Is there any way to modify the esc?
Sadly, no
10 chars
I have 2 of these single esc and I am looking to build s dual drive board. Anyone know how u can hook up the 2 single esc to make a dual. I really donāt want to buy a new dual esc. I see sellers were able to like 2 dual esc to make a 4x wheel drive esc.
Ask diyeboard I think their new v2.1 esc is just 2 singles stacked to make a dual
Seems like diyeboard just connect 5 wires and the powers cables together. I am very might try it. But my problem I purchased the 2 single esc from different sellers so I am afraid the firmware might be different.
I connected 6 wires and the powers together of my 2 single esc tonight. I am running it on 10s. The esc powers on at the same time. It runs forward without a problem but when I apply the break the second esc goes backward. Another problem is that while plugged in i can not use the power buttons to power off the escs. I give up.
The capacitor is constantly failing. Itās the right voltage and everything. Iāve changed 5 of them so farā¦ Now I bought a 250V high temperature one. The ESC gets extremely hot so i put an old cpu heatsink on it but itās still hot. Input voltage is 10s and I have a 190kv motor, 14:27 ratio and 90mm wheels but Itās super weak. I can go max 16km/h on itā¦
And yeah, the ESC has the rpm limit and itās about 6400, but 190kv motor at 10s is 7980rpm max and with the 80% efficiency, the esk8.it calc says that it should go about 50kmh weighted
The first thing I did was switch out the caps for 63v ones, also got rid of the terrible phase wires and bullet terminals, mine came with a small heat sink.
The voltage meter wiring is perplexing 5/6 pins - why?
I know I could simply wire a typical voltmeter to far side of the anti-spark but interested to know what info is displayed on oem Meter since it has so many leads, maybe not just volts?
Yeah the phase wires are extremely weak, how did you get to the solder points on the board for them?
With much care, they are placed very near other components so you need to get it off quick with high heat ; I used 400deg it took 2s I think for each one to desolder , then carefully replaced with a 14awg wireā¦bat in use will only be a 8s2p lipo build.
The esc I got (Banggood hub esc) seems to be only rated for 6s/7s but it seems to work on 8s
@banjaxxed Not sure about the others but the chinese board I got to use has only 2 wires going to voltmeterā¦ There is something like 5 wires going to the led switch though and then 2 wires seperate and go to voltmeter directly from ledswitchā¦ at least it was / is this way for me.
@Wilsonliang777 I think on diyeboard page it said 2.1v and 1.1v is the same firmware, there are just changes to heatsinks and size.
I might try to take a photo of mine. Ive got ninestep chinese board, it does not have the same exact esc, as it runs unsensored but it also has wires connecting the 2escs together. So far I can tell that one pin from the led switch also goes to the second escā¦ though not sure whenever u will still try anything with your 2 escsā¦
On a side note - Does anyone know why my esc might be jittering / stuttering the motor?
It starts to spin it up for 2-3 seconds then it jams itā¦ then it tries to start again. At first I thought it is related with belt or alignment, but I took off the belt and the top mounted esc is still doing thisā¦
I might upload a video some time soonā¦
Though this problem is only for the surface mounted esc, the one under it runs just fineā¦
How do I know this? Because when switching motor wires, the underside esc works fine but the top side esc jams both motors, so clearly this is not motors fault but something to do with the esc itselfā¦
Thanks, I read this thread a little more thoroughly and the advice seems to be that an antispark is not needed, in saying that Iāve noticed it āpopsā even when powered down on connecting to the battery so not entirely convinced.
I saw a picture dickieho posted above for the meter which has a bunch of white leads and a red/black on the end, think Iāll use that as a reference for a normal meter I can use
Hi @banjaxxed I tried to figure this out a while back. I put a voltmeter across the pins on that battery meter connection and came to the conclusion that there is a power and ground for each of the bars on the battery indicator that dickieho supplies. So each led has 2 wires.
It doesnāt seem the most elegant design but would work. None of the pins had a voltage anywhere near what my battery pack was at.
This said, itād be great if you could prove me wrong!
Weāll see Iāll get one off dicky if he has them
Hey, i bought one of those dual motors esc, i have two 5065 270kv unsensored chinese motors with a 1:3 ratio and 70mm, the calculators said that i could go up to 22km/h but i cant get nowhere near that, only 14km/hā¦ Where is the problem coming from ?
Hmm maybe you are on slow mode on the remote? You must be able to hit 24kmh with a daul setup like this. You got a 6S battery right?
No iām not in slow mode, in slow mode i actually go below 10 km/h . Yes i have 2 3s 2700mah in series.
The speed in slow mode seems fine but I think your batteries are to weak to get enough power in high speed mode. Are you sure the batteries are charged? Does your setup has a lot of friction or something that can cause this low speed.
Looks like the rpm might be being limited although that would result in a top speed of 20km/h still. Iām not sure what could be happening but I would suggest changing the gear ratio to gain more speed.
If you swap the 16t motor pulley with a 24t one that will still have good torque and should have a top speed of about 25km/h
Also what batteries are you using?