I was thinking… Can I bought this https://goo.gl/w6zvIY to only charge battery and discharge it with my Imax B6 ?
ps: Why and when I need to discharge battery? 
discharge is when you use your eskate your BMS can control the discharge to check and avoid battery cells to go under 3.3v
the vesc do the same - so you can use your BMS to control only charge
but it is better to avoid cheap BMS if you want a good balance charge of your cells
I doesn’t have VESC, I’ve a ESC X-car beast 120A , do it the same?
It seems clear, but I have to spend another 40 euro for the BMS … It’s not very cheap for a student 
whatever thanks for the tips!
Check if you can setup a cut of for your esc
You can try the eBay BMS – up to you 
[…] Multiple protection features: Low voltage cut-off protection […]
And:
Customized Voltage cutoff: you can select a starting cutooff voltage of 4,5,6,9 or 12 volts. Then using the up/down to the right of the voltage you can increase the voltage stepping up 0.1V between the selectable settings. ( when using any Lithium batteries, they must not be discharged to less than 3.0v per cell )
don´t rely on the ESC cutout. They only check the sum Voltage of all cells. So if you have one or two drifting cells it´s likely that they will discharge to much before toggling the ESC cutoff.
Ok, thanks. What do you thing about eBay BMS ?
I think you should just buy the cheapest you can afford now and go with it…
A lot of people dont use the bms in the first place
On the topic of your choosen BMS, look at this:
Lampshift maximum discharge current: 15A Instantaneous discharge current: 25A Charging voltage: 25.5V Charging current: 15A (MAX) Overcharge detection voltage: 4.28 ± 0.05V Overcharge protection delay: 0.1S Overcharge release voltage: 4.08 ± 0.05V Over discharge detection voltage: 2.55 ± 0.08V Overdischarge detection delay: 0.1S The overdischarge release voltage: 2.9 ± 0.1V Overcurrent detection voltage: 150mV Overcurrent detection delay: 9MS Overcurrent protection current: 30 ± 3A Overcurrent protection release condition: Disconnect the load Short circuit detection delay: 250uS
It seems like this BMS wont work very good for you.
Just search for one which is - Charge Only, and use a seperate monitoring circuit (device) to know the lipo pack voltage.
You dont want that your bms just disconnects after it has reached certain voltage or amps also. You might loose power in situations where u maybe most need it and it can happen accidentally.
So just be extra careful when you use your cells afterwards and please install a seperate battery monitoring circuit!
It costs like 5$ extra but I would advise to get a better one, at least for 20$ or so.
I can recommend this one, but it is a bit pricy, otherwise please seek similar options (which still work reliably)
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Cheapos are these but I hate buzzers and mine didnt work correctly… so I would just buy the better one
One more option (the one I gave u in the beginning:
Though, havent tried these, so you should find out how reliable they are, u would still need a laptop powersupply, in the needed voltage range… and u would need to glue the connectors into the charger.
can work, can fail - some are better than others… If you wanna be safe, spend a few bucks more and get a good one from batterysupport or bestech.
You use 6s normally because it´s cheap. Therefor, easiest thing is to use a imax b6 - cheap too and works really well. If you like to add more comfort to it, get the miami VGA charging solution. You could build one on your own. If you want to spend a bit more and really wanna use the laptop charging style, I´d recommend getting a BMS only for charging, because I don´t know any affordable BMS that is able to deliver the Amps you need on 6s. 60A is not enough in my opinion. If you wanna go that route, search for bypassing BMS here on the forum. Also make sure, no matter which method you choose, to monitor your cells. Use a low voltage alarm or some other solution.
But In this case sometimes I have to check manually the voltage of each cells ?
I already have this https://hobbyking.com/it_it/hobbykingtm-lipo-voltage-checker-2s-8s.html, it has the same duty?
yes, u can use that one, no problem, just make sure it is somewhat accurate and now when to stop riding the board…
At what level/voltage per cell have u put it?
When do u stop riding your eboard?
That’s a good ( and simple ) idea… I have to glue the connector to avoid disconnection during riding?
I don’t understand this part. Sorry can you explain me more? 
You can use a cheaper BMS, like a 6s 10A BMS, but then you can´t discharge through it, because of the 10A Limit. So you have to bypass it. How do you do it? Search for “bypassing BMS” here on the forum.
All topic that I found are about VESC and BMS so they are protected by undervolts. I don’t have a VESC…
He means that if you buy one of these cheap bms, use it ‘In Charge mode’ only.
Usually people hook up their bms in a way that it both helps to ‘Charge’ and also protects cells while 'Discharging.
I think you just need to make a parallel Port / Cables to your existing batteries, then attach Charge only bms to that side of wires, and you should be good to charge through BMS (also u will need to connect balance wires, so the bms knows the voltage level of each cell group).
U should now decide which route is best for you…
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If you choose to go with ‘portable battery charger’, then you will need to carry ‘dead weight’ around with you and you will also need laptop power supply to charge it
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If you choose to go with bms, the weight is less but u will need to make an enclosure to protect the bms module from the elements (or just put it inside of the box, with batteries)…
Here u also gonna need the right voltage power supply, but you will need to buy a special one, which suits the battery voltage directly. At least I dont know can you really attach 12v to 24v bms and expect it to charge up the batteries. Im pretty sure these low cost modules dont have step up converters there…
Ok I hope this makes it a bit more clear now.
So yes, route 1) just 50W charging module + laptop power supply of about 11-12v (70W recommended) 2) Chinese Bms with possible future faults (not balancing cells), disconnecting etc, which needs extra protection (from elements and shorts) + Proper voltage power supply (possibly ~25.2v)
U can look up how much such power supply costs.
In both cases u also need to buy parallel cable for your existing connection, unless you want to do it by hand and solder new cables to the existing ones.
What power suplly are u using now for your b6 charger?
How many volts it is?
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Extra info - Sometimes it might be a pain to connect batteries to BMS… Ive seen shorts, smoke and other nasty stuff coming up… be sure you already now understand which cables go where.
IF I were you, I would just buy that small B6 module I showed you and would hope it does not break because of vibration…
Then yes, just plug in the cables like you now do for your imax b6 and and glue the cables to the box, and in theory it should select the right battery voltage and start charging once you attach a cable of 12v from your laptop power supply (most easiest solution)
Look it up in more detail, im pretty sure people are using it on youtube etc… for reviews and so on.
I don’t understand a thing.
The two opinions are contradictory. If I invest money to bought a decent BMS ( http://www.batterysupports.com/22v-24v-6s-60a-6x-36v-lithium-ion-lipo-battery-bms-pcm-pcb-p-478.html ) can I use it for charge and discharge?
I would say - get this one and save yourself a trouble
They even include the cables:
Extra Weight to your board: 265g + some cables
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Costs about 12Eur and comes from europe. u will wait a month or so just to get the bms, then you gonna need to solder the cables or connectors.
With this thing you just plug everything in, make sure it does hold in place, and attach the right voltage as I said
It looks like it works from:
11 - 18v So you can use 15-16v power bricks from laptops without a problem and it will be even better than 12v power bricks.