The video is close and can also help you here with any questions. The two case halves are all the long GT2b screws. The third channel PCB uses one of the short ones. You will need to m3 x 20mm screws and two m3 nuts to hold the main PCB down.
The two most recent GT2b’s I have ordered have the smaller micro USB port and have not needed any resistors.
What brand is that light blue filament on the left?
I only use prototype supply, and get it from toybuilderlabs.com they are great and have had zero problems at all, they are the OllinBoardCo of 3d printing. High quality at a reasonable price
I had to dremel the front of the trigger mount, as well as the base of the trigger mount where it connects to the main board so it can go all the way in. I didn’t do the full mod with the power meter, but this is all I need for now. thanks Leo
@mcfly777, Oh yes, always will have to cut the front of the trigger mount shorter and square up around the screw hole on right side to get it flush against the PCB.
I was thinking you had to dremel some of the case enclosure.
No, that worked perfectly out of the printer. Very good fit indeed.
Leo
Awesome design!
Would you mind sharing the file on a step format? Thank you!
Do you think that you will have a molded mad munkey for sale anytime soon?
@Titoxd10001 I don’t know how soon, but working on getting someone to make the mold for me. I have to finish the Mad Munkey piece to send to him. I want a molded Mad Munkey sooooooo bad.
Yes that would be great
Awesome work! Are there step by step instructions for installing a GT2B into one of these available anywhere? Can’t seem to find any mention of instructions in this thread
Sure, both switches will work on the DPDT switch you will just nned one Pole. a switch is a switch, it does not matter
@michaelcpg I am working on it still. I feel so bad taking so long, just have a lot piled on my plate at the moment. I can help with any questions about the build or you can check out the Bad Wolf v2 build log.
No worries at all man, I’ll have a good read over the Bad Wolf build threads. Are there any major differences between your design and the Bad Wolf mod or particular things to be aware of in regards to how to install the PCB etc? The main thing I’ve picked up on so far is to make sure the battery is properly insulated.
I would say that is the only real difference, make sure you use the plastic when you took apart the battery to insulate the battery and BMS. PCB is the same cut down and desolder the USB. The nose of the trigger assembly just needs to be cut down to fit inside the housing. Then glue it flat after you have it bolted down on the PCB.
Glad I stumbled onto this thread. I’m going to be upgrading my board to the GT2B controller. If you are still considering making a silicone mold, I would take a look at my video for some more technical ideas. Using a proper urethane will give you more physical properties than PLA or ABS enclosures (I know having just split my ABS battery holder on my board last night). Maybe I’ll do a mold myself with your approval and cooperation to show the process. 
How do you charge controller once you do this mod?
Same as before the mod, micro USB port.
Make sure to slow the speed down and print with 4+ wall thickness… I listed PLA and had the fan at 100% the whole time (I usually don’t)
