Loaded Vanguard | Caliber II 44 | Kegel | Dual 180KV N6354 | 10S3P 30Q | diyeboard Dual ESC

Hi there, After reading a lot of builds, and having owned a Backfire V2 for a few months, I decided to go the DIY route, so here goes another Loaded Vanguard build :slight_smile: Also, did not order the electronics yet as I can’t really make up my mind…

– Longboard – Deck: Loaded Vanguard Flex 3 Trucks: Caliber II 44º Bushings: Orangatang - Orange nipples Bearings: Bones Reds Bearings Wheels: Orangatang Kegel 80mm - Orange Lights: Shredlights

– Electronics – ESC: Dual FOCBOX Motors: Dual 180KV N6354 Battery: 10S4P diy by me using 30Q. Bestech 80A BMS 10S Motor mounts: 2x Single Bolt on from diyelectricskateboard Drive Pulley: 2x 33T evolve Kegel Pulley 15MM Motor Pulley: 2x 16T 15MM from diyelectricskateboard

Enclosures: Would like to 3D print but don’t where to do it affordably in europe yet

– Images –

– Questions – 1) I am using 1.25" Loaded Flathead hardware. I am supposed to tighten the screws until they enter the board or should I be using shims?

2) What type of drive pulley can I use to keep the green rims visible on the outside like boosted has?

3) Should I go the full diy route and build a 10S4P 30Q pack? What are the downsides of using the premade 10S3P listed above?

4) What advantages would I have in buying 2xFOCBOX/VESC’s instead of the dual ESC listed above? Is the difference really worth it for my build?

5) What advantages would I have in using Torque Boards 6355/190KV motors instead of the listed above?

Thanks in advance :wink: Joao


That ESC will work but it is not very good

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And get evolve pulleys so you can still see the green on your wheels

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When you say “not very good” do you mean it can fry or malfunction while using or that it will not be as smooth accelerating, breaking and managing the motors? I need to justify spending 450$ on 2 VESC + remote + enclosure + power on instead of 100$ for this inferior ESC.

Thanks. I found them here evolveskateboards.de but it says it is only for evolve customers… Do you know where I can find them? Also, are they as good as the ones that use screws?

Not sure about the first question, but yes they work just as good

It will work, but I’ve just heard it is not very reliable over time

they only work on evolve trucks.


come on guys. Just saying “it isn’t very good” isn’t helpful at all. Either feed him with information or point him in direction to find information, or don’t say anything at all. This is what forums are for, not just stating in supported claims.

To answer your question-

Yes VESC’s are far superior then the Chinese dual ESC’S. Use the search function, there is plenty of information on both and the differences between the 2. Off the top of my head I know that the Chinese ESC is limited to 30 amps or something, which will be a total bottleneck to your build. VESC’s, depending on what you get, can do 50-60 amps continuous/150ish burst.


Oh I didn’t know that

Hi, just got the evolve pulleys. How much should i cut off the caliber trucks to fit the pulleys? The video I found says 18mm. Is using a dremel a good ideia?: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t6V4nBUFeYk

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Any help please?

  1. What advantages would I have in using Torque Boards 6355/190KV motors instead of the listed above? [/quote] torqueboard motors are good you get what you pay for if you from a chinese retailer like aliexpress theyll be rubbishish vs a decent one like a torqueboards,miami,bkb…

never used those style mounts havent used the kegel pulley

Thanks. I’ll be delaying my build and get the best materials I can.

Really cool colour choices, I dig it! Got any plans for the bottom of the deck? I feel like you should paint it matte black.

And cover everything in some sort of ‘epoxy’ and make everything as water proof as you can so when the white is longer white you can just give it a wash ; )

Hey Joao You want to use a countersink drill bit to get the screws flush on the board. something like these:

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You could use these from loaded instead of countersunk ones:


Yes I have those aswell but they stey a bit out… I prefer the other ones to keep them flush.

How have you progressed so far? I see you got a little bit of misleading information at the start. Have you decided on motors yet?

I’ve always found that the deck wood compresses when the screws are tighened up properly. Using a countersink drill is a little overkill and expensive unless you own a set already. Just take care that the screwdriver head fits the screws properly and you exert enough pressure onto the screw head whilst tighening the nuts underneath, or you’ll risk damaging the screwhead X and make life difficult for yourself when removing them.