Yeah, mine works. Basically “green” mode limits throttle to 50%, “orange” limits to 66%.
I’m just using mine through PPM though. Not sure if the speed modes work differently via UART.
Also, not sure if you have to do an initial remote calibration on 6.6, but I used the remote calibration tool on my unity. If you do, make sure you’re in “red” mode when you run calibration.
Mine just came in too, can’t wait to test it and see if I like it over the nano x
Just tried the VX1 remote out on my commute to work this morning. I can confirm that it does not need to be recalibrated for each use.
The real world range is not as far as when I was bench testing, but easily sufficient for purpose. Full disclosure, I have a carbon fibre skinned deck, and carbon fibre enclosure… so yeah, my board is basically designed to prevent a connection between remote and receiver.
Throttle/brake feels good, maybe a little on the safe side which is a good thing, I’m just used to very touchy remotes. I was particularly wary of it this morning probably because my last two remotes were unpredictable little sh*ts, but I imagine once I’m used to how the VX1 responds I won’t even think about it. Every remote has a different throttle feel, so there’s always going to be a period of getting comfortable/familiar with a new remote.
That’s odd, i setup mine in the VESC android app in the red/fast mode on the remote too but the wheel spins at the same max speed regardless of the mode I am in…
I tried both PPM and UART and I get the same outcome…
Hmmm… I don’t know about max wheel speed, but it was clear from the throttle bar on the unity UI that slow mode is 50% throttle and medium is around 66%.
Do you think maybe the speed modes don’t actually affect max speed, they’re more acceleration (i.e. how fast it gets to top speed)? I think I might have read that somewhere.
I think if I held my remote at 50% throttle on a smooth, flat surface my board would eventually get to top speed. I normally push throttle to accelerate, then release it a bit once I get to desired speed.
Thanks for your insight 
I’ve contacted Flipsky and their rep told me that it won’t show during bench testing, will only show while riding the board…doesn’t really make sense to me tho…
I can kinda understand what they mean in the context of what I was posting above.
If you’re bench testing the remote, the wheels are spinning with minimal resistance. You’d find they will reach max speed with very minimal throttle input. With your weight plus the weight of the board the motors have to overcome a greater resistance, so more power is required to accelerate. As your speed increases momentum kicks in and you require less power to maintain that speed, and only slightly more power to increase it - yet your speed is obviously higher than when you first started. Then you hit a hill, and you have to ramp up the throttle again, even though you’re going slower again.
If the throttle directly correlated to speed you’d never get a smooth ride.
In your explanation, this makes more sense to me now, I guess the only way is to test it out on a ride tonight
Thanks Dave !
Would appriciate some info. Which option do I choose on the web site if I have a Unity? How does it connect to the Unity, is it just a receiver like the Nano-X or anything else that needs to be done when setting it up? Thank you
Is it possible to connect only to one VESC? And operate other via CAN bus. Have dual separate FSESC 6.6 config, with CAN bus between them.
To connect to my Unity I used the PPM connection. You should be able to use the servo cable that came with the Unity. To read the board voltage there is an additional blue wire that comes with the PPM wires - you connect this to V on the receiver and to the positive terminal on your battery.
Apparently the only benefit of UART over PPM is reverse , and ain’t nobody got time for dat. However if you wanted to go UART connection to unity I think the wiring match for the unity is the single V4 vesc. Full disclosure - I cannot confirm if this works - it’s just the one that gets the TX and RX the right way around for the unity. You still have to do the voltage wire separate - it’s the white wire which isn’t connected to the UART JST.
Hm, so in this case, I can not connect bluetooth module? Or it needs to be connected parallel as well?
Do you need to calibrate the remote every single time you turn on the board or you don’t need too no more …
Just read the top post, no calibration needed very nice 
Yes you can don’t connect to bt if you don’t want to, just connect using the traditional ppm method 
The only difference between Bluetooth and ppm is only the reverse function
I have just tried to ride it with different speed more today and confirm that it works 
but it seems to be just slowing down the acceleration and not limiting the top speed of the board 
So just to be clear, there is a Bluetooth module that comes with the Unity - that isn’t affected at all.
If you’re talking about connecting an additional Hm-10 module or metr pro, I believe these connect via the UART/comm port on the unity.
If you connect the flipsky vx1 receiver to the PPM/servo port on the unity, the UART/comm port would be free to plug in a Bluetooth module.
I recommend PPM connection for unity. Can’t confirm that UART even works, and all you’d potentially gain by using it is the reverse functionality.
EDIT just realised you’re not talking about unity. Sorry 
Looks like you could use PPM on FSESC 6.6 though, and leave the COMM port free for a Bluetooth module. Order the PPM wiring kit and connect it to port 7 on this diagram (on your master esc), not port 1.
I can confirm that this works as I’m using this way now
PPM cable for the remote and Bluetooth module on the comm port