It wonโt. They have very low discharge ability and the range is pretty bad. Out of necessity, I have been using two of these in parallel on one of my boards and even then they are pretty bad.
Never skimp on your battery. It drags everything else down.
The ESC is also bad. Very outdated. Power is good but brakes are terrible. Hub motors will be fine, though.
Seriously, just buy a complete Meepo V3 and youโll be better off. A 10s2p of good cells is better than a 10s4p of crap cells.
Thanks for the reply.
If it isnโt too much to ask - can you provide a brief explanation of how you know the battery has low discharge and bad range? Iโm curious because I want to understand how to purchase a good battery.
One of the reasons I wanted to try DIY is because I purchased a benchwheel in 2016 and it broke - I donโt know how to fix it. Being more involved with putting the board together will give me more confidence to get back into the hobby. Iโd otherwise be discouraged with breaking all the boards I buy and getting new ones. For example, if the battery is broke and I need to replace it, knowing what to look for when purchasing batteries would be much cheaper than buying a new board entirely.
Iโm willing to read links to resources if you know any - tbh Iโm not the best reader, so anything simple and easy to understand would be best.
Two ways to know:
The price. You wonโt get a new 10s4p battery with quality cells (like Samsung 30Q) and a proper bypass BMS for less than $400 USD.
I have two of this exact battery pack. In 10s8p configuration, I get decent amps and nothing more, and they sag really early. Iโm building a new battery and when itโs done, these batteries will be retired for good.
The reason you want to spend the most on your battery is that itโs the literal heart of your board. With a poor battery, your ESC and motors never reach their true potential.
Another DIY lesson I have learned by painful experience is not to throw good money after bad. Fixing your Benchwheel is an example of this. Better to move on to a stronger platform as soon as youโre able.
Hey, noob electrical questions for you all:
Iโm building my first battery pack (12s5p) from 21700-40T cells and Iโm coming across some issues with the type of conductors I should be using. Questions below:
Spot welding: my plan to reach the required ampacity of the series connections for my battery pack (175A continuous discharge current) is to layer 5 x 0.2mm thick x 10mm wide nickel strip (each capable of 7.9A each x 5 series connections x 5 layers = 197.5A). I have found other sources using 2x layers. Iโve also heard that as resistivity decreases with increasing layers of conductors, it becomes more challenging to spot weld (requiring more power). Do you have any any experience with this and know if using so many layers will work/be the best way to create high current conductors for the pack? Every source I can find says to avoid soldering wire to the packs (which would be an easy way of addressing the current capacity issue), what are your thoughts on soldering a higher ampacity conductor onto a spot welded nickel strip (or two)?
Main circuit conductor: for the wire gage Iโve decided to go with 10AWG. This is commonly used in other builds I have seen and seems to be a readily available and relatively cheap wire gage. My issue however is that despite other people claiming in their builds that their packs are capable of high current draw, the use of the 10AWG wire would seem to limit the pack to ~30A continuous discharge. Am I missing something here? Do I in fact need to use a higher gage wire to achieve my higher amp draw? My motors seem to be the limiting factor in my system (drawing max 65A CC * 2 = 130A). My intuition tells me that my conductor should be capable of safely delivering this amount of current, but looking at other builds no one Iโve seen uses conductors capable of carrying this much current. Do you have any thoughts on why this may be, or a good solution for a conductor to use (wire type/gage/etc.)?
Lastly, if anyone has good recommendations for a reputable supplier/source for 0.2mm thick 10mm wide nickel strip, a spot welder that can weld it, 10AWG copper wire, and a BMS terminal block (13 ports) Iโd appreciate a link.
Attaching my wiring diagram for reference below.
Thanks in advance for any help!
Sorry for adding this question in this thread, as the other thread you posted in that Iโm referring to doesnโt allow new comments. Hereโs the threadโฆ
Hereโs the quote of yours my question of yours relates toโฆ
โ๐โ๐ฆ ๐ฌ๐จ๐ซ๐ซ๐ฒ ๐ข๐ ๐ข๐ญ ๐๐ข๐, ๐ ๐ญ๐จ๐จ๐ค ๐ฆ๐ฒ ๐ญ๐ฐ๐จ ๐ฌ๐๐ฆ๐๐ฌ๐ญ๐๐ซ๐ฌ ๐จ๐ ๐๐๐ฅ๐๐ฎ๐ฅ๐ฎ๐ฌ ๐ ๐ฒ๐ซ. ๐๐ง๐ ๐ ๐ก๐๐ฅ๐ ๐๐ ๐จ, ๐ฌ๐จ ๐โ๐ฆ ๐๐จ๐ง๐๐ข๐๐๐ง๐ญ. ๐๐ก๐๐ซ๐ ๐ข๐ฌ ๐ ๐๐จ๐ซ๐ซ๐๐๐ญ ๐๐ง๐ ๐ข๐ง๐๐จ๐ซ๐ซ๐๐๐ญ ๐ฐ๐๐ฒ ๐ญ๐จ ๐ฌ๐ฉ๐๐๐ค ๐๐๐จ๐ฎ๐ญ ๐๐ง ๐จ๐๐ฃ๐๐๐ญ๐ฌ ๐ฌ๐ข๐ณ๐ ๐ข๐ง ๐ซ๐๐ฅ๐๐ญ๐ข๐จ๐ง ๐ญ๐จ ๐๐ง๐จ๐ญ๐ก๐๐ซ ๐จ๐๐ฃ๐๐๐ญ. ๐๐ ๐ข๐ญ ๐ข๐ฌ ๐ง๐จ๐ญ ๐ฌ๐ญ๐๐ง๐๐๐ซ๐๐ข๐ณ๐๐ ๐ฐ๐ ๐๐๐ง ๐ง๐จ๐ญ ๐๐จ๐ฆ๐ฉ๐๐ซ๐.โ
Out of curiosity, I have a question for you: If I earned 100k a year at one job, then quit that job and got a new job making 200k a year, by what percentage did my annual income increase?
Because 100k is 50% of 200k, does this mean that i enjoyed a 50% increase in my income?
I take it you must have looked at the original thread and realized that my question was rhetorical?
Yeah. I thought you were also confused, but then realized you were just frustrated and jabbing at the other guy.
has anyone tried this drivetrain?
Iโd love to know the Kv of that motor. The rim looks like the perfect size for funwheels. That should fit these tires:
@Fungineers would know how to identify a hub like the old phubs.
You probably can find it on peipei Phub500?
Side tracked but they also got this now US $359.00 | Refit kart,sled,ATV accessories,rear axle PCS-45
More economical and smaller US $35.00 | Snow Blower Rubber Track Snow Sweeper Kids Go Kart Karting UTV Buggy Quad ATV Snow Sand Snowmobile Caterpillar Tracks I could see these on an esk8
Nvm Muhammad that was easy US $159.00 | 15inch 15 inch widen tire 15x6.00-6 tyre BLDC brushless non-gear hub wheel motor for scooter phub-181
Isnโt there the problem where this will not have bead locking and would only be rim locking, and the valve stem hole.
Well, because itโs more than obvious that perspective makes a difference regarding this issue, so I suspect that he knows that too, but was just trying to be argumentative (although I could be wrong). So I attempted to form my questions in such a way as to trap him.
I am interested in my first construction of an Elongboard. some research I chose to set up.
Board - 41โโ Pulleys - 15/36t belt 15mm Wheels 90mm
Motor - single Flipsky R 6374 190KV 3250W
Only US$78.99, buy best flipsky r 6374 190kv 3250w brushless sensored motor shaft 8mm for electric skateboard rc car sale online store at wholesale price.
FSVESC V4.12 50a
Compre Fรกcil, Viva Melhor! Aliexpress.com
Anti-Spark swit Maytech mts1810as interruptor anti-faรญsca 12s 180a
Compre Fรกcil, Viva Melhor! Aliexpress.com
Did I make a good choice ?? It will work?
Battery-
IDONT NO kkkkkk What do you suggest? pack 12s6p from asia, itโs absurd 521U $ on Alibaba in Brazil this is a PS4 kkk Absurd kkk โฆ
I still think I can buy 30q cells from Asia and mount them here, how much would be a good value to run 15 - 20 Km 17km / h -33km / h
Better to use Lipo?
if you can get the 6S tattu lipos those are good.
I would get a battle hardened flipsky
Hei thanks man No more than lipo 6s? I want to use it safely, not destroying the electrical part
A loopkey is a lot cheaper than an antispark and super reliable (as long as you plug it in all the way)
I will remember that in the next construction. I want to be very careful with the electrical part, I bought the antispark for that. 6s Tattu is one thoused fuckin BR $. itโs heavy, with that value a little more I build a pack of 12s6p 30q
