Nice one Peter! 180 and riding backwards… cool feature with your optional reverse function! Powerdrifts also FETT Funny End …
Duffman, This build is awesome! Im building a board now using MBS matrix trucks, but my motor mounts are not lined up correclty and also tend to loosen. These mounts youve designed for your motors on the 2wd race board are awesome! Would you be willing to send me design files/drawings for these mounts so I can try them out? I couldn’t find them on your thingiverse page.
Thanks for posting!
the motor mount and the truck adapter sleeve are included somewhere in the main assembly. But I also uploaded them separately for you.
Keep us updated about your build!
Hi Duffman, Your board is very good… :–) Could you share your VESC setting ?. I’m using VESC. but i have not found a satisfactory setting yet.
I’m running 100A motor max / 100A battery max but my VESC is upgraded with heatsink and better caps. Not sure if these settings will work with a stock VESC. On my 4WD board with further improved VESCs im running 120A/120A quite safe…
Have you ever thought of using hub motors in your offroad builds? I know that they’re made for normal 83mm wheels, but after reading your thread I really wondered what you could do next.
Small (and light) hubmotors will run with low efficiency on low rpm and because of the big wheel diameter you just can’t use high rpm without gearing.
Big hubmotors would have better efficiency at the desired rpm range but would make the board heavy and would lead to other problems like mounting the tire…
@eXo once started a hub motor based mountainboard build but ran into problems with his VESCs: http://www.elektro-skateboard.de/forum/elektro-skateboard-werkstatt-48/radnabenmotoren-fuer-off-roader-3849.php
Dr. Board also built one: http://www.elektro-skateboard.de/forum/gebrauchtboerse-78/verkaufe-mein-doppel-radnaben-board-2231.php
This looks like the perfect solution! Very sleek and possibility of adding additional heatsink (as you did) However I don’t understand how this doesn’t short the MOSFETs. Can you explain that?
The fact is: It does short the mosfets - which in this case is totally ok, as they all soldered to the same positive tab on the PCB:
how did you solder the heatsink? reflow?
Just saw, that I forgot to document how I improved my trucks:
After some heavy riding and jumping the rear top truck of my MBS ATS12 broke. I got it replaced by an new one but this one also broke after a few months:
So I took the DIY way and machined new top trucks out of aluminium:
These ones are are made of stronger aluminium and are also way beefier than the old ones:
This is a video of the machining process:
Hi Peter, your whole build is based on ATS 12 but on this photo (last photo of the VESC box on Feb 16) we can see channel truck. Is that the same board. I would actually be interested to see if it is possible to use spring trucks like Matrix with only a 15-20 degrees angle on the deck. Thanks
You are right. I built two almost identical boards at the same time but resumed to take a picture of my heatsink so I lend the picture of the other board.
The board of my friend is based on a Next Redux with around 20 degree tip angle and channel trucks. This makes it stable at high speeds but leads to poor steering and carving capabilities. After the first testride we printed a wedge to raise the steering angle to normal 30-35 degree which was much better.
So you can use channel trucks on 20° tip angle. Stability is good but steering is a pita. You can seriously use it on a 20° board with a 15° wedge between board and truck.
I’m also doing this on my big board (little black wedge on the right of the picture):
It’s funny that the tires which are called “ICE-SLIDER” have spikes. You have a total contact patch to the ground of 45 cm. But you have so much power that you still need spikes. I guess the human body is the bottle neck on this build.
Thanks for the precisions. “Stable at high speed” is fine with me as the plan is to have a cruising board for commuting rather than a pure MTB, so the steering is not a problem. But I have a flat deck and it’s almost impossible to find a truck to fit on it. What I was thinking was to use the ATS 12 or Trampa skate trucks (the MBS seem to be better to fix the motor holder) and put an angle riser to reach the 15/20 degrees. If I used a Matrix the angle would be very open, but I suppose it could work.
I currently have this board which is very stiff in corners but very stable and reassuring as well over 30km/h.
@Ackmaniac I only use these spikes in winter. The tires provide good traction on snow, but on ice you need spikes. If you drive them on concrete you grind them down quite fast.
@jga The mountainboard skate trucks should work very well on a flat deck. I have to use the hardest bushings I could find (100shore) and tighten them down almost completely to get enough stability. I seriously think about adding wedges to reduce my tip angle to get bit less steering. They are also cheap as hell, so just try them.
Inspired by @Nowind 's POM drift tires and long conversations with him about the best material for drift tires, I decided to give the craziest idea we had a try: Steel Drift Tires, made out of rings cut from a piece of stove pipe:
This is how it looks like. Driving these is very challenging, but as you get used to it, it gets really fun. Unfortunately the battery of my cam died to early, so it missed the best shots…
If anyone wants to try it, get a piece of DN180mm stovepipe, mark it every 50mm and use an angle grinder to cut it in rings:
Then simply deflate the tire, slide the rings on the wheels and inflate the tires to max pressure to get a strong fit:
The best anti-puncture system!
Using steel / metal for drift wheels seems like a nice choice for durability and not needing to replace the ‘tires’ so soon… I assume with some sort of ‘‘race track’’ made for this, it might be super fun… similar like some folks use drift trikes to go around in go-cart race tracks or such…