Super clean! Way much better than my first one 
looks like the @idea enclosure, right?
Have one at home too but couldnât make myself to install it yet 
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Good eye 
It is @Idea enclosure. Took about 2 hours of staring at the deck + enclosure and walking through it in my head and then 4 hours of actually drilling, aligning. Even then, couple of holes were misaligned and I had to make the enclosure holes a little bigger. The trampa deck is quite nice to drill. You get nice chunky bits of the composite material coming out. Quite happy with the results.
Now on to the scariest part, the battery. haha
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take your time with it!
and work only with a clear headâŚnot when you tired.
post pictures in the battery thread while building and let people here give you some tips.
will save you a lot of time and troubles in future 
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Yeah, I think I will take a day off today . Been working on the build for 4 days in a row and feel a bit jaded.
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When your tired or when your eyes are tired is when you start to make mistakes that can have bad outcomes.
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Im sure its a simple explanation, but why do the torque values go down in the esk8 calculator when series count of cells is increased?
10s: 
12s: 
I was under the impression that the builds only got âpunchierâ( wouldnt this mean more torque) as the series number increased, as well as other benefits 
also can I please have everyones opinions on using 6374 170kv motors with a 1:3 gear drive, and 160mm pneumies? Would you think there would be enough torque? I plan to limit the top speed via the Unity, as I donât really want to go faster than 30mph
Should I stick with 10s or 12s?
I donât think it would the small difference in torques would be that much of a change to really feel/see
Guys on a 10s BMS, B1+ wire goes to the positive pack nearest the total battery negative? or the total battery positive?
should it read 3.6v on the multimeter or 36v?
Yes, a battery always starts with the negative side, so B1+ is the positive pole of parallel pack #1 and so on. B10+ is pack #10 and the same as your positive pole of your whole battery pack.
When you finished wiring measure the voltages first. Mulltimeter negative on battery negative and with the positive start at B1+, then B2+, B3+⌠If the voltage is rising in cell voltage steps (e.g. 3.6V) then you are golden.
Always connect negative pole of your battery to B- of the BMS before you plug in the balance cables!
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Thanks brother. I figured out as much yesterday and wired it exactly the way you described it. Worked perfectly.
Just realised the only 42v charger I have is 1.5A and I am charging a 12ah battery with it. Should be done by new years eve 
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What are the advantages of a charge and discharge lipo BMS over a charge only lipo bms?
E-switch, over discharge protection, no need for a fuse
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is fuse the same as a âloop keyâ?
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Hes being funny now. Like him
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No. Loopkey is used as an easy cheap switch. A fuse protect your battery and esc from a too high current.
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oof. Back to more research i guess.
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That is the best thing you can do be honest but that wasnât what I was saying my friend. Andy goes into a lot of detail and that answer was very succinct. And his nick name is loopkey for a reason.
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Thanks so much guys. Final question (hopefulyâŚ): Would a bestech 10s 80A BMS work with a Vesc? If the Vesc is rated for max 50A cont and the BMS discharging 80A cont wonât it fry the ESC? Once again guys, thanks for answering these dumb questions.
nu, not so much to say about a discharge bms
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