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LHB Scarlet: an entirely new deck for your ride UPDATED

This deck is unlike anything you have ever seen. Probably because it was designed completely from scratch by a guy who listens to a whole lot of industrial metal, drinks a lot of beer, likes hard lines with aggressive angles, and has some mental issues.

Now available at my new shop in 15 VARIATIONS!

Variations on finishes include:

  • Don’t Finish it! I’ll do it myself! $90
  • natural wood with a coat of polyurethane $110
  • stained Scarlet Red with a coat of polyurethane

Variations on modifications include:

  • No mods! I’ll do it myself! +$0
  • Wire Channels for Single Rear Motor (left and right varieties) +$75
  • Wire Channels for Dual Rear Motors +$100
  • Wire Channels for Dual Diagonal Motors +$100

Every deck comes drilled for old school and features a 26" wheelbase. I will also include a sheet of clear grip, a 16mm box mounting kit, and two fabulous stickers.

I DO NOT HAVE BOXES FOR THESE YET. But they are in the works. I’m considering options for both ABS and fiberglass boxes.

Enough talk. Here’s the deck:

and finally, here’s me glueing and pressing one in a record 13 seconds. I had a whole lot of soda this day:

You can thank @cmatson for the unfinished option. If he hadn’t told me exactly how he wanted his, i probably wouldn’t have thought about selling it that way, and its a good option for people who want to paint, stain, do crazy grip tape, run their own wiring, or otherwise DIY it up.

Thanks everyone!

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Nice job man. That deck is sick! I look forward to watching the evolution of what you are starting here.

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Thanks man! I’m always going to support the local guys who are doing it right- especially when their product is just so damn sweet :wink:

I’m looking forward to creating a build thread for this beast!

and i’m looking forward to seeing what you do to it.

the stealth angle design should deflect police radar, so feel free to stack several thousand watts on it.

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Just updated this post with better pictures, more info, price updates and a link to my site where i now have it listed.

@longhairedboy you know what would be ‘effin metal? a matte black option. White graphics on top center or bottom rear. Juuuuuus sayin’

WTF THE ACTUAL F*CK why didn’t i think of this…

That’s a brilliant option… and i think i’m going to call it BLACK METAL.

I’m adding it to my site now. I know just where to find the paint for that.

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@treenutter DONE.

Black Metal option is now available.

I’ll have to ad more pics of the various finishes as I produce them. I’m sort of on a pressing spree at the moment, i have about 7 decks worth of veneer i’m going to make decks out of this week. I glued and pressed one last night and another one this morning, i’ll be cutting and sanding them both tonight and tossing another one into the press.

Once i sell a few i’ll be ordering more veneer. They’re quick about getting it to me.

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@longhairedboy

do you have any pics of the black finish for the board yet?

Not yet. I probably won’t have a pic until after the holidays. With everything going on I haven’t had time to make one and shoot it. At the moment i’m just tying to fab a box for this build.

I can assure you though, it won’t disappoint.

Are you painting the boards or just using wood dye? Whats kinds of dye or paint do you use?

Spray paint and fine grit sanding blocks between multiple light coats. I look for brands that offer a micromist or other more advanced means of dispersing the particles. Cheap spray paint that drips, clogs, and sputters is no good, so typically i spend around $4-$5 a can. Valspar has a good one, as does Duplicolor. Duplicolor has a fast drying acrylic-enamel in a vertically oriented narrow spray nozzle that lays down a very consistent and even coat. I’ll probably use that for the matte black. It’s car paint, basically, so it can be had at autozone and a few other places and doesn’t require a top coat.

I’m also trying to switch away from brush on urethane to an aerosol clearcoat/topcoat but i haven’t found one i like yet. Brush on urethane is just too thick of a coat in my opinion and makes the board heavier, but it makes bare wood look amazing.

I’m in the process of DIYing a drying rack with a visqueen curtain that will allow me to put a heat gun on a low setting on the floor inside the space and help cure the paints better.

One day i’ll have an air compressor and paint booth, but i’m a long way away from that.

Something to remember is that at the factories they try to put the thinnest coat on possible and they use pro car-paint type setups. But you can get the same kinds of results from spray cans and fine grit sanding and polishing. You just have to work a little harder at it.

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@SpartanScrub Black Metal Scarlet is here! I’m working on a new process for gripping, but i’ll have that resolved as soon as I find my hammer.

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Black and red… that is my style right there.

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love the paint splattered look of the red!

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Thanks! I used a technique i learned from a street artist i met years ago.

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sprayed on a little thick and dabbed it with a sponge or rag?

Quite the opposite. Sprayed it on a paper towel and then dabbed it on the board. I wanted newspaper because it produces a harder, higher contrast pattern but the paper towel came out with a softer, glowier pattern that actually looks better in this use case.

There was a guy who spray painted alien landscapes from outer space. He used newspaper wads to make mountains, tupperware bowls to make moons and planets, sprayed into a paper towel until it dripped to make distant stars, and used a wet dab method (spayed on the surface, then dabbed with a dry towel) to make nebula and surface textures. this coupled with spray gradients made the most beautiful scenes. It was all so impressive that i stood there for like an hour just watching him make scene after scene taking mental notes for later. The guy was amazing.

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@longhairedboy that’s what I’m talking about! Nice work!

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