i respect the point you are trying to make but it is completely out of context… i asked a simple question… how do these motors mount to the truck? same goes for nuff board, etc…
READ and learn
ok i will contact everyone who owns the board… and asking them to tear it down and give me an answer
does anybody own the nuff or landwheel? and has removed the hub motors and seen how they attatch?
Hey, I have a board that uses this specific motor. It was a dual motor setup but i water damaged the part of the esc that controls the left motor so all i have is the right one. That being said, that single motor is still able to get me up to the esc’s rated top speed 18mph but torque is pretty damn bad. Is it usable? Yes and no. its abolutely usable in NYC where the terrain is flat and you have all the space to accelerate. Its not viable in areas like san Francisco where torque in your setup is an absolute must (hills). The durability of these motors are pretty damn bad. I had board for nearly 8 months now and the hub motor cap that keeps the motor centered has chipped off a large piece from normal use. That being said, I have ridden these motors in all sorts of weather conditions and while the outside of its bearings (silver ring) are rusting a little, the motors are spinning just as well as they were on day 1. I have an extra 1 of these motors in green if youre interested. lmk if you want to know anything else on my experiences on this motor. Edit: Forgot to mention, im using a 10s2p pack and it will barely get up the steepest hill in my park (the kind that will leave you absolutely winded if you tried to sprint up), i dont think a 10s1p pack will provide the needed amps to get this motor up a similar hill unless you get the absolute best cells. that being said, i just bought some LG HG2 cells for dirt cheap $24.29 for 10. Do what you will with that info
so you say that it does ok on the steepest hill you could find… with one motor or both??
or are you just talking about a different diy board with the 10s1p… im not really clear how 2p is stronger or better… (i should probably read more on my own but care to enlighten?)
do you know what kind of maytechs could replace the koowheel motors if necessary
im also looking at blitzart… maybe buying the dual one… they sell replacement motors… and have the right motor mount… i would mount them to my deck and mini trucks… and it would basically be the worlds smallest eboard ever built… but not suck like the serpent C (the chasis im using that only takes maytech/koowheel style hubs) it literally goes speed walking speed… the way i would describe it is… the worst boards on the market… single hub boards… cheap chinese boards… acton… stuff that people on this forum would scoff at… bare minimum … when you press the throttle… they JOLT… and cause you to have to actually be careful/ lean forward… take precautions to not fly backwards and crack your head open… the serpent C none of that jolt… and not because of some complex acceleration pattern… just because it sucks… period… doesnt get the job done… and hopefully soon i will be posting a thread about the REAL smallest board ever made that actually works… basically with koowheel motors and battery (or some other premade board) transferred onto the chassis
so it does
With both motors, this thing will get up steep hills with no problem. On 1 motor, it’ll get up a hill the same pace a bike can (or cant) provided that it sometimes slows down to jogging or walking pace. On flats, the single motor setup still hits the normal top speed .
I don’t know if you can see it, I replaced my broken motor with a normal wheel and used 4 bearings as spacers in order to keep the wheel from shifting around on the wider motor mount. A 10s2p battery allows the battery pack to have twice the mAH and Amp output. 2p is the multiplication of mAH and amps while 10s is the multiplication of voltage (3.6v x 10 = 36v battery pack). By using a 10s2p pack, it is able to provide the motor with double the amps that a normal 10s1p battery pack will provide. Example) My Maxfind C 10s1p battery specs are 36v, 2000mah, 10A max draw. What this translates to in performance is voltage sag after the 50% mark and extreme voltage sag on hills (even on full charge). If the battery pack can’t provide the motor with enough volts, the motor can’t perform and the battery cycle life will be shortened. I don’t have any knowledge on maytech and koowheels comparability. I have a blitzart hurracane gt and honestly if you want something that will last you more than 9 months, id suggest you to get something else like Ownboard. That being said, if you’re only buying the blitzart for it’s motor and motor mounts, it’ll last you a good while provided that you don’t take on cracks and debris at it’s top speed like I do. (These specific motors have weak motor caps and large pieces break off if you aren’t careful) You’re planning on moving blitzart motors and motor mounts onto a separate smaller deck? Make sure you won’t get wheel bite because the motors are measured 90mm. Also, the esc & battery enclosure won’t fit anything shorter than the original deck it comes with so be prepared to do some serious diy work on the battery and a new enclosure
actually i was thinking the same thing… about doing some diy rearranging the blitzard dual hub battery pack into more of a square shape rather than a long rectangle…
i wonder if there is any way to cnc or diy some kind of stronger hub motor cap for the blitzart…
also… the “kuickwheel serpent C” i was very excited to get… and when it arrived it goes a SLOW CRAWL… so even the single hub motor blitzard with the tiny battery pack would be much better than what i have… and it could be an nice novelty board basically the smallest skateboard ever made… but with acton level performance (which is a good metric for me because i have owned one and it served me well)… instead of being completely useless… ill hang it on my wall next to the more powerful boards…
tbh if the original company (kuickwheel) just made the thing with that level of performance to begin with (acton blink, blitzart, 10-15mph, 7m range single hub struggling on hills) we wouldnt be having this conversation… instead its a literal toy
considering my goal is super skinny trucks and dual hubs… perhaps i could do what others on this forum have done which is take an angle grinder to and cut out the square shape from some normal trucks… but i would make the square shapes much much closer to the king pin than what they were doing…
my conern is that the threads on the axle wont go down far enough to actually hold the hub in place…
so im thinking about cutting the axle shorter and then tapping it with a thread down the top of it… and then bolting down a washer or something to hold the wheel on… this is how my current single hub trucks work so in theory it should be pretty safe?
im worried the metal would be so thin that this section of the axle might crack off at some point from stress…
I wouldn’t recommend on trying to replace these motor caps. I tried to take the screws out and stripped every one of them despite using the right size screw driver. They bathed those things in picture. Even so there are some videos on youtube of people who have done it so it’s possible. Just pretty damn difficult. I was really on the verge of getting the serpent C last year but didn’t have the money. I’m glad my poorness saved me from getting it lol. If probably use it to get around the house and that’s it.
You need wider axles to acomidate for the wider motor.
you’ll have to cut off a load of metal inorder to get the motor all the way in
not even good for that… and there was serious charging issues… and the company is awol in terms of warranties and support… i doubt they would replace faulty boards after it just took 6 months to ship instead of their promised november ship date… its so dissapointing i cant even put words to it… like no one in their right mind would sign off on this thing… or with any experience of electric skateboards… i would call it… “the worlds slowest electric skateboard” to be more accurate…
question…
is it typically a no no to stack 2 seperate battery packs on top of each other height wise… with some kind of cushioning… or only side by side? if i am gonna rearrange the blitzard battery pack to be less long…
thanks,
Just buy one of these: https://ownboard.net/collections/boards/products/ownboard-electric-skateboard-mini-6-4ah-sanyo
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Theres plenty of battery building guides. Most use hot glue to keep en together and them use heat shrink to keep em together. I go through the extra step to tightly wrap all the cells together with electrical tape so theres no room for it to budge. I dont know the answer to the 1 battery pack on top of another question though. typically most enclosures are purposely made to be a tight fit for the battery pack so that the cells wont come apart inside. If you could somehow make an enclosure that can fit 2 battery packs stacked on top of each other, go ahead. Be warned that you never want any room for movement for the battery pack in the enclosure or you will find that you’re battery will malfunction in pretty short order.
is 10s2p basically in a sense just doubling the amount of batteries as 10s1p… as opposed to say 9s2p… or somethign like that.???
or is it more to do with taking the same amount or slightly more batteries and hooking them together in a different way???
what are the most important specs for these extremely high performance diy boards such as hummy’s stuff… or the arguably less robust raptor 2???
like what do i look for in a setup?? max amp draw?? is max amp draw supposed to be worse for range… but better for speed (or is it torque not speed?)
does amps have to do with torque or speed… how is a motor rated?? is it based much amps it draws for a given level of throttle?
how do you select a vesc and battery to match a motor (actually dual) assuming the motor has already been selected… or vice versa… vesc is already selected how does one match the motor to that… same for battery…
assuming i was going to build a diy dual motor board… what would be the best system possible (spec wise) what would be decent/medium system’s specs (meepo level) and WHY… what would you go with on a DIY dual hub board…
Im talking in terms of specs… not in terms of build quality… because im not going to use the hummies or r-specs…
why is voltage important… why not just go with 5s 2p or something like that… is 36 volts hub motors considered good? or ok for a dual hub motor setup…
why is amp hours only ever measured in mAh>>>
10S is the multiplication of the voltage in a single cell. 10 x 3.6v = 36v
2p is the multiplication of the cell mAH and Amp output. 2200 mAH x 2 = 4400mAH and 15Amps x 2 = 30 Amps
The amount of cells in a battery pack can be calculated simply by multiplying the S and the P values.
ex) In a 10s2p pack, 10 x 2 = 20 cells. 10s x 3.6v = 36v. 2p x 2200mAH = 4400mAH ex 2) In a 5s4p pack. 5 x 4 = 20 cells. 5s x 3.6v = 18v. 4p x 2200mAH = 8800mAH
There are a lot of important specs. The important specs are determined on what exactly you want from the board. If you live in a hilly area and require a lot of torque, you need a high wattage motor, an esc that can pump enough current into the motor, and a battery that has a high enough amp rating to supply the current needed. If a battery cant supply enough amps to the motor, you’ll find that voltage sag sets in pretty quick, worse hill climbing ability, and shortened cycle life of the battery pack from being overworked. Example of high amperage batteries are: Sony vtc 5 & vtc6, sanyo 20700A If you’re looking for maximum range, you’re more focused on batteries that have higher mAH and some way to limit the current that the motor is drawing (VESC). examples of high mAH batterys are: LG HG2, Sanyo 20700B. Important to note that the higher the mAH battery, the lower Amps they can put out.
Sorry, I dont know enough about vesc to answer this question. I forget how to calculate the amount of amps a motor draws. Most high end setups dont draw more than 40Amps.
Cant answer this question, part searching is extremely time consuming. I can tell you that building a meepo style diyeboard is quite easy and provides great performance.
Voltage is important because electronics are rated to only work with certain voltages. If a flashlight is rated for 7.2v and you use 3.6v with it, the light will barely turn on or not at all. If you use a 11.1v battery on a 7.2v flashlight, you’ll most likely burn out the bulb. Voltages are like certain size train tracks. 36v motors are standard
I should basically cahnge this thread name to DUAL HUB MOTOR BUILD… because i have been convinced by the pros responding telling me to do this…
I know the style of mount for the hub motors i need… im honestly curious if all the of the maytech style hub motors are the same… such as the ones on the koowheel… blitzart… etc… if they actually are the same motor… or if the factories are just copying eachother and continueally designing them and using different materials or skimping on copper winding quality etc… or if its literally just the same motor all produced in one factory…
they all seem to use the same cap on the wheel, the same mount style… and everything…
more questions on specs but let me collect my thoughts after that big info bomb
They get these motors in bulk from a chinese factory. They are all the same
Just buy a Meepo or similar… Ive had mine for over 6mo as a starter board (1.0meepo) and for commuting. For the price its paid for.itself.and.has been great… I coulndt imagine a single hub unless it was 500w min… And I just upgraded my hubs recently to 500 x 2 which is a bit nicer but now im saving for a belt.drive.
I also commute in from CT and ride manhattan all the time. From a time/cost/hassle view u might be able to save a few buck doing a.diy Meepo type board and doing assembly yourself… Or just order one and open the box and get to riding in less time.
I’m only 140# and it rides great but once you get to caving on the streets (when these a holes decide to.clean up the winter mess) youre gonna want.more =)
edit: actually this is what i woulda done in retrospect… youll have plenty of juice for range OR to ride hard (but less range) before it really starts to sag and 100w total… blank deck off skateshred for 40-50 and done (beside minimal hardware)
http://www.diyeboard.com/10s5p-360wh-batteryescpower-truck-kit-dual-9052mm-hub-motors-p-598.html