For a 10s4p build how many xt90 and xt60 do I need?
For the battery itself, or the the whole board? For 10s4p, I wouldnāt use any XT60, only an XT90. Youāll need one female end for the battery, one male end for the board, another male/female pair for the loopkey, and then a pair for each vesc.
Iād just buy like a 5 or 10-pack, theyāre cheap enough that it makes no sense to not get a couple spares.
Make sure to get at least one XT90-S (antispark version) to use for the loopkey. The rest can be the regular non-antispark.
I am buying a bms with a switch, would you reccomend also doing an antispark? And how many xt60 for the rest?
I would recommend having an antispark. Always good to have a physical way to disconnect power.
No XT60s. Only XT90s. (Unless you physically canāt fit XT90s at all.)
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Just gotta pop into this convo to let you know that I donāt think Iāve ever disagreed with one of your points of view.
At least, esk8 related lol. 2 points for you.
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Got the parts for a 12s4p and a bunch of the p-packs got ripped apart in transit and I can pull the damaged packs apart with my hands
Should I pull apart all the packs to be on the safe side?
Edit: NVM I absolutely have to because they are all about to short out across the positive terminal
Someone please refer me to anyone near Delaware who can weld tabs to theseā¦no more than 2 hours by car
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Where did you buy this partially assembled 12s4p?
Bought it off gogomrrobot when he sold all his skateboard stuff last week, all the cells are now isolated and boxed untill I find someone to weld them for me or I make a battery box
@MysticalDork is old-school and is typically always correct when he chimes-in. Definitely knows his stuff.
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Mostly always correct when I chime in. Sometimes Iām a damn fool, but I try to keep that side of myself off the internet as much as possible 
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What gap between the motor mount and wheel do you need for a 15mm pulley setup? I got 18.5mm according to CAD as a best case scenario
Depends on the exact wheel and pulley. Most wheel pulleys have a flange that adds maybe 1.5-2mm or so. You should have room, barely.
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Usually yes you void warrenty with ist @Mainsedora but on APS motors you will more likely have problems with lose magnets or the retainer ring and in this case they will sent you anyhow only a new bell.
Hi guys,
Sorry for the bad resolution of the photo: thatās the epoxied terminals of a female jst 2.0 foc sensor connector. I CF skinned the upper part of my deck but somehow the epoxy went through the shrink wrap and made the disaster. I managed to remove the plastic holder but as you may see terminals are pretty good encapsulated. Gap filling epoxy is like love: it will always find the way 
.
Any advice how to solve the problem? Epoxy remover (which one?) + hot gun? Or should I remove the terminals and crimp new ones?
Iād need to see more pics of the problem, but Iād probably drill the entire thing out, connector, epoxy, and everything, and epoxy new connectors in there.
Instead of gap-filling epoxy, try JB Weld 8265-S
Hii guys!
Would this work for between the p-groups?
Please at a minimum, fill out your āCountryā on your profile because many answers to be offered may be different, depending on where you are.
thanks b264, I think you are right, but I never crimped JST terminals and Iām afraid that a less than perfect job, due to the intense vibrations the eskate will be subjected to, will cause later problems. Crimping is it doable by a noob?
JB Weld 8265-S. Good idea, thanks
I would make sure it all works first, then seal around the connectors with epoxy or something to lock them in
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