ah right good idea I will try. Unfortunatelly EU, but I have parcels going out to US in case. No problem.
, shipping back and forth would be expensive… i’m pretty sure we can debug remotely, even though it would take a bit more effort
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Ok good. But if it is broken I can ask a friend to do tt but prefer people that actually made it. I can ship a Unity to you with 20 Euro not a big deal.
Anybody else have the settings on their unity change randomly? My brakes changed from -30 to -60/regen from -15 to -30 and motors changed to reverse
Are you using any other phone apps with your unity?
That has happened to me a few times with different unities. I have had to re run motor detection and reconfigure everything including battery settings
Yes, Xmatic. Which doesn’t stay connected either.
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Also with a 10s5p (Samsung 30q cells) how high would you recommend max settings for the braking anyway? Been told -30/-15 regen but that feels weak
4amps regen per p cell is safe. Try -60 max brake (low speed braking) current and -20 regen (high speed braking). Should result in pretty strong brakes.
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Excellent, thank you!
Anybody else had their unity cut out, lock the brakes and throw them off at 35km/hr before? No longer turns on after making a sparking/shorting sound. Emailed support so will see what they say but that kinda sucked, haha.
So I just got an android phone… Paired up and watched to see any changes during the battery cut out I’ve been seeing under throttle conditions. The battery gauge drops rapidly down past 10% and the cut out occurs just after that, and after the cut out happens, power returns and the battery meter goes right back up. Charging also seems to be taking extra time. Any ideas as to what is happening here, or what is wrong?
Sounds like discharge bms cutting output?
Are you saying maybe the problem is the BMS, (because it is new) or that the problem could be in the motors, say it is getting too much heat, and cut out is occuring rapidly? I forgot to be looking at my motor temps during this test, but I noticed, at ambient, one of the motors reads a higher temp by about 10 Celsius.
Hi! Here the test you asked me 
Let me know what do you think about it. Thx a lot!
I said BMS because, when watching ackmaniac app, when I pull the loop key I see the voltage go down over a 1-2 second span until the vesc can’t power itself. This sounds like what you’re experiencing.
I don’t think it’s any temperature cutoff, as that would not drop the indicated pack voltage.
Based on your description so far, it sounds like under load, your pack is dropping in voltage enough for the BMS to invoke Low Voltage Cutoff, and shut down the output. This could happen because of bad cells, bad p-group, or bad connections.
This is just a possibility to consider though. There are lots of variables when troubleshooting.
Thats the capacitors discharging, all vescs do that when powered down.
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Do you have any suggestions for further testing to figure this out? My local friend said let’s tear into the battery and check for breaks in the welds somewhere. Also I’ll be pulling off the internals and checking all those connections maybe a lose connection somewhere. Remembering that this also happens when I run over some bumps, but maybe that’s just the timing…
I know this has been asked and brought up before but I am slightly concerned. I just finished my 10s4p samsung 30q pack and set the Battery Max to 30 amps and the Motor max to 35 amps.
I maxed the throttle and saw the battery amps spike to ~55 amps. Why is this happening? I thought the Battery Max was a hard limit with a little leeway for small spikes. This seems large to me. Is it because of my motor settings? I am not that concerned considering the safe limit for my pack is 60 amps and the absolute limit is 80 amps.
I would appreciate any input because I am trying to keep my pack happy and healthy! Thank you! 
Hey I think you should start a thread, this is a bit too off topic now 
Hehe do you think the esc didn’t respect amp limits, or do you think it’s giving false readings? Or both.