Hey folks!
I recently finished my first longboard build and I’m getting too envious of all the posts of all the offroading mountainboards to not make one as well. This is going to be a project thread for my efforts making one.
I’ll keep it up to date throughout this whole process.
Goal:
Build a mountainboard with ~IP68 water and dust proofing, dual 6374 motors, and ability to sink 2KW 2.25KW through each.
I’m planning on experimenting with 3d printing my own shrouding/enclosure around the motor mounts I’ll be 3D printing the enclosure with either PLA or go big and buy some heavy duty print filament. Nylon X filament happened to catch my eye, but I think I may need to buy higher end extrusion nozzles to work with this stuff so I’m still searching for the best material. I’ll update this thread with pics and performance results.
I’ve just finished buying all the parts, and now beging the long wait for everything to get shipped in.
Get the unity. I have the flipsky single 6’s and they are problematic with voltage readings bouncing all over the place. I also have 2 unities that i still need to install in my boards. Besides the unities have more functionality. Much better quality as well. Just my 2 cents worth.
I hadn’t considered the weight difference between lipo/li-ion, but was leaning more towards li-ion because I’m familiar with it and from initial searches I thought it was more cost-effective for a build that’ll already be pushing ~2k when all said and done.
Im gonna cram a stick up someone’s rear by saying this, but in my eyes li ion are more valuable due to the metal canister to protect it from outside forces, and a (percieved/sort of real) longer operable life than lipos (aparently after 200-300 cycles, some lipo batteries only have 75-80% capacity Source.
Compare this to a regular li ion cell like the 30q which takes 300 cycles at 15a continuous to leave only 70% operable capacity Source
But for the average user, I doubt that everyone is pulling 15a continuously, just like not everyone runs their lipos into the ground…
Is the difference percieved, real or just inconsequential? 🤷
That being said I’m also going li ion, 12s7p myself
I just thought since you might be bouncing around and potentially flexing your battery pack alot, that lipo might have been a better option, but if you’re talking about cost effectiveness… I agree
So on most of my orders I add “draw something on the box” in the special instructions. I just got the batteries from Li ion wholesale and they pulled through!
Today the deck, bindings, and trucks all came in!!
The only thing is now that I can put the hard case on top of it… it looks a bit big:
What do you guys think? The main reason I got this one was because it was just long enough binding to binding to hold a 12s6p config like this 12s7p by @taz:
The hard case has a good bit of excessive width and height. Here’s an accurate proportion of how big the battery pack’s current config is inside the case:
I haven’t made the pack yet, so it’s config arrangement is still open for change. I think I really want to get a smaller case but I’m looking for suggestions on how I could better optimize my battery size/shape.
Haven’t yet done a full 100% to 0% but 78kg rider , 15/72 pulleys with 8" wheels does on a street ride (no off-road) around 20Wh/mile. Battery is 864Wh so that’s around 43 miles so 69km give or take.
The wheels and everything else have all come in now, just in time for me to go on holiday tomorrow!
I now have every part for the entire build ready to go and begin assembly, except for motor mounts by @Rithblu
@Rithblu Let me know when you finish making more Matrix II truck adapters!! I’ve already modeled out a belt enclosure that I wanna start test printing when I get back.
I think there’ll be some folks that would be interested in this; I’m considering selling fabricated versions of it or open sourcing the model but I need to test it with the actual motor mounts and get it to a point worth sharing.
