EMF Hub motor final sale!

At the end of the day ralphy make something that quite a lot of people could make now or easily make not hard and was expected by a lot that someone els would just design and print their own. If I have Jacobs hubs and I had slippage and someone said they made 3D printed fix I would be marking my own rather pay someone els to print them.

Alrighty good luck I’m gonna go eat some turkey and ride my board.

Just make it work right because what I did works and the last thing id expect is the design being dismissed as a non functional solution.

That’s all I can give for now .

if its that big a deal ill take the file down, thought i was helping those that couldn’t afford to ship internationally, the idea of 3d printing a sleeve might have been your idea but i have looked into injection moulding one for a long time and way before this preorder, the file that i uploaded was the exact file that i was going to have made (probably why it doesn’t fit) and the plastic sleeve was going to be inserted in to the urethane moulds before being pored but the cost of injection moulding did not fit a $299 product.

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also so every one knows i totally support and have supported ralphy’s work in helping solve this issue.

The problem is the solution i was trying to work o to fix this issue was a hard fix that was going to be making new motor cans for every one or tighter urethan and i has samples made and shipped to some members who said they would test them but i have never heard back from them.

during this time i was communicating and had full intention to follow through but i lost the support of my buyers and financially made it impossible for me to produce a fix. at that point it forced me to feel like i had to be silent as my presence was leaving a bad taste in every ones mouth. this is the reason why i stoped my youtube channel, the channel that was all about helping others. i have not advertised the release of my VESC app. to this day i have refunded 95% of all orders relating to those that didn’t receive there motors and even some who did receive there motor.

I hope that we can all move on from this!

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Thanks for clearing that up @jacobbloy. Despite the issues, I’m still glad I was one of the few who purchased and received your motors and could support your efforts in the ESk8 community in some way. My one piece of advice is that if you ever decide to do another project like this, just keep the lines of communication open if something goes wrong and don’t be afraid to enlist the help of the community to find a solution. I think most of us would be happy to help if we could. Which brings me to my next point.

I feel like @ralphy has been very supportive of Jacob, transparent and by far the most actively helpful member when it comes to finding solutions for these hub motors. He also stated that a percentage (15%, I think?) of his sales will go back to Jacob, so I don’t see any reason why there should be any negative feelings towards him.

Also, for the first time, because of @ralphy’s solutions, I am finally able to ride these hubs for more than a mile without any urethane squeaking, slipping or other related issues. So, thank you!! :grinning: :thumbsup: :clap:

Now, I’d like to share my initial results and impressions of @ralphy’s nubs and sleeves. First off, I don’t have access to a 3d printer, so I’m very happy that he is making these parts available to purchase, especially for the very reasonable prices he is asking. The nubs he sent me go in the gaps between the “teeth” on the hub, and are supposed to be applied with super glue, after sanding and prepping the areas. The hubs have a layer of zinc or something that flakes off, even with just tape stuck to them, so this needs to be removed before gluing the nubs on. However, I was impatient to try these and didn’t have the right glue on hand yet, so I used some tape to tape the nubs on to one hub, and it seems to be holding and effective so far.

The other hub motor has one of the sleeves installed along with the nubs, but I was lazy and didn’t glue or even tape the nubs on, so they are kind of free floating and are there mostly to fill in that space between the teeth so the sleeve can’t collapse in the middle. The sleeve is a very tight fit, and perfectly sized and shaped for the hub. Well done @ralphy! I then slid my loosest, squeakiest tire (I have four of them) over the sleeve, VERY tight fit, and reassembled them.

I’ve only ridden my @ralphy modded Jacob hubs for about 10-15 miles so far, due to time constraints, but I’ve been carving hard on them the whole time to see how things hold up. I’m happy to report that the urethane issues seem to be resolved now, and the hubs ride beautifully. Also, note that the setups I am trying are kind of the most hack job, worst case scenario for installing the nubs and sleeves, using tape or no adhesive at all, and seem to be effective as is. I will eventually glue everything down which can only improve things, but for now, I’m gonna see how long this setup lasts, you know, for science. :microscope: Down the line, I’ll probably pick up a pair of the tires with the sleeves already glued on from @ralphy, which is probably how they should have come in the first place.

The last mod to these hubs is my own experiment. I found that after a short time riding, the motors were sounding “crunchy”, so I pulled them apart and found a lot of road debris and small rocks inside of the motors. So, I cleaned them out and made some protective screen covers using what I had on hand. Results are good thus far, and the insides of the hubs are now protected from small rocks, and still run as cool as before.

I am VERY pleased with how things are going now. I’d highly recommend trying these mods if you’re having issues. Any questions, just ask!

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instead of these 3D printed sleeves - can’t we just use shrink tubing? :thinking: Put the nubs there and not even glue them - the shrink tubing should hold them in place and is thinner than the printed walls plus it is always a perfect fit. Anybody tried this - seems so easy and obvious to me right now.

It should work @Maxid give it a try and let us know results.

Will do on Monday.

Maybe even add some spray adhesive to the shrink wrap tubing after it in place so the uthrane sticks to that. And might help a bit more also would allow to come of the metal.

make sure you get the nylon centre tubing. the wheels are actually a little bit bigger then they need to be so adding so thickness will help and if you get a matt shrink tube it might have good friction with the wheel. my only concern is the the shrink tube will not keep its shape through the centre of the grooves so you will still need to put some thing in there. the design that i sent the factory actually never had the gap and i don’t now why they didn’t but it you could drill out the thread in the groove and extend it to do the whole way through, then when you 3d print the spacers you can add a hole in them and actually stew them in place so there is no need for glue.

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Id get the heatshrink that comes with glue, they’re extremly durable!

please can you draw this, I don’t understand it.

Here is the drawing you posted: The threads are too deep in diameter to extend them, the material of the stator would be too thin then or did I get it wrong. Btw. the bumps havn’t R = 4.5 it’s about 2.5mm.

any updates on this @ralphy

It requires a MOQ of 300 units

Arghh, I misunderstood and thought sizes OTHER than 110mm needed 300 MOQ. :frowning:

Same. I thought 110mm was available. :cry:

I will order 2 sets if you can cover the other 298 :joy: lol

I thought the same thing, it appears they have no demand for it so yes they can do it but its not worth it unless they get a big order. Which is scary because you can imagine 150 sets of 110mm wheels slippin!

The problem is the 107mm wheels I had they are thicker so less movement in then urethane so they wouldn’t fit also seemed to have more shrinkage

The concept of heat shrink could work but ultimately it’s a soft rubber that will bend flex and deform around the motor.Bonding heatsink to the urethane is also challenging since both materials are highly flexible. The current urethane has a low glass transition temp and not much mechanical resistance that’s why it expands and slippage occurs. Bonding it to a sleeve that has higher mechanical strength and temp resistance is the best solution so far.