Killswitch | TB / Paris | Riptide Bushings | dual 6374 / focbox | 107mm flys

Awesome, I would def like to try these keys out.

Will it effect really sharp turns?

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On Wednesday i’ll get the thing on the road and let you know…

In the meantime, keys on my Surf Rodz (if you haven’t tried them) really only help - a ton - with really sharp turns.

The TB 218 trucks actually have quite a bit of depth/spacing between each side of the bushing seats. That was the one thing I was worried about before starting this little side project was that the distance looked too thin, leading me to think that they would pop out and get stuck outside the kingpin cutout between the bushings and mess things up…

But, the center hole is about 4 - 4.5mm deep… plenty thick enough to fit a key in, and keep it there. For reference, my surf-keyz are about the same thickness, maybe even less- and they stay put 100% of the time I ride, never messing things up for me.

I also think that if anything the perfectly circular shape of the cutout helps the centers of these keys to pivot just right in there, keeping them snug. This is also the reason I made the edges rounded, based off the diameter of the circular cutout in the hangar.

So… to answer your question: I anticipate these making sharp turns much easier, requiring less lean since the basic idea is that less of your lean goes to slop and more to turn, and surf-keyz on surf rodz work AMAZING serving this purpose on my other boards.


I’d call this one a success.

I set everything up just right the first time. One wheel was going backwards, decided to reconnect and reverse it. Forgot to read. Borked settings and one motor would stutter on the bench. Re-ran detection and all is well now. Just need to reset Bluetooth stuff to get the app working again, borked that too when I didn’t read before editing.

And my jeebers!!! I need to increase the brake force. All padded, slide pucked and helmeted up, this thing goes fast!!! Just as fast as I want it to. I haven’t pushed it to the max, only had 25% charge. But man is 1440W to each wheel a doozie. Charging it now. Anyways, shaky right now, but that brake force. It coasts slowly going slower when braking, which is better than I’m used to- I had to foot brake a couple times I didn’t anticipate 100ft in time.

SO much funnnnnn!!! AHHHHH!!! The insert keys seem to do a great job, this is the most responsive and controllable board I have now, analogue included.

Thanks SO much @barajabali, @johnny_261, @onloop, @torqueboards, and @psychotiller, and a couple more people I can’t remember off the top of my head. I’m in love now!

Hopefully I’ll post a video soon when I get the app up again. Oh yeah, @Ackmaniac thanks for the amazing firmware edits and vedder of course too :sunglasses:



Wife had me doing chores - didn’t get to get it fully setup until night but I had to try it out. Stats froze, I am pretty sure it’s because my wifi cut out for some reason… i’ll disable wifi for next time to see if it’s just me disconnecting that froze the stats:

I’ve since figured out the bluetooth module. My BT is connected to the MASTER! DUHH! lol, now I have modes working… easy to limit watts in the app, so I setup a beginner mode, economy mode, and performance mode with max settings. This is sweet… I can’t wait to ride more tomorrow!


Data Graph stuff I made from today: link to PDF

And below is a video of my first real ride with the board, now I realize the settings were pushed a little bit high. Thanks to community members noting the amp draw and voltage drop, I have gone from 40A per vesc in this video to now 30A max batt per vesc, and my battery seems much happier now, as you can see in the graph linked above. Even at 30A per vesc and gearing changed to 20/36, it’s still plenty powerful and plenty fast for me. Anyways, heres the video…


Big crack took him out. He will be missed. I’ll keep this thread and update with whatever board the electronics end up going on next- probably the demonseed that’s been getting no love lately.

Had I stuck with -24A I was testing out today instead of going back to -16A mid ride… No regrets though. Haven’t felt the thrill of roadrash in years, thankfully I had slide gloves and kneepads, only got a minor football sized scuff on my hips and elbows.


Sorry for your loss. Must of been his time. Must of been a HUGE crack.

More pics of the carnage?

E-skate can be pretty harsh on the deck, the drop through’s are more prone to cracking. Unless they are super thick, having a top reinforcing plate helps too.

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Yeah, and I knew about the crack too, I should have anticipated it. Regardless… Purging the weak- the demonseed is thick, bamboo, and fiberglass reinforced too so I’ll trust that even though it’s drop through.

Pics for you.

Won’t post pictures of roadrash, I feel like we all know what it looks like, it’s not too bad that it’d be interesting and the big one is close enough to my junk to be probably uncomfortable to look at. :hushed::roll_eyes::grin:


Transition in progress. The wife has my drill battery for the flashlight. Afraid I won’t be able to finish this as soon as I want.


On the carpet, better clean that up before the wife sees it. :smirk:


Cleaned up the carpet, got everything transferred over. Between the fiberglass and bamboo deck and heaps upon heaps of soft risers, the ride is a million times smoother now, and the long platform to stand on is wonderful. Going to make a few small adjustments to the mounts and add some extra dampening, but beyond this I think I’m done.


Changing things up a bit now.

First of all, after shorting and replacing my charge port, i’ve upgraded from my 81a 90mm flywheels to some black superflys. For $114 these things were a steal compared to other offerings on the market. Link incase anyone was wondering… thanks to someone else who posted this link in the forums elsewhere. I almost ate shit during some high speed carving on the fresh shiny thane- these needed some hard breaking in before they got predictable… so I took them out for quite a bit of hard controlled carving, drifting and light sliding to get them worn in the second afternoon out on them.

Second change i’ve made was to get rid of all those soft risers. The front riser is printing right now as I type this, both in nylon. I drew this up to fit snug inside the drop-through cutout… these things are rock solid, hefty, and have a tiny bit of flex when tightened down to take on the curve of the deck just right. They have about 7mm of floor all the way around the cutout to rest the weight on the bottom of the deck evenly, instead of the small contact points of trucks alone or the old risers I had on that would flex into the cutouts. Tomorrow I plan on riding up to the fabric store up the street to grab a couple $$ worth of black dye, to dye these to match the rest of the board… deep black!

Next… this board is heavy as hell. I couldn’t stand carrying it by the trucks or nose, or fumbling around with it like a normal longboard. So I made some handles… also printed in nylon (sturdy as hell), and plan on dying these black with the other parts tomorrow. This thing works wonders… balanced just right:

Another minor improvement… I got my belts perfectly aligned thanks to some ABS spacers, that add 4mm of space between the flywheel hubs and the start of the wheel pulley. They are indented just right to cup the wheel pulley to center. You can see them a bit here in green:

Well… this one is coming along nicely, and it will probably continue to evolve more from here. Riptide 100a pivot cups are on their way, a needed pair with the nylon riser attempt to reduce all slop. Griptape needs replacing, it is some old viscous tape that’s literally double-sided-taped to the deck because it was coming loose. I decided to keep my 1.6:1 gearing (20/32) on the 107s, and now 45mph is easy. Here’s a quickie pass of a friend going full speed on his evolve:


$113 for some genuine 107s?! that’s nuts. real nuts


Looks awesome man I love the new deck!

I have a vendetta and just bought those same 107s last week lol twinsies


i just bought them now, even though i don’t need em it’s a ridiculous price. Lol tripletsies


Horray, more changes- dyed all my nylon parts: precision washers, risers, handle. Only thing was that the front nylon riser warped off the bed, and I was nearly out of filament so I stopped it right after a few layers filled in the outer edge that interfaces with the deck- instead i’m stacked khiro wedges ontop of the partially complete nylon insert, and these things are solid… just as I had intended for the nylon riser to begin with so i’m happy.

Riding without soft risers reminds me how agile and responsive a board can be, it’s amazing… Things aren’t as buttery smooth now… but I feel super stable at speed unlike before without the wedge and soft risers taking away all my control.

I love how the black drop-through insert portions interface with the top of the deck. I really hated the bottom mount on a drop-through look. While it’s not aesthetically perfect, it’s aesthetically good enough for me.


Yep, I bought them, too last week. A guess the warehouse doesn’t always know what they’re listing, or mis-lists things, but in this case you actually get what is advertised.

Question, I keep getting ABS over current faults. Before I dig in, what should I be looking for exactly? On each vesc I am running:

Motor Max 70 Motor Min -70 Batt Max 30 Batt Min -10 Sensored FOC 10S4P 25r

The board never cuts out during faults that I can tell, I may have gotten 2 or 3 of these errors in the app over the past two weeks of almost daily riding… The most recent fault happened at 0 RPM, 0 duty cycle. The other fault that happened a week or two ago I thought was due to too high motor Max and min, since according to the logs it happened during breaking, but no vesc cutout. So, those got turned down from 80/-80 to where I’m at now, but it must be something else, since logs say I wasn’t moving when this happened.

I have a few adapters between my battery and VESCs… Could adding capacitors between my VESCs and battery help? Dunno how I’d fit them, since I’ve used nearly all my space in my enclosures, but I’d consider figuring something out if caps would help with this. Does anyone add caps between VESCs and motors? It’d be easier to adapt caps on the extensions that run from my VESCs to my motors in a 3D printed enclosure mounted to the rear. … ?

Finally, if this issue really isn’t giving me much trouble, is it common to get a few ABS over current faults occasionally… And should I be worried?

I got to ACE hardware right as the gate was closing tonight, so I kajiggered some idler bearings onto my torqueboards mounts with what I had laying around. I got some skipping on 15/32 gearing without idlers, can’t wait to try these out…

Do you guys think these belts are too tight? Think the M4 bolts will hold up over time?

With m4 bolts tightened down hard to stay straight, motors slid as far toward the hangar as possible with the m4 socket head in the way, and 265mm belts, this is as loose as I could get the belts. If they need to be looser, I’ll go ahead and file down the socket head to make room for more slack. Here’s some more pics:

Idler bearings fit perfect inside the pulley covers I made for the 20t motor pulleys :sunglasses: