These enclosures don’t come with gaskets, but I’m sure they’re somewhat waterproof. Like I said previously, with the velcro straps and these tall 4s Lipos doesn’t allow me to put the cover on, so they’ll be exposed, but I don’t plan on riding this in the rain. I might just keep it how it is. I can’t really spend anymore money in this.
Scissors, sandwhich bags, and some black duct tape will do to keep the crud and water out until you can figure out a solution to the lid problem.
For clarity, i’m not suggesting that you duct tape the scissors to the board. Only that you use them to cut the bags apart and to shape.
Although having blades poking out of your board may be useful in situations where you are being pursued by a local war party.
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I have been meaning to post this for some time but forgot. I have used clevis pins to mount my battery enclosure on one of my boards where I wanted quick access to the battery box to change batteries if required.
I used a silicone grommet under the R clip to hold it and absorb vibration. the clevis pins were just drilled straight through the board with a tight tolerance, and countersunk at the top.
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I’ve always thought about the cotter pins. Great idea just like an RC car shell 
@lowGuido Do the clevis pins do a good job of keeping the batteries and electronics secure? What size do you use?
I have never had one come off or loose. So they seem to hold pretty good. The size is 6mm if i recall correctly.
Can you secure the enclosure down tight to the board so that it conforms to the concave with Clevis pins?
I’m gonna say yes.
having said that my enclosure is carbon fibre which has been molded to the concave of the board already.
They have this cool racing aesthetic. I want to associate them with pins they use on muscle car hoods. Do they rattle? oh man do i hate rattle. That’s one of the reasons i banned metal boxes from my garage.
No they don’t rattle. as I mentioned above I put silicone grommets on the pins so the fit is very tight. (blue in the picture kinda hard to see)
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oh ok yeah i can see the little clear grommets now. Nice!
they are blue… but yeah I’ll take some better photos soon.
Nice! I have some 1/4 turn dzus for motorcycle fairings i’m planning on using in my e-Chief build… I have a couple extras i’m trying to figure out how to use now before i get the e-Chief back and start working on it’s CF.
I plan on running a thin neoprene gasket around under the enclosure and also would want to avoid rattles! I haven’t gone so far as to ban metal boxes… but i’m close. 
Very nice! Looks nice and snug.
@lowGuido I like this solution a lot. When I was planning my build I didn’t want to have to unscrew 4-6 bolts to gain access to the electronics or batteries, so I chose an enclosure with a door. I’m paying for it with reduced ground clearance. These clips make me reconsider the choice!
Has anyone had any problems with overheating escs on a fully enclosed case?
I’m planning on 3D printing a case and unsure if I’ll need to allow for air flow to keep everything cool. If no one has had any issues I’ll be going for a water tight seal.
depends on the esc: the VESC and torqueboard’s 12s esc are fine being enclosed- I’ve used torqueboard’s esc completely enclosed (and so has @torqueboards himself on some of his builds) , and you see vesc builds everywhere with zero air flow.
but esc’s with fans usually need to have the fan breathing through a hole… check out @longhairedboy’s build as an example; you can clearly see two wholes cut for his esc fans.
@Mitch Yes you have to ventilate the ones with fans. @cmatson is right about the fanless ones, though. They do fine in a sealed enclosure.
I had two fanned 6S escs in an enclosed box and now I only have one. I’m not 100% sure that the lack of cool intake was the culprit in this particular case, but there’s a good chance of it so I wouldn’t risk it.
If you’re running one with a fan that claims to be dust and water proof/resistant than my suggestion would be to isolate it inside its own compartment within your box. This could be as simple as hot glueing a barrier between the ESCs and the battery/switch compartment. As long as no bare copper is present within the SC compartment, you should be able to ventilate the ESC compartment with some vent holes in the sides and bottom of the box. Just make sure that if any water splashes in there that it can drain out.
Thanks for the advice, I’ll be using the VESCs, so looks like I should be fine to have it completely sealed.
I’ll be sure to post my build and see how the 3D case turns out.