About to start my first build. I intend to do a complete YouTube multi part step by step tutorial. Most of what I’m going to do has already been done but I am going to build a custom ESC/ receiver box out of kydex, it will hold everything including a battery meter and flush mount xt60 connection, as well as provisions for future changes like anti spark switch, other mounts, switches… And will be waterproof. I’ll post pics as I progress. Wish me luck!
Interested to see how the max 6 wifi goes, was going to buy the wifi dongle at some stage
That’s part of the reason I went max6 and not vesc.
Coming along, remote mod is done. Motors mounted, battery compartment started, waiting on epoxy to dry. And started making a buck for the kydex ESC box.
Finishing up battery box, 2 10,000mah batteries fit perfectly and I added a flush mount plug so the entire box can be separated easily if needed.
Just about finished up with the form for the vacuum forming, need to fill some low spots and round off the edges
Tried to do my forming tonight, first time I didn’t have enough bolts, second time was better but couldn’t get it to draw all the way down. Tomorrow I’ll make a press with foam to help push everything into place and try again.
Just to give an idea of what is going to look like once I get it right, it’ll hold the esc’s and switches, battery meter, and receiver inside and the base will bolt to the boards stock holes.
I see a lot of people trying vacuum forming which has its intricacies and nuances, there are other thermoplastics available ie: worbla, this can be formed with a heat gun and does not require a vacuum to form over an object.
The only limitations that it comes in a smaller thickness of sheet rather than your typical thermoplastics, which could have issues with strength but can be doubled up in sheets.
A lot of cosplayers use it for forming armour etc. I have used it for other projects and might use it for my e-mtb build
If I can’t get this to suck down I may move to an ABS or similar. I want something with rigidity to hold everything without moving. I think I know what to do next, just means I have to make more stuff. I’m done for the night tomorrow’s another day.
Suggestion, probz rubbish but maybe…, if you made a reverse of the recess mould ie a mound mould for the Max6’s and switches you could just make snug fitting faceplate to place on top of what you have already made in the above photo.
I hope that makes sense? im shite at explaining things but i think working the Kydex from behind so to speak could help gain the full cupage you need…
I figured it out needed to be 10° hotter in the oven, and I ran 2 shop vacs in series to pull down harder. Once I did that it worked perfectly for the top and bottom, now I just have to run all the wires inside and install my battery meter.
Nice work man, Kydex is a awesome stuff.
Let me mention one thing, if you use the Truck Bolts to mount the Rc-Plate you have to complete demount the Truck for doing maintenace on the bushing or adjust the preload on the Springs.
Again nice work! Good choice on the ESC ! They do what they should… never bring one to fail !
Edit : maybe just add two holes in your lower plate for reaching the adjuster screws
How is the base plate fixed to the main body?
I have small screws that will tap into the base and hold the top of the case on. Just keeping it simple. The way it’s made it’s almost a snap together fit.
Just took it out for it’s first run, at 10:30pm with a flashlight in one hand and my remote in the other…This is scary fast!! And the torque is mind blowing. The first thing I did was come back and turn the throttle punch down from 3 (factory) down to 1 and turn the brakes from 80% to 50%. Thankfully I had the foot straps on, I hit the brakes and had I not been strapped in I would have went over the front of the board. Next test will be tomorrow in the light. I’m super happy with how it turned out.