Yes, I know I did stuff wrong. This was with the V2 Hubs, not the V4/L3x Hubs. It worked ok sensorless but the acceleration was like I said similar to a slingshot. it was impossible to stay on the board. I attribute that to the high discharge rate of the batteries. Then I tried running with sensors but I had the wires in the wrong order. Wheels up the motors were spontaneously reversing. Then the VESCs stopped working. Having the wrong sensor wire order alone should not damage a VESC because its comon practice to use trial and error to get the sensor order correct. So I think the battery discharge rate had something or maybey everything to do with the damage to the VESC. I believe the sucessfull examples of Landwheel conversions to VESC have all involved conventional batteries.
You and I particpate in the same private thread of Landwheel VESC conversions so you’ll know if I’m incorrect.
I’m just trying to save @BearBoi the heart ache of spending $200 on VESCS and hours of soldering only to have the VESCs pop.
You are correct that the VESC’s allow you to set minimum voltage. However, the landwheel ESC’s do something special. They don’t just cut off at a minimum voltage, they throttle down the power well before the minimum voltage. The discharge rate is so fast on the landwheel batteries that it’s easy to overshoot the minimum voltage if you are accelerating hard.
The some versions of the V4 ESC had big problems with overshooting the minimum voltage. You would be accelerating on them and then whack! You would loose power so suddenly that the ESC woudl be left suspended in a single phase of the motors. The wheels would lock up as a result and the riders would be thrown. The lock up would not happen every time. But even the sudden loss of power was enough to throw some riders. The L3-X ESC made those problems go away becasue it was sucessful in throtteling the acceleration down to prevent the batteries from discharging so rapidly.
THe five minutes that I had V2 Hubs connected to a VESC and a V4 battery suggested that a VESC does not know how to translate the high discharge rate of the land wheel battereis into usable power.
So I stand by my recommendation that the landwheel batteries only be used with the L3-x ESC.
I know we are both trying to help. My experience says don’t use the landwheel batteries with VESCs.
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The VESC has two values, cutoff start and end. Cutoff start reduces the power softly, the end is the hard cut off. Its actually similar, you just need the right values. 
Do you have any landwheel batteries to try it with? I’m not saying that its impossible or that I knew enough to perfect the settings. I’m saying that its risky. @BearBoi seems to be on a budget.
On the topic of the Minimum voltage start and minimum voltage end settings – I never got the chance to deplete the Landwheel battery on a VESC becasue the VESCs popped before I had a chance to go anywhere.
Even if the VESCs did not Pop, I would have needed to strap myself down to the board to stay on it during take off. I managed to stay on for about 3 feet of Wheely before sliding off the back. The board was totally unsafe and completey unusable.
What VESC settings would you have changed in order to moderate the jack rabit starts?
No, I got my Landwheel hubs from a friend without the batteries, just the truck and the battery holder (which I gave him back since he wanted to fit a VESC inside). For a start you can set the VESC to conservative settings, like 30A motor max, -30A motor min, 20A battery max, -10A battery min (actually you should set the value half of what your charger delivers for security). Its also important to setup the remote careful, when you run the assistant you have define the range of the throttle, without it you might get the slingshot effect you described.
Thanks. I’ll keep it in mind if I tr again. I have 6 vescs new vescs to experiment with.
All very helpful information. Leaning towards re-using the landwheel batteries with very conservative settings from what you have said. Maybe even trying with 20A on the kit I swap for. Still deciding on what ESC to use though. The one you linked doesn’t ship from Germany to Sweden “Kein Versand nach Schweden”, other than that it looks great. I could order from Hongkong or China. But would like to ideally have all my parts by the end of the month, also that ups the cost. Found a Maytech ESC in Europe for a decent price. But they seem to have a bad REP on eSk8, and my first impressions of their website was negative.
I’m thinking my budget for an ESC is around 150 eur, including import fees and shipping. Keeping an eye on the used/new parts category here on eks8 builders, but haven’t caught any new posts these past 3 days I have been looking.
The hub tool should be printed tonight if all goes well 
my friend tried yesterday but had some problem with the extruder and will give it a shot again today.
If you guarantee me that you’ll buy them I’ll order the ones from ebay and put it in the box with the motors
That would be perfect PM me your PayPal (or any payment method you’d like) and tell me the total and I will send it in advance.
With this I have everything I need to get going, except a remote. Any suggestions there? I know i could get a generic 2.4ghz reciever and remote really cheap. Ideally I would like to reuse the landwheel remote though as I am used to the design and it is high quality. But the antenna reciever and the entire ESC has a full coverage coating on it. I haven’t seen anyone reusing it. Any idea if it could be done?
I understand your problem I think your motor is not able to take the pressure. If you have a guarantee, you can change it.
Nah, motors were fine. The trucks could not take the pressure. So the welding broke clean off and made the motor mounts act as propellers and chew up all the cables and have them burn to a crisp 
Hi! Did you figure this out? Would any 2.4ghz receiver work on any 2.4ghz remote? I have an evolve R2 remote, and planning to swap the esc for a VESC 6.6. But can’t find any information stating that I can source a reviever and the R2 would connect… Any help would be greatly appreciated
No. I’m getting replacement parts for the Landwheel though, so I will be keeping the regular remote for a while
So my only option is any remote with a reciever that is shipped with it? Such a shame… the R2 works really well. Sorry to hijack AND revive an old thread, friends
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But in your case you could use 4wd with 30A per motor and get a smooth beast capable of taking any hill 