial to get rest of parts ready (-; Cheers Jenso
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Rest of Rawmaterial comes in, so here are some of the missing parts :
Motormount :
Housing Parts :
Mounted on Trucks:
Motor Guard :
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Awesome work!
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sounds kinda like a dog at some points, i think i’d actually enjoy that
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Really great!
Did you think about a way to use this mount without machining the truck? Maybe most of us won’t be able to perform this operation with precision.
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Hey.
Yes i thought about. Maybe something like Scramboards or Trampaboards uses to mount their Parts on Trucks.
Actually it would complicate things a bit with the bearing inside of the Spur, so actually i will use it with the machined Trucks.
Thinking of just selling it with a machined Truck includet, Vertigo Truck without Baseplate is about 50€.
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Playing around with different angles of the mount to the ground.
On the right its the angle of the Tip about 30degrees, on the left its raised above 15degrees more.
I like the lifted one more because the motors move away from ground and are better protected behind the axle. Will have to remove one of the Motorprotection braces to get enough clearence to the Truck when it tilts. But this one is not needet IMO.
Its amazing how compact this drivetrain is :
Not much bigger then the wheel :
Done some testruns yesterday, will try to upload some video footage later.
12S on 200KV motors geared 5:1 will give you a Vmax of 65kmh.
Faster then needet but lots of Fun 
11 Likes
man, thats really super compact 
would be awewsome to have it so far in that you cannot even hit the mount or motors when you run the board straight into a wall! maybe with a smaller drive gear? could use a lot lower KV motors or adjust battery voltage instead to get the desired top speed / torque!
if you like it and it holds up, I might build up another trampa in spring - this capsuled spur gear stuff just looks perfect for the dirt cause! and generally tbh!
do you think the cage is actually doing something to protect the motors? it looks fragile somehow - if one of the pipes gets hit, i Imagine it just bends and the carbon breaks. think I would like the mount system more without the cage, cause it would be even more compacts. or did you plan to connect the 2 truck mounts in the final version at these points?
This looks absolutely badassss WOW. I might either upgrade to this set up in the future or…perhaps a 2nd Trampa build one day.
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Really nice! 
Two little questions :
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Do you think the spur gear system is the ultimate transmission way for e-mtbds?
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Are you giving up the carbon horizontal braces? Il always thought it was a great feature compared to the other mount system I tested.
Regards.
It would be possible to go with a smaller drivegear, they is some place left between the Truck and the Motor
The market for low KV Motors isnt that big, only APS have some with 130KV from what i know, lower i never seen pls correct me if i wrong.
Now with 1:5 you can easy use 168KV or 149KV Turnigy stuff even on 12S… depending on desired Vmax.
This Motor protection parts are optional. Its actually an first idea to give some little protection. Yeah i think if instead of this thin CF Part there is something more massive it maybe takes a hit. The connection points in the Motormount will not make it so much bigger but you have an option to mount something. Maybe a shield to hold debris away or something like the Tubes, btw massive 7075 10mm round material.
Its not easy for me to give up the Braces as i normaly uses them on my other builds! But if i machine the trucks to get the needet alignment for the Spurs and will try to connect both sides it will fails in most cases. The reason is that both sides of the Trampa Truck will not perfectly align to each other.
Its to early to say if this will be the ultimate transmission.
I need some more kilometers on it.
Maybe also some interested people who will test it too
As i mentioned above its not possible IMO to get the best alignment of each truck side and connecting them with horizontal braces 
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This is the prefered mounting position, motors move away from the ground and also gets more behind the trucks.
Changed Motors for next tests to the SK3-6374-149KV , still good for over 50kmH Vmax, but not that aggressive as the 200kv dymonds.
Also added a Spotface with thread on cirumference of the POM part to get easy access for greasing :
Cheers
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This is some next level s*** 
This direct drive solution just begs to be mounted on 4x4 eMTBs.
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Jens Kappel is the fu####in man! Your work is just on a different level. I freakin love it so much I wish I was your neighbor haha. That way I can see this stuff in person haha.
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Thanks mate, its amazing how much traction you get with 4x4, try to go the same path with the 2WD this weekend and stucked so many times in the mud…
Thanks Rob, you are welcome anytimes. Got always some cold beer in the workshop (-;
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Amazing job with the direct drive. How did you remove the sticker on the sk3? Peel it off and then apply isopropyl alcohol to remove the residue? Thanks