Help with wiring and loopkey (first post but learned lots here)

[mootzki]

Alright so I have a battery with 2 sets of +/- wires, 2 standard ESC’s (dual drive), and 2 1000w Brushless motors. It has no reliable key/security built in, nor battery/circuit reset button so while troubleshooting and learning way more about electricity than I ever thought possible (for me), I discovered you guys.

Gotta say I’m impressed with all the great info here.

Anyways, this is what I originally tried before realizing it wouldnt be so simple as there are more than one positive and negative sets. The way i wired in the loopkey, did not affect the system from turning on or off. I did a bit of searching and may have an idea of what to do, but I am prone to accidents and would very much like some other heads to help confirm and brainstorm.

I’m guessing i will need to cross the two circuits somehow? I thought about a second loopkey as well but that seems silly and I only have a spot for one to poke out of the deck anyhow.

Here is the one I’m redrawing but stuck at the moment. I can get actual photos later if it helps.

And thx for any help

[mootzki]

The issue is the split is from the battery itself. How would i wire it in this case?

[LeonCamero]

If the battery has a second wiring, you may need to see if you can remove it. I don’t think its necessary to have two wires. But i guess there is one.

Edited after the actual photo.

[mootzki]

This is what I’m thinking they did with this battery but not certain. It’s got dual charging ports and each set of poles connect to the ESC’s. Is there any benefit to having two sets?

[LeonCamero]

If you have a multimeter, check the voltage of the two wires. If they match, you might need to open the pack to see… i did it for mine. They were two 10s5p batteries into one big 10s10p.

The two sets were probably for all wheel drive.

[kavic5150]

Hold the phone here. If you have two packs in parallel then a single loop key could be added to one wire after the 2 packs join. Recommend using an XT90 anti spark connector as this will likely be the last connection before arming your esc and there will be a rush of current without one.

[LeonCamero]

^ Technically, they’re split atm. But if you check and see if it is 2 packs as one, definitely follow this.

[kavic5150]

We’re gonna need some actual pics here I think.

[mootzki]

It’s one battery afaik. This is closest thing i can provide atm, not around mine,

but same exact battery. He’s just got tape all over his wires. But mine has 2 sets + 2 charge ports coming out just like that, but charging ports aren’t shown in his, either tucked behind or he broke them in a rage, judging by the shape it’s in Annnd I just realized I probably didnt even draw the first diagram correctly. Sorry…

[LeonCamero]

Ah its one of those. That helps.

You’ll need to make a double loopkey.

You’ll need to run the XT60 with another shorter one that splits the red and black.

But check the battery…

[mootzki]

I just realized I believe his has been modified, or “heavily tested”. The ebay listing says “untested” in the title with that as last photo lol

However the inside should look something like this, according to manufacturer. In a few hours I’ll take actual photos so you can see what’s going on.

I did discover something that sounded terrible with my front motor last night. I elevated the deck and spun the wheel and heard what sounded like something small rattling around somewhere in the hub or wheel. Also it came shipped in the state, huge dent in the rim, it’s just got a bit more wobbly. I can’t find a replacement anywhere, i really want to replace the whole hub, wheel and all. June 29, 2022 - YouTube

[LeonCamero]

Looks like 6-10 inch scooter wheels, but I’m not 100%. As for the battery, it’s best to check it out.

@mootzki

I just realized I believe his has been modified, or “heavily tested”.

This is exactly why… anything modified must be checked. It’s just precautions. Not saying yours, but any kind.

[mootzki]

Noo i didnt modify my battery, not needing a new one either. Yet Tested mine yesterday and it’s still capping at 58.8v

My wheels are 10”, rotors 140mm, I’ll need to measure tire fatness again

Just have concerns since I believe this battery has bms will that be a concern?

To clarify, those are not photos of ‘my’ battery. Some ebay listing since i cant get to mine. Anyways gn and thank you so much for the help. Been at this for a year now understanding how electricity and these things work. I want to build an actual board next when i finish fixing this up

[LeonCamero]

The hardest part is to know the bms discharge rating. And to know whether or not its bypassed. Bms is fine, just an extra step of knowing before proceeding. Nothing is ever simple.

Have a good night. Hopefully you’ll have the necessary information to do what is needed.

[mootzki]

Okay here are some actual photos. Pls excuse the birds nest of wires. There are two male xt60’s leading from the battery and one female for each controller.

[LeonCamero]

Bms will be 45A - 50A discharge. Limit your esc accordingly. As for this. You will need to shorten the battery wire and then proceed to do the diagram I showed to make the dual XT90 loopkey.

The shorter the wire, the less the inductance. Motor wires dont have this issue so they can be as long as needed.

[mootzki]

What about Maximum Battery discharge current 40 amps? Is that the same as BMS or does that mean it doesn’t have one? I’m still confused what to do here because dont want to blow up the apartment building 🥹

[LeonCamero]

Maxium amp means how much the battery can push out at max. The BMS is basically a safety neck of the battery. If you were to overcharge, or overdischarge, the bms will stop it. If your board is trying to pull more than what your battery can give, the bms stops it from doing that. This will turn off your ride though.

The bms is not the battery. It is a safety system for it.

[mootzki]

I knew that but wasnt sure if all had them or not. I’ve never really messed with the battery and preferred not to tamper with the cables battery side or tear into it to check what type it is. You certain that diagram will work and the colors are fine? And is it bad using too many xt60-xt90 and xt90 to xt60 converters? I’m assuming yes. And thank you so much for all your help

[LeonCamero]

The diagram should show that they’re two separated connectors so there wont be any issue. As long as you follow it. As for the XT60 to 90, the only issue might be using XT60 for higher current. But since its 40, it should be fine. I haven’t gotten issues doing it for mine