yes battery is at 100% now. original settings was 80 (only full speed), changed down to 40 (battery cuts off) i have since changed it to 60 (battery still cuts off) will make another test with the original 80 but i don’t think it matters.
just switched “motor max” back from 60 to 80 and it’s not shutting off anymore on the desk at least. i will go for a test drive quick to see if i can still accelerate slowly
edit: test ride is over. still cuts off even with the default settings 
what’s really weird is that the board now is completely controllable even with the default 80 settings opposed to always going full throttle like my first ride. i don’t know what to think anymore… it seems it cuts off when LCD shows a bit under 90%… not sure though…
here is a video of todays attempt:
accelerate - power cut - brake - power gain - accelerate - power cut - dead https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BybdY5w-PsmIMHZtMjdqeXEyZ1U/view?usp=sharing
So you’re mnow back to default and it doesn’t cutoff? What is your battery voltage or % now <90% or full? Let us know what happens at 90% with 80 motor max.
I have no idea what’s happening. Maybe @onloop can chime in now that more information is available.
check my edit please, my problem seems weirder then ever…
@Howser, I have some suggested settings for you.
For the braking,I would change the Batt Regen Min from -20 to -40 or possibly -45. Personally I found that -20 was just not enough. Your experience may be different though.
As for the VESC settings, try these (not sure what your current values are, but I would save them).
Min Pulsewidth: 1.02 Max Pulsewidth: 2.1 Deadband: 0.15
Please let me know what you find. I’m still learning. 
Those settings are a bit different to what i got when doing more testing yesterday, on the particular remote i was testing Min 1.19 & max 2.01 was working best, maybe everyones will be a little different. Please, everyone! tune the settings if you haven’t already done it.
ALSO, Contacted the factory about the hand controller firmware to see if there is anything that needs tweaking there.
I spent a few hours yesterday doing more testing, also made some video, just not had time to upload. Tomorrow.
Was also getting inconsistent result using cruise control. Have notified Factory, maybe firmware can fix it.
But was easily able to do sustained, very slow speed laps around carp park 5mph or 10mph easily… The throttle control feels really good. Brake seemed same as normal, strong & responsive.
Also, the GF lids are ordered. maybe dispatch in around 10days.still need confirmation.
PLEASE EVERYONE > UPDATE THE SHEET WITH ANY PROBLEMS OTHERWISE YOU MAY GET MISSED> HERE
Hey,
Currently in talks now with battery factory discussing all these various issues. It was the first time we used the upgraded 50ABMS in space cell. Some of the weird issues may be related to that.
PLEASE BE SURE TO LINK TO YOUR VIDEOS FROM THE FAULT SHEET.
Hey Jason, just curious (I’m working on a theory here): On the remote where those settings worked well, was the “neutral” value approximately 1.6? If not, what was it?
Not sure, will have to check later,
what is the theory?
I’m trying to develop a mathematical understanding of the relationship of the values that produce good results with the remote. The theory is that the neutral value needs to be close to the 50% mark of the overall range. With the numbers you provided, that would mean a neutral value of about 1.6.
The standard pulsewidths for all RC controlled gear using pwm or ppm is a pulse range from 1ms at full reverse to 2ms at full throttle forward. 1.5ms is regarded neutral, which is halfway. Always. Default setting on every hobby esc for car control.
Apparently, due to Chinese quality, the output of each controller varies slightly without possibility of trimming the signal like on a GT2B or other hobby transmitters.
By entering the lower and upper pulse widths measured from your controller into the VESC, you’re allowing it to calculate what the halfway mark (ie neutral) should be.
But if your controller doesn’t send the corresponding “halfway pulse” when the stick is in neutral, you need to start playing around with the high and low pulsewidth settings to find neutral, which will then affect you brakes and acceleration. You cannot change how linear or non-linear the pulses correspond to the joystick input nor which response curve the VESC applies to that input. That can only be changed in the controller and/or VESC firmware.
I’ve plotted the pulsewidth output from the controller against joystick position if anybody’s interesed.
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are you sure you do not loose the signal ? It may give random cut offs does the weird cut offs happen when removing the lid or keeping the remote close to the receiver ? For example when the remote is in my left hand (on the front) I observe random cut offs which i do not have when the remote is in my right hand, ie closer to the receiver … Just in case, you may already tried ?
i have considered that. but i also had signal losses, they are different. when the power cut happens you can actually see the LCD display of the battery counting down from 100% (or whatever the charge is) to 0% and stays at 0% until i off / on the battery again.
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I still say that sounds like voltage sag hitting the LVC, which would mean a battery problem.
My settings after calibration are very close to those that you by @onloop.
Full Brake: 1.19 - 1.20 Full Throttle: 2.01
Center Stick seems to be about 46-47%, not 50%, does this effect me negatively in some way? I haven’t noticed it if it has. On thing I notice is the display kinda sticks for a split second on ramp up to 100% there a few brief pauses with the most aggressive one being at about 71%. Anyone else notice such a thing?
@Xusia have you seen anything about what we might need to with a Raptor Dual and applying changes to the VESCs that might differ from a Raptor mono? Specifically, I’m wondering about the CAN Fwd options. Do all the recommended changes the the main VESC effect the slave too, so that nothing need be changed in regards to the slave alone?
My battery is dying under load when indicating 83% charge, or less. It seems to start to shut off when battery sag drops the displayed charge to about 73%. I can prevent shutdown of the battery by hitting the brakes and sending some current back into the battery. My battery also only shows 90% charge immediately after being removed from a charger with green LED. The battery’s LCD goes out and the battery shuts off even without any load (other than the electronics) when simply left turned on and nothing else. Onloop has assured me I will be taken care of and this bad battery issue will be resolved in a way that I am VERY happy with. That said, can anyone tell me what I might try via the VESC to prevent hitting the apparently bad BMS and triggered LVC, or bad or disconnected cells, of my battery? It’s only 7% or something, but I’d like to try and maximize the use of that 7% to get to know my Raptor better so for the time when I have a properly functioning battery. I don’t mind the Raptor slowing (way) down (even always being slow) as long as I have brakes for as long as possible. I’m sure this could be managed via the VESC by someone knowledgeable. That’s not me, yet.
I’m only getting a about 3 fast, or 5-6 slow minutes of ridding before my battery dies due to an issue. In those brief moments, while testing throttle control after calibration I’ve been happier than I expected after reading through the forum here. I can ride quite slow if needed with small tweaks. My cruise will set at a slow speed and VERY slowly ramp up. I think with more research and VESC settings trials I will be completely happy with the control of the Raptor. I’m still tweaking the braking while getting used to it. Now it seems I need more time on the board to learn how to shift my weight to maintain traction and not lock and slide the wheels. I want to find the right settings to stop ASAP, sliding isn’t doing that. It’s nice to know I can lock it up, but that’s not the fastest. At this point I think it’s more about my lack of skill and experience on the Raptor than the settings needing tweaks. That said, I’ll share my settings when I find something I’m happy with.
Unrelated, but I have to say I love the rush of jamming the throttle on the Raptor dual. It’s a genuine thrill. It’s very nice to ride my Raptor even if it’s for brief moments for the time being. It’s tough not enjoying to it’s full potential, but I know that will time come. @onloop, you’ve really made something special. I don’t know if anyone has had more problems than me, but I’d be surprised if they had from what I’ve seen. Still, with all that, I really really like this thing, and the way you’ve supported your customers. What I like most is the feeling that you will do your very best to make things right in the end. So far, I couldn’t ask for more from you than you’ve already offered to meet those ends. Thank You!
For now, I recommend mirroring all settings across both vesc. Even the PPM settings.
I am pretty sure that Dual VESC with CANBUS connection doesn’t require the PPM settings to be changed on the slave, as the master is sending the same signal it is receiving, but it won’t hurt so just do it.
ALSO, your battery is failing because its faulty, changing settings in the vesc won’t resolve that.
I suppose if i had that battery here I would test the output voltage, that will tell you a lot. I am guess that one of the sense wires is not connected or one of the cells in a group has a problem, therefore the BMS is detecting a lower pack voltage and cutting off.
If you feel like doing some battery surgery cut the black plastic off & remove all the parts so we can better see inside the battery, there is a chance it is one loose wire. You could be riding in a matter of minutes without a battery fault.
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The thing I noticed when the neutral position was below about 48% is that the brake would sometimes activate when in the neutral position. I had to lower the minimum pulsewidth value until the neutral position was at least 49% (I got better results on the braking when neutral was 50%).
From what I understand, you do not need to program the slave.
Done, just for good measure, even though it isn’t required.
I have a couple of multi-meters, can I test this effectively at the XT 60 connection or need it be done before the BMS, so to speak?
I’m happy to tear things apart to diagnose the issue. I’d like to know what’s wrong so you may work with your factory to prevent future S.P.A.C.E cells from having the same issue. If I’m riding in a “matter of minutes without a faulty battery” that’d just be a bonus. That said, I’m not positive I’d have the tools or skill set to resolve the issue. If that’s OK with you it’s more than fine by me. I’d like a chance to try provided it doesn’t limit my options, in terms of support, should I fail to resolve the problem. I’m guessing it wouldn’t from your thus far outstanding commitment to my satisfaction, but, as you know, I like to be clear.
EDIIT: I just read:
It sound’s like a blurb from a science fiction book… thought it was funny.
Good to know on both accounts. Thanks!