well if i ever build one with a back that size i will obviously have to have it in black and blood and it will have to be covered in chrome studs, possibly a black leather surface on top.
Dude, just skip the crushed glass and go straight for the bed of nails. Once the rider starts bleeding from their souls (of their feet), the board will paint itself, and by mile 666, it will be dried and permanent.
and ready for its next victim. LOL
I sense the plot of a Stephen King novel coming.
Lol, call it “The Board Room” about a professional businessman/custom Esk8 builder by day who makes evil boards in the middle of the night that can only be ridden once and sends the rider to Hell. The bloody, soul sucking boards are then nailed floor to ceiling on the walls of his evil workshop, like trophies. No one is the wiser, until one day, he gets careless, and posts a picture of his lair on a certain interweb forum…
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yeah… the cost of doing business… is the customer’s SOUL. Because of a deal made with the devil. Or the dead twin he ate in the womb, who knows. For every soul he takes, his business grows a little… until its no longer sustainable… likely due to the forum post… and then the sickest board of all comes to take his own soul in a final chase scene down a dark and bloody bike trail at night that ends in weird green fire because Stephen king has a thing with green light effects.
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I just ordered a roll of 85mm heat shrink, which will be one cell wide. My plan is to heat shrink each row of cells separately, bond them at the ends, then heat shrink the whole pack with some 150mm tube if it arrives here on time. If not i’ll just have two rows joined by a short 10awg wire. the 85mm tube was available in the US but the 150mm tube is only available form hong kong on ebay at a ridiculously low price, but it will likely take 10 years to get here.
Of course i spent the time to find and purchase the RED shrink tubing because it will add 20% additional performance to the pack, basically making it a 12S5P equivalent.
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@longhairedboy I ordered some black on off switches with red indicator lights. Will send you one to match the theme of this black metal deathroller!
this thread is turning satanic (im not complaining)
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Oriens splendor lucis aeternae Et Lucifer justitae: veni Et illumine sedentes in tenebris Et umbra mortis.
I think now would be a good time to get the fuck out of Doge City
Here comes the sun!! Love it
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Dies irae, dies illa Solvet Saeclum in favilla Teste Satan cum sibylla. Quantos tremor est futurus Quando Vindex est venturus Cuncta stricte discussurus. Dies irae, dies illa!
Wow that ones a little darker
Day of Wrath Is that what happens when the reciever cuts out?
Idk I’m just trying to summon a succubus
hell yeah! let me know if you need a few bucks for it. Do you have my address?
Got some things done this weekend as a few of the more basic items arrived in the mail. Trucks, bearings, hardware, and wheels all showed up Saturday and I had some Evolve pulleys sitting around waiting for something so i thought i would get the drive wheels set up.
I chopped the eveolve pulleys down to 9mm using a carbide tipped 10" chop saw. I put the pulley into one of my old flywheels and used a belt to mark the width in red pain pen all around the belt surface. Then i set up a fence on my chop saw and slowly went through it like butter. No melting, so no irreular edges. IT came out looking factory.
Then i did that trick i do with the caliber II hanger and my dremel. I took 18mm of aluminum off of each side of the hanger. This took me about an hour and if you do this, use the larger reinforced cutting wheels, not the smaller ones that shatter every 5 minutes.
after taking off that aluminum you have to sand the axle a little because of the different texture on it that’s inside the hanger. The bearings won’t quite slip over it, so you have to sand it down a bit.
Also, the teeth of the hub that fit into the spokes of the wheel are very precisely made for ABEC 11 Flywheels, not clones. I had to use the cutting wheel again to shave down the sides of the teeth so that i could press these guys into the wheel. Even after doing that though, they’re tight and took a bit of force to get in there so they’re nice and snug. The final result is rather stunning:
Also this weekend I finished shaping the deck and drilled for trucks:
and you may have noticed from the pics that i have mostly finished my new workspace and have started using it:
I learned how to solder upside down when installing those led smd strip lights.
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@longhairedboy I’ve got your address from the BMS group buy. These switches are en route and scheduled for delivery on May 4th Via e-packet from China, so hopefully will arrive in time to work w the LHBSBME build!
sweet! i’m looking forward to it.
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@treenutter also i’m thinking about hacking my fuel gauges i got from ebay to have red smd leds in them instead of green for the back lighting. I may tear into one of them tonight and see if the led for the backlight is easily accessible and could be lifted without too much trouble.
I went digging around and they’re all green, which is lame. Green is the slowest color there is.
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I hereby present the Conical Guide to Esk8 Color Palettes:
Red: Fastest Color available. Increases speed by 20-30%
Black: The Roughest Color: Black increases torque by up to 40%, and improves stick, acorn, and squirrel-crushing ability
Orange: Provides the deepest carving action, 15% more surfy
Green: The smoothest color; green is silent and mellow, reduces speed by 10% and noise by 25%
Blue: Rock-solid and reliable, adds 35% more to lifespan of any component
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