It should solder nicely. Try using higher wattage iron. Soke the braid with tin and joind the side without foam
Iāll check when I get to my CAD computer. The DieBieMS box itself is a bit wider, but tabs should be standard width like yours.
Maybe the stl has some scaling issue. Iāll check and report.
No those are how you make 2s4p modules. Have you seen the drawing I made which shows how is done? There is 8 cells in each, and I cut all but one of the tabs in half. So the ones that are cut have 2 4 parallels. You run 4p, up one side, and once you get to the end unit that isnāt cut, you go back down the other way. Itās exactly how a 12s4p would be set up on a double sided module.
Cause of hes different setup, he actually needed all 2s4p modules and not 1x2s4p and the rest 4p+4p.
@gmurad Give me a shout and i can sort you out with bare tabs cheaper, thinking you need extra 5 full tabs? Will throw in some 10% on top just to get it sorted for you.
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Thanks @agniusm, I tried soldering again and this is what I ended up with:
When doing this I had to make sure to not add height to the tab otherwise you can short the caell (e.g.: cutting the battery wrap with the solder joint near the position terminal) and also would make the lid not close.
I deformed the cases a bit with the heat so I had to remove a tiny bit of material from the cases near the middle so it would close properly.
Definetely not as nice as the module that had the full tab but I feel like this will be reliable enough. What do you think?
Modules ready to go:
@uigiroux I can see what you mean, if you are doing a layout like this it would make sense to have them be separate 1s4p module(all but 1):
These 6 modules are for my HAYA build tho with the layout I described in a post above. For this Hummie deck I will do 10s5p with 1s5p modules that will print soon.
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If you got it done, it should be alright. Only next time pull tabs out before soldering and solder the tab with no foam. It does not matter where the foamed tab goes anyway and excessive heat can damage it 
So I checked and indeed the tabs were smaller(8mm width instead of 8.5mm). I have modified it to accommodate 8.6mm width tabs. I also created sheet metal cutting and folding diagram. Please feel free to share it they work out for you.
If people want to cut their own tabs, they can print the dbms_tabs2_flat_pattern.pdf file, paste it on a 0.6mm sheet of copper and then cut it with shears.
I have updated the files in thingiverse. Also, all possible design files are here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ATeKTxLQTCUiXwVCaII5497VeTQyPQhY?usp=sharing
Some renders:
The black sleeve around the copper tab is a heat shrink tube(or even 3d printed sleeve)
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@mishrasubhransu thanks. I was reffereing to your first folding template for my enclosure as i have fitted bms and dont want to reprint. Or maybe i will but if you could share the old design just in case someone wants it to have a choice
Thanks. Thatās what I tried at first but there were 2 issues:
- If soldering the tabs outside the case, when trying to put them back in place the solder joint would break because you need to bend it to fit it through the holes.
- Soldering on the side with the foam allowed me to not add any thickness to the inside. When I soldered the side without foam the box got too tight for the battery.
With more patience I could have probably overcome those issues.
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Make sure to set the page scaling to None(& not fit-to-printable-area) when printing.
The files is here:https://drive.google.com/open?id=1WD_qsyhnQy6mALq5JOPsZdnygj8wFheD
Itās called dbms_tabs_flat_pattern.pdf and it is in same folder that I have shared above https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ATeKTxLQTCUiXwVCaII5497VeTQyPQhY?usp=sharing
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Thanks. This is great.
All files have been updated and uploaded to thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/1865o/designs Now includes separated module component files
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Insulation pads are now added to the shop.
Are they needed when using NESE modules?
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I use them on my builds. Not all but i try. Its easy to cut through PVC on the positive and vent the cell on insertion if you are nor careful. They are cheap and always recommended no matter what you do, spotweld, solder(worst thing you could do to a cell) one NESE 
hummmā¦ for some reason I assumed I wouldnāt need them with NESE. I Wonder if itās worth buying pads, opening the modules, removing the cells and putting them back on.
And one more question to anyone really. Iām having a hard time finding ring connectors locally or amazon prime(I know I can buy them from china or from the NESE website) for both the main connections and the balance wires. Iām considering cutting the bus bar in half and soldering 10AWG wire to it for the main connections.
Do you guys think this will be reliable enough and sustain e-skate vibrations long term?
If you have cells in, dont bother taking them out to place insulators as they are for insertion only. Look for M5 ring lugs. Mouser has them on eu site but should be on us too: https://eu.mouser.com/Connectors/Terminals/_/N-5g5u?P=1yzslb5