NESE, the no solder 18650 battery system

Hello there! I am planning on building my second board and I am trying not to make the same mistakes again which were:

  • Using anti-spark switches (mine gave out after a few rides) instead, I am going to use an XT90s loop key with a 3D printed case

  • Pulling power through BMS instead of doing it directly from the battery pack. I had and have a 40 A BMS, which wasn’t enough for 10s4p 30q pack and Turnigy 4000 W motor, It gave out and ruined 4 cells… If I use 3500w of motor power, then 3500W / 42V = around 85A at max throttle. Vedder based ESCs have an in-built feature that stops the ESC from drawing power from batteries once it reaches a specific value :wink:

  • Using a cheap, “Esk8” remote, alternatively, I was thinking about building some version of this ( DIY Trigger Style Remote with Telemetry - Complete Guide). (DIY the PCBs and everything else that I can)

  • NOT using NESE modules for the battery pack and 3D printing an enclosure for the NESE modules. I made an enclosure from an ABS sheet with a hot air blower and A LOT of patience. It is possible to do that, but it is VERY hard to make the top (or bottom, depends on how you look at it) completely straight, ABS loves to shrink and warp a bit when it comes back to room temperature after being heated up to change its form.

  • Mounting the enclosure using threaded metal inserts. It was a pain in the ass to align them with my DIY enclosure, because my board is not completely flat, and I couldn’t make the threaded inserts stay in place with ANY glue (wood glue, super glue, some epoxide). I suppose that I somehow messed up with the wood glue witch was supposed to be able to hold them in place… Instead, I am going to drill holes through the board and use longer screws with nuts that have rubber rings in them (to prevent them from unscrewing from all the vibrations).

  • And last but not least, using a cheap HobbyKing motor mount. It was decent, but it could be attached only at a specific angle which was NOT ideal for my build. Instead, I bought a proper, CNC machined motor mount from dickyho, it is the best mount EVER (in my humble opinion :blush: ) ( https://www.ebay.com/itm/303683617745?hash=item46b4f443d1:g:e2sAAOSwTw5bngI2 )

I think that I have figured out everything except where to get for a reasonable price, or how to DIY the stamped NESE 0,6mm tabs. Does anyone have any idea?

(Last time I used a spot welding machine and made a pretty good-looking battery pack, but I like the idea of modularity and option to switch out specific cells).

I hope that someone can learn from my mistakes and avoid making them themselves :wink:

I would appreciate any help with the matter! Thanks in advance!

Edit: I was mistaken about how expensive these tabs were and @agniusm pointed out that 10s4p battery pack only needs 5 “sets” of tabs, come to think about it, the price is quite reasonable…