Hglrc-FLPSKY Smart Anti Spark Switch

ESK8 Electronics
1

Hi,

I’ve been searching the internet and this forum for anyone experienced with this smart anti-spark switch from Aliexpress but I haven’t found anyone. Description says: “Smart: skate your board to power on , Stay still for 3 minutes automatically power off”.

Link: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Hglrc-FLPSKY-Anti-Spark-Switch-Smart-280A-13s-Wide-Application-for-Electric-Skateboard-Scooter-Robots-Accessories/32960917242.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.29994c4dg8NPja

Is there anyone out there that have tried this unit? Is there any cheaper options(with the “skate your board to power on” function)?

Regards, Viktor

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Please don’t but flipsky anti-sparks, they burn out and could burn your board. Almost all anti spark switches will burn eventually but @b264 can explain better. Best option is xt90s

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I would recommend a Loop Key because not only are they very, very cheap but they are very good.

At this moment, I don’t know of a better option. I suspect that will change this year, though.

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IMG_20190217_150022

This is my favourite solution. Car audio breaker. It’s a fuse,on/off and breaker at the same time. No solder required and 8awg friendly. I prefer this BY FAR to any loop key or antispark. It’s as cheap as a loop key but way more reliable. The only downside is aesthetics. Obviously one of those led buttons is more pleasant.

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I need banana for scale

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IMG_20190217_154106

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I used them a lot myself, the problem is that they burn up internally. I wonder if an xt90s in front of the breaker would solve that problem.

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tenor

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I never ruined one of those and i used them for years on ebikes and esk8. What volt/amp were you using?

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10s and 12s, I typically get 3 to 5 months the have to replace. I haven’t used them in awhile because loop keys have lasted a lot longer, for me.

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IMG_20190217_154541 This is how i wire them. None failed so far. IMG_20190217_154704 This is the one i use on my bike. 22s

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Holy crap, 22s and no issues? Have you got a link to the specific breaker you are using? I’m wondering if there’s something different from what I’ve used.

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https://es.aliexpress.com/item/60A-80A-100A-150A-200A-250A-300A-Car-Audio-Amplifier-Circuit-Breaker-Fuse-Holder-AGU-Style/32817086454.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.274263c0MZZmRx

I think it was that one.

800×450
this is the battery. Ridiculous power. 22s6p konions vtc6 0.1 copper sheet

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Cool, I’ll give it a shot. That battery, I need a minute :grinning:.

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You managed to startle @mmaner Bearded Angel Well done

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I’ve always liked the idea of breakers, they were just always on the edge of reliable though, at least for me. I’m sure u can model a housing for the round breaker and make it look professional while exposing the switch for easy access.

If it’s reliable that answers the AS question for me. I’m gonna order a couple and see what I can come up with. I’ll call it the ‘rojitor router’ :grin:.

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So @rojitor… you are using a 100A on your skateboard?

  • I have my VESC set to max: 40A (commuting, I don’t need the speed). Guessing 100A would be good… maybe too much?
  • so you would use the “lever” as your on/off (button as off)?

I reckon I could make this look pretty sweet in my 3D printed enclosure. Wondering how dust/splash resistant it would be.

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… nuts. Forgot you’d still need an anti-spark in the mix. :slight_smile:

Also: https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/cheap-anti-spark-kill-switch-idea-will-it-work/23939/26

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What electrodes do you use to spot welder copper?

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Didn’t you say that the “pre charge” module on the fat boy antispark solves the problem of antispark switches?

Or at least prolong its life

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