16/36 107s 13s for me 
. Man. Can’t wait to see what your board can do on bigger wheels. You really need them ma man It’s good to have riders that like to haul ass @jasonbhuynh haha
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14s. No can defense.
I think that if the axle was really 4041 steel and the end wasn’t threaded, that these axles would be an over kill. The problem still lies in my mind that they aren’t what they said they were giving us.
I could do an adapter like how the six shooters are, where the adapter comes up over the hub a bit, so it rests on the hub not just those screws.
I am curious to race some of these 4wds that people are putting together now. I think I’m going to end up doing 4x vesc 6s to maximize my performance and reliability. Max them out at 130 motor amps and 60 battery amps each. 12000 watts total.
^if the battery limit were to be 80a per motor w/ 13S (48.1v), 4 motors, 240mm it can give 80mph… @evoheyax
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@deucesdown I saw the Unity passing 14S stress test and I thought about it, but I feel like the risk of blowing VESC is too high for an extra 2-3 mph. also 14S is not gona fit in my enclosure. I literally only have 3.5" of length for all the wiring, bms, receiver, BT module and 6.6s
@evoheyax yeah that would make the most sense, but i’m still worry about the flywheel adapter snapping since all the load of the 107 will be on it instead of the axle. it’s not the strongest geometry.
Not much time for ESC coding 
I have done motor control and detection, but need to cover it up with PPM, configuration and etc things. Probably will return to it after new year (Hard to code as the whole toolchain is windows and eclipse based pretty nasty stuff to code in)
At the moment, working on much more needed thing at least for myself
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^ @Hummie by reducing drag coefficient and frontal area, you can use larger diameter tires to get ever higher speeds (ie street luge will have much lower frontal area and drag coefficient vs standing rider)
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Was a holiday yesterday and have work today but should be able to get everyone’s to the po by later today or tomorrow at latest.
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Hey John, Just got the motors yesterday and I have two questions.
- Did you put the Japanese bearings in these? The resistance feels about the same as before.
- How can I rotate the motor? The wires are in a dangerous place. If the truck scrapes the motor will be ruined.
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If you look at the outside (look at it just like in my profile picture) at the inside ring (a small black circle) it should say japan if they are the Japanese bearings.
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Crap Didn’t mean to post in general thread, thanks though! Haha @dougpage I’ll jusr leave it for other people’s reference.
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Would be interesting to see if you can rotate the motor though
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The biggest issue I still see for mass producing these is that every motors wires come out in a different place. So you have to wind the motor for a specific truck so the wires come out in a good place (between the truck and the board). I can’t understand why John sent you a motor with the phase wires pointing downward… The only fix is another motor made specifically for that truck.
Or u can sand where the motor contacts the hanger n take it down a bit and then it will spin more and u can adjust the wires that way. All of the motors would benefit from having the hanger aluminum cleaned of paint or adding a bit of thermal paste at the connection. I didn’t do it. It costs less then 20$ for the tools to take the motors off n on and you can do that. I’m tired.
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Alright, I was just curious if it was as simple as loosening bolts and rotating. I’ll figure out something, not worth the effort of sending back anyways haha.
The bigger recess for the bushings on the hanger goes to the outside. U need an 8mm Allen wrench n a two pin spanner for s bike freewheel. Green handle. https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-SPA-1-Hanger-Spanner/dp/B001B6RJXI
They canceled school in San Francisco due to the air being in the red zone from the fire above so no work. have 5 more sets boxed and going out. USA and Australia. And have the week off and have about 1/3 of them still to get out.
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So in @Hummie s defense, I was able to flip the hanger to the correct orientation. Wouldn’t go together like that when I originally installed it, but with some gentle finessing with a large sledge hammer(kidding) it worked. Wires stick out a little still, but this is easy to protect now.
@professor_shartsis that works too. Protection is short term until I buy that bike tool to disassemble.