First build: dual 6374-190kv TB motors - 13s4p diy -dual Focbox - Arbor Prodigy 38" - DIY 97mm wheels - TB218 trucks (65kg skateboarder on top)

Those APS 63100s are only 140kV that’s a little low I think ? wanna hit that 190 ? or does that change when motor length changes ?

So back to the battery build, ordering 0.2x10mm nickel strips, doubling them for series connection OK ?

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I’m the wrong guy to speak to about building batteries ! Never done one as I only have a couple of boards - didn’t seem worth investing in all the equipment needed, plus in the UK the packs are very good value (sorry about that … I know how ridiculous Norway Taxes can be !).

Plenty of expert battery guys on here. Maybe ask in a dedicated thread so your questions get more notice :slight_smile:

The motors you posted will be OK, higher torque than 190kv, but lower top end speed. 190 is a good all rounder. I have dual 6374 190kv and never feel like I need more power !

U agree about the trucks too, or can I keep my caliber 2`s and buy some stiffer barrel bushings ?

I use TB 218mm trucks which are fairly standard issue for the larger motors. Not familiar with the ones you posted I’m afraid. Bushing setup will largely depend on how heavy you are and the style of riding you’re after. Stiff for heavy / speed blasting, mid/soft for light/carving. Best to have a selection anyway so you can find the sweetspot that suits you.

@ZachTetra do you have any comparison or objections towards TB218mm vs Split angle TKP ?

I’m gonna level honest here, I’ve never used either of them before. I’m just reciting what I heard elsewhere on the thread, supposedly the split TKP are some of the highest quality trucks you can get but then again TB218s are very common and people say good things about them. It is certainly easier to use the TB218s since lots of products are made for them but they are also not meant to carve.

Also the APS 63100 was just to show that those trucks were absolutely massive, I don’t actually recommend them

At the end of the day, just make sure you can get enjoyment out of what you make and that it was worth the money, you don’t need a perfect build off the bat

Some battery guys here that can give som advice on a charge only BMS for 12s4p battery might go 13s (charge only bcuz focbox, no discharge needed)

https://www.biltema.no/bygg/kjemikalier/silikon/silikon-hoytemperatur-2000017141

This is high temperature silicone used on motors and such, you think I could use it

Yes that looks good

Seems like you haven’t done enough research… :grinning:

Get a Bestech D140

was never an option

Ordered a D140 from bestech yesterday :wink: 13s

Also please don’t make your battery until you have done lots and lots of research

While waiting for the spot welder (coming 6th of June a Sunkko 709a) can I glue pairs of 4 together with positives facing same side without Barley paper in between ? Or wait until I get barley paper and kapton tape ?

fish paper is only necessary between the P groups. (please do some research on this matter)

Thats what I researched just doing control questions to make sure I understood it correctly. Please don’t pin me down for poor research, I have studied this for like a year now, and bought a prebuilt Ownboard for this season because I wasn’t ready for the task at hand. So then I am going ahead with the plan of gluing pairs of 4 together, wrapping them in fish paper afterwards

… yet you cant figure out the trucks, bms, deck, motor or battery.

that is correct, you could also go with the PCB method.

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Ok, feel free to add a link on the PCB method ? and your personal preference on what’s the bet option

also wether I should do one flat pack or stacking 2 on top of each other in the crack