I think you would have had much better luck with a Nut Driver.
I do have 2 fresh PU wheels. They just need a bit of sanding on the corners and they are good to go. As for the motors, as long as I can separate the cables on the bad motor it should be fine. That last part might be easier said than done though.
Also, yes. A nut driver would be easier. Problem is I don’t own one. And paying for a tool to then (potentially) ruin it is iffy
@BearBoi Here is something to consider that I only discovered this morning.
Your ESC may already be damaged if you were using it with a damaged motor or disconnected motor wire.
Just two weeks ago I built a 6 wheel drive skateboard with Landwheels.
I top mounted the third Battery compartment. I needed to legthen the wires to reach the hub motor. It worked great for two weeks, then I had motor problems similar to yours. I traced the problem to one of the motor wires having broken at my solder joint.
I resoldered it this morning but the drive was unusable. The motors turned but irregularly and they made a tonne of noise. I tested it with two different sets of Hub assemblies so I know that it is the ESC that is fried.
I just wanted you to think about this before you start shipping used parts internationally. It looks like you got to ride quite a few kilometers on your L3-x. With broken trucks, broken motor and a high probability of a damaged ESC, your L3-x may have exceeded its useful life.
You might want to to start thinking about your next ride.
@BearBoi If you decide to leave them be I would like to have the motors 
to check if they are dead. I will pay for shipping and if they are still usable I’ll pay you 50€.
Alternatively you could have the parts above for 50€ 
Thanks for the heads up I have admittedly given my landwheel a very rough life. Took some time today too further look over my bad motor. Looks impossible to get a good soldering, I can barely tell which is which and about 1mm is exposed even after pulling with tweezers. And yes your observations are correct, rode maybe 60 miles after noticing initial problems, and when they were severe enough to not keeg going, I unpluged the motor and went another ~20 miles before disassembly. A lot of which on rough terrain. Today I have made up my mind, I will take the expensive lesson and make a DIY board that I make sure to take good care of.
Planning to re-use the housing and batteries (I have 4 batteries) but change the ESC, trucks and motors. Still making up my mind of what to order and how to assemble things, and still learning (any and all advice is appreciated)
Maytech (say) they have a big sale on almost all products. Not sure I believe it though. Looks a bit sketchy and too good to be true…
Like this hub motor claiming to be a 60% price reduction.
Also I’m a web developer, making e-commerce websites is what I do for a living. Just looks sketchy.
I’m thinking all I need to import is a good Vesc compatible control unit. The rest I can find locally.
The bad motor is 100% done. spent a couple of hours thinking of ways to revive it. But the exposed wire is just too burnt and short, even after trying to pull on it. The other motor seems fine though from what I can tell. I would gladly send them for 50+ shipping. I just don’t think it would be worth it for you.
1 beat up (but working) motor, plus one seemingly totalled motor is probably not worth 50 eur + ~8 in shipping.
As this is my only e-board and the withdrawals are real, expecially right before summer hits. I will be shopping for parts and try to get a working landwheel/DIY hybrid
If you want to build a DIY, I recommend against using the landwheel batteries. The landwheel battereis have a discharge rate that is five or six times what most Eskate batteries supply. You might end up building a board that accelerates like a slingshot. That may sound cool but Its no fun if you can’t stay on. These were my results when I combined a VESC+ V2 landwheel hubs plus a Landwheel V4 battery. Within the hour, my VESC’s were also blown. Teh second problem is that if you to manage to put together a Working DIY, It may be hard to keep your Landwheel battery in working order. It just takes one incidence of over discharging the battery and its toast. The Landwheel ESC does a good job of throtteling down the power to prevent over discharge. I don’t think you are going to find the same calculations running in a VESC.
You might find there is a good market for your landwheel bateries from others who have working landwheels but no batteries. That coud help you to pay for your next board.
If you are on a budget, you might also want to think about a used boosted board. They last forever and there are lots of used ones for sale becasue riders like to upgrade to newer boosted boards or they decide they want a longer range than they can get from boosted boards.
You can spend a lot less on a used Boosted board than you can spend on a DIY that might break in a week or a month or maybe 3.
pk
Another idea: I’d trade a working used Diyeboard hub kit for the two motors 
For me that would be perfect 
what does that kit include in parts?
Do you want extra money in exchange? Just 2 Landwheel motors for a full kit sounds too good to be true.
It’s 2 motors and a special truck needed for this kind of hubs. 
the sleeves are swappable.
The landwheel motors are superior, but these are not bad at all. Lots of torque, 70kv, run with up to 12s and stay reasonably cool. Baseplate include if you need it, although I like the landwheel BP for the cable channel so you should use yours
Would definitely work for me just need to get the second motor off. Could you send me the 3D print files for the tool you made? I’ll ask a friend to print one for me.
I hope this works, never used that service before I printed it in petg. If you take my offer you could leave the hanger, I’d take care of it
I am planning to take your offer and sure, I’ll ship the broken hanger with the two motors, and the part that broke loose. Maybe possible to weld back in place with the right tools. I got the .stl file successfully.
Do you think the hub kit you have could work temporarily with the stock landwheel ESC before I buy a new one? (Either way I plan to swap it out eventually)
Hmm, don’t think so, maybe if you manage to find out how the diye hub sensor wires fit the landwheel sensors but it seems that the lw is picky when it comes to that.
My intent is: atm I have two broken lw hubs, one even massacred by me with a drill with your two I have a chance to do the rewinding (worst case) or I’ll even manage to repair the broken one and I have a running set of lw hubs again (best case). The diyeboard hubs are just getting dusty in my shelf, I had no plans for them since I got plenty of alternatives so with you they’ll have a more meaningful life
You don’t have an unused esc/remote laying around that I could buy do you? 
No, I’m afraid not but you can get these https://www.ebay.de/itm/FLIPSKY-FSESC-50A-V4-12-ESC-for-Skateboard-RC-Car-Boat-E-bike-E-scooter-Robot-F/264254495474?hash=item3d86cb9af2:g:mPwAAOSwKQFb4Y48 for quite cheap, overall experience here in the forum is really good, I run them even at 12s in FOC mode.
Have you ever tried them with Landwheel batteries or only wiht conventional Skateboard batteries?
Only with normal batteries. Whatever the lw battery is, when you know the cutoff values you could just put them in the vesc and you’re fine. Same goes for maximum battery current and charge.
Edit: I just read about your vesc experience @pkasanda you might have done something wrong. The hubs work flawlessly with two or dual vescs. If you ever want to try again I’d be happy to help you.Even a 4wd like in your case would work with can bus and one remote 