So solder the black C- wire to the P- wire, and the red P+ wire gets soldered to the small black bms wire? You kind of lost me with the rewiring. Its hard to piece together without any prior knowledge of my own. Could you dumb it down for me a bit? 
Thank you!! I also have another potential hiccup, the bamboo gtr case is split into two, one houses the esc, and the other houses the battery,BMS, power button and charging port. The Focbox needs a momentary switch to work, so I have to use the new switch. However, the switch is mounted on the battery case, not the esc case where it will need to connect. both switches have 4 leads, could I wire the new button to the old leads and JST connector, or do I need to wire a lead from one case to another just for the focbox?
I would just remove the old one and put the one for the tenka. Most switches are made for their specific esc. So its best to take it out and switch it.
heres my question then, should I remove the old one and wire the old wires to the new switch? Technically that way I’m using the tenka switch and it also allows me to reuse the just connector and switch terminal so I don’t need to leave exposed wires under the board. Im not sure if that makes sense.
All the remaining BMS wires go where?
For the top question. That would be up to you. Its very simple to remove the switch however. My recommendation would be to change it. But that’s me.
For the bottom question, every positive side of the battery (i think the balance lead should be on the battery since evolve had to solder them on). The last lead goes to the positive discharge wire soldered point.
ok, one more question: Where do the P and B- wires go? Those are what we used to bypass the bms before?
B- goes on the negative side of the battery. Look at your battery and find the positive discharge wire. Your negative wire will be on the opposite end of it. But the b- on the evolve bms should show it.
The connector on the far left connected to the P+ and P- wires is effectively my XT60 at the moment. There is a B- and P wire soldered on the the board and they’re both separate from the P+ and P- wires. these soldered to the bottom of the previous bms. Do I just solder them to their respective BMS connection?
Ah, I see where i got lost. Since the bamboo gtr is all on a circuit board, The leads come from the battery in an odd spot. I just need to solder those to the bms. Im not sure how I missed that lol
Its easier if you take the battery out and work on it from there. Saved me a lot of troubles doing that.
I think Im going to save myself the trouble of adding extra wires and Im just going to merge the battery and esc case. I think I’m going to use epoxy and then caulking to seal just incase. Any advice?
Tbh, I just make my own cases with fiberglass. But i think the way you describing on what to do is probably a good method.
Im not an expert when it comes to things like that lol
so im a bit confused on where to connect the red bms wires, the configuration of this battery is a bit difficult for me to understand. Heres what it looks like:
Oh wow, that’s interesting. It looks like a pcb for the 10s4p battery. Give me a moment and see if i can find some details about it.
Edit: okay, apparently this pcb should already have the needed access. I can see the P+ and P- , which is possibly the discharge lead. Is that connected with an XT60 connector?
Secondly, can you take a much clearer picture of the pcb? I need to see what it has on it so i can see what goes where. I’ll see if i can find info to install bms via pcb.
I feel like its all there. Its actually alot easier to assemble.
Edit ×2: more info gathered. Turns out this pcb is horrible when it comes to DIY since evolve has limited the ability to change their stuff. The bms that came with it connects to that pcb and only works with that pcb. The only way to bypass this is if you were able to build your own battery.
Unfortunately, at this point, I would buy a different battery for the time being. But if you can restore the bms on it, the only thing I can say is that you use the remote as a pwm controller instead. This is usually why no one buys an evolve battery.
yes, the P+ and P- are what connects the battery/BMS to the ESC. It was another custom evolve connector but when I merged the battery case and esc case, I just removed that in exchange for an XT60. Alright, so effectively its useless and I need a new battery? I guess that’ll simplify the wiring and whatnot. I was thinking of a Panasonic 21700 12s4p, but would a 10s5p work better? What’re your recommendations? Ive done my research to an extent, but its hard to know what to look for. It seems like they’re very comparable and similar in my case with my motors, but I don’t need the 100A of discharge with a 10s5p. It sounds like a 10s5p offers a better range with lower top speeds, but the 12s4p offers a slightly slower but comparable range with a higher top speed. I will need a new bms as well, so shoot me any ideas you have. I have a set of FlipSky 6354 190kw motors that I’d prefer to keep as they’re non-returnable, but I’m open to suggestions. Thank you again for all your help with this build! I literally could not have done this without you!
Edit: I was looking into making my own enclosure, and I’m tempted to try bondo because Ive heard good things about it and its easy to work with. Another Idea I had was doing a cool sleek custom aluminum enclosure with 45* edges that uses (hopefully) already drilled screw holes. Any suggestions/advice in that realm?
The size is similar. But do you want more power/speed or more range/regular speed.
The higher the series, the higher the rpm.
You pretty much know this. It’s up to you.
However, if you’re looking into batteries, these two are my recommendation:
They’re both great battery makers. But the round time is a week or so and its in US. Idk where you live. The battery they make are high performance so you can get the range and speed of how you like it since it has the potential to do both.
I’ve seen some very cool enclosures made with these. But as a classical guy, I just make mine fiberglass.
As you can see, it’s a lot easier and you can customize it to your liking since you can paint over, make holes and silicone when needed, and it’s very sturdy. You could make it flexible by cutting it and then adding rubber material, etc.
I find it easier doing fiberglass since all you need is the resin, the hardener, and the cloth (make sure it’s the cloth).
But its all up to you.
Note: you do not need to change anything, nor replace your motors. It all works. And if you purchase a battery from the site i recommended, you do not need a bms nor need to change it. Keep that bms as back up just incase the other bms breaks. I have a spare myself.
Im looking for a strong consistent torque curve and potentially a higher speed. I would like to maintain about 20 miles of range if possible, I’m a lightweight rider as well.
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