please, tell me then if 12S and FOC is working… i just have 190kv motors and want to use FOC
Yes I had the 4.12 running in FOC with 136kv motors and 10s for some weeks without problems. The 1.1 controller I’ll use with 130kv motors and 10s. But I have no experience with 12s with this controllers. In general, the lower the kv the safer is the use of FOC. The new FW with Vesc-Tool is also safer for FOC than the old (2.18), there are some improvements.
Rich says just right the lower the KV the smaller the risk in FOC It is not clear to me why all unconditioned 12S want to drive? Rich says just right the lower the KV the smaller the risk in FOC It is not clear to me why all unconditioned 12S want to drive? In 10S I can drive 200KV and do not go to the limit In 12S I have to go down with the KV. If I drive 10S and 200KV then the engine turns at 8400 RPM / 58.800ERPM But at 12S I have to down to 170KV so 8568 RPM / 59,976 ERPM So I can not imagine that this 168RPM from the engine make up so much more. Ok, if I do it because of the performance, yes, I win per engine 500W more power But this should fit the perfomance to run no risk What I’m most interested in is how much further I can go with 12S With the same Ah in the battery. Is that really worth it? At the moment I drive with 10S and 18.72Ah 28-30 Km with my Flame Board. Once I get everything together, I’ll try it out how many more miles I will be able to drive
Damn just ordered 2 FOCBox’s last night. Didn’t even know about these.How do they compare?
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Out of curiosity how many amps could you pull out of the voltage indicator port? I ask to see if it can be used to just plug in a stepdown converter there along with or without an indicator
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well some people here use it and they don’t have a problem with erpm, since you can soft limit it in BLDC options, and exceeding the limits needs you to drive downhill faster than your board drives
just out of curiosity i did some calculations. More voltage means better efficiency, there is a point of adding voltage because the overall power of the battery pack is increasing aka Watthour (Wh).
Lets do some simple maths:
We are driving with a board with 1 motor at a specified speed and a specified rider weight. We are pulling 30 amps continuously from the battery. I will calculate with maximum charge voltage here and maximum capatizity (30Q = 3 Ah)
This means:
10S5P: 42V * 30A = 1260 Watt drawn continuously from the battery
lets get this same wattage from a 12S4P battery
1260 Watt / 50.4V = 25A
oh well, we increased efficiency by about 17-18% by adding 2 more cells in series.
Lets see what happens with our capaticity when were using the total amount of power 17% more efficient.
10S5P = 15’000 mAh 12S4P = 12’000 mAh
we’re using the 12’000 mAh more efficient right now: 12’000 mAh * 1,17 = 14’040 mAh.
this means were missing 1000 mAh usable capaticity, but we have 2 cells less than 10S5P and more output power overall.
Thats unfortunately not how electricity works.
In your example:
10s5p: 15.000 mAh: 540 Wh 12s4p: 12.000 mAh: 518,4 Wh
The Wattage drawn is what matters, so if you´re drawing 1260 W, that means:
10s5p: 540 Wh / 1260 W = 0,429 h = 25,71 min. till empty
12s4p: 518,4 Wh / 1260 W = 0,411 h = 24,69 min. till empty
So if you only take the battery as benchmark, you can simply take the Watthours to messure which one holds more energy and can deliver the same amount of drawn power longer.
For efficiency you have to consider much more things and look at the whole drive system.
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yeah you’re right, but still a system powered by higher voltage is definitely more efficient, because most people think that only capaticity matters.
thats why the range between 10S5P and 12S4P is not really that different, but people will still think i maybe losing much range because of the missing 3 Ah
Thats again depends on the system. The key to efficiency is to minimize losses. There are motors running better on 8s than on 12s. Sometimes it´s more beneficial to run higher Amps than Volts… there is no optimal way to generalise it all!
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we could not get more amps on the LCD plug like on all other current pins. Overall, you can load everything with 1A LCD receiver and all other modules
Hmm, assuming avg 40V, you get 40watts, isnt too bad, could run 12v1-2A off it
more amps mostly mean more heat and loss in the cables because of resitsance
Welp I just ordered some of these planning to run em 12s hopefully with FOC we shall see tho… 60$ cheaper than focbox’s shipped to me and even has some extra features. Hopefully she performs.
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i am going 12S but without FOC, if you want/can please provide some information how it worked