I think you can make a 4+ series VESC work if you don’t go full throttle with it. Definitely a lot cheaper, and easier, route.
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Ok thanks i did think it would be cool to buy an focbox or something to spend a few months on the m1 till its toast and pop the esc in my kt mini. At least then its not a one use purchase. He will only use it for flat beach rides so i should just go for cheap and cheerful like the 4 wotsit mentioned. I do prefer plug and play
My brand new ownboard motor has stripped thread bolts so guess ill be upgrading that piece of poop too haha. The bolts only engages 3 threads.
The M1 has magic smoke possibly from arcing at the phase terminals. Motor had resistance but is fine once disconnected
Anyway will watch what goes on here thanks 
As im just looking at beach front cruising would something like this do?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F113975660167
what did you use to clean your motors? I was thinking of using isopropyl alcohol and qtips but just want to make sure I am not going to mess up anything lol.
thanks a lot guys for information, it help me a lot. I’m on the beginning of my journey to replace original ESC and battery in my m1 and will be glad if someone can help me with the following questions:
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As my battery already dead, I need to replace it, I read several topics here and got impression that I need to invest some more time in that field in order to find the best alternative, someone post link with esk8 Calculator that I found quite useful, but in order to use it in full I need to know motor specs (kV, poles, W, Wh/km) I would greatly appreciate if someone would share at least average values for it. So far I cant decide between 12s1p of Samsung 30Q or Samsung 30/40t.
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Second step is to replace original ESC with Flipsky Dual FSESC4.20 Plus and I’m curious about two things: (a) can I switch 4.20 Plus to CAN bus single mode (4.20 has external switch for that) to have a traction control; (b) possibility to turn off/on motors (1wd/2wd switch) on the go is there any way for that? as this would help to save some battery and increase distance.
Will greatly appreciate any comments, doubts, ideas.
Battery died during an update. Now it’s stuck in pairing mode. Killed batteries and fully recharged. Lights on board and remote just blink slowly. Not pairing or responsive. Any advice is greatly appreciated!
Hi guys, I’m searching for a battery charger for an inboard M1. Can someone help me to find a compatible one?
Hi all, did anybody get the lights to work with the Vesc?
I’ve been wondering that too. I’m currently waiting on the flipsky 6.6 mini to arrive to fix my M1. It would be nice to have the lights at least just powered on. Maybe a little buck converter would power them just fine.
There’s also not much room inside the enclosure. I want to ask around and see if anyone with an OG ESC would mind recaulking their deck to read the voltage/current for us. I tried hooking up one head light to a 5v 850ma charger and it was dim. I heard the Vesc van output like 5v and 2a.
I lost my RFLX remote, i am wondering if it would be possible to configure another remote with the original ESC. What do you guys think?
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I switched to Dual FSESC4.20+ and custom battery, so basically no more require original esc, charger and remote.
If anyone has any m1 motors for sale please let me know!
Its a beast! Thank you guys a lot for pointing me on the right HW!
I successfully configured all of the features that was planned using dual 4.20 plus except auto start/shutdown, is anyone aware about some configuration/connection specifics to make it work?
During the test ride (with turned-off button) I was able to use remote and even break, but there was no throttle and no start of the vesc. Similar situation with automatic shutdown - it simply remains started.
Will appreciate a lot.
would you be a savior and sell me one inboard motor?
hey everyone im trying to hook up different motors to the original inboard esc because 1 of my motors fell off and ripped wires out while riding. im trying to use the hub motors from my Miles board but they dont have the white temp wire with the hall sensor wires. i tried to hook everything up except for the white wire and got no response from the wheels .can someone please help me?
Rebuilding a battery with similar cells. Looking to find a 3d model of the battery casing. I think @willpark16 has one. I have a 3d printer and ordered some 18650 metal spring contacts to make upgrading batteries later easier. I am trying to keep things simple so I dont have to mess with getting new electronics to work with it.
So my M1 ESC also fried a couple of weeks ago. Looking at the option to replace it with Flipsky 4.20 plus (which fixes the issue of 4.20 with 12S battery) or 6.6 plus. I have no intention letting the board go beyond 22 mph as this is for my 15 years old son. Would 4.2 plus be enough?
I also have a question regarding the anti-spark switch. I think I saw a guy on youtube saying with anti-spark switch, the esc will turn on itself once the wheels start moving and shut off by itself after idle for 10 mins. Is this true? So that means we don’t need to drill holes on the board to “install” the switch?
Last but not least, I like how inboard lights are integrated in the deck. Can we connect the light to somewhere on ESC so it turns on when ESC is on?
Thanks!
Hey, I checked with Flipsky and apparently we need the “Anti spark Switch Smart Enhanced 200A for Electric Skateboard /Ebike/ Scooter/Robots” for the auto start/off to work…
Hello, I got a new inboard M1 this summer and have been using it on weekends. It was working perfectly noting however that the range with one battery is quite short. Since a couple of days ago, I now have the remote that disconnects quite often while i am riding the board. To recover I then need to remove the battery from the board and plug it back in. The remote is fully charged. I am thinking that it is coming from the board that for some reason shuts down. Has anybody had or heard of a similar issue?