Looks pretty good and a perfect fit for the unity.
Yes, itās perfect, I had thought about buying a pelican but I found this box and it fits perfectly, I should have a new one but I can not find it
@venom121212 @briman05 @Andy87
Done 
Used threaded inserts and a drillbit collar so got perfect size holes. Cant see jack shit on the top of the deck.
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Looks good man
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I am just finishing my first build, and I have run into an issue with my FireFly remoteā¦
The problem is, that as soon pull the remote over ~12% flipsky dual 6.6 goes to full throttle (see video)
How can I fix this?
Thanks in advance
It sounds like you need to configure the min/max settings on your hall sensor. You might have to go tinker with your software code to get it right.
Hereās a link to a potential problem in the remoteās thread. I havenāt completed my remote, so I canāt give you much more than that as Iām not 100% positive myself.
I would edit my post but Iām not sure youād get a notification. I was tinkering around with my remote, since I do have that completed. You can edit your min/max and center on the settings. Try messing around with that and see if that fixes anything. In the link I posted above, solidgeek mentions the range of those numbers. Hopefully this should solve your problem.
Super clean! Way much better than my first one 
looks like the @idea enclosure, right?
Have one at home too but couldnāt make myself to install it yet 
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Good eye It is @Idea enclosure. Took about 2 hours of staring at the deck + enclosure and walking through it in my head and then 4 hours of actually drilling, aligning. Even then, couple of holes were misaligned and I had to make the enclosure holes a little bigger. The trampa deck is quite nice to drill. You get nice chunky bits of the composite material coming out. Quite happy with the results.
Now on to the scariest part, the battery. haha
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take your time with it!
and work only with a clear headā¦not when you tired.
post pictures in the battery thread while building and let people here give you some tips.
will save you a lot of time and troubles in future 
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Yeah, I think I will take a day off today . Been working on the build for 4 days in a row and feel a bit jaded.
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When your tired or when your eyes are tired is when you start to make mistakes that can have bad outcomes.
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Im sure its a simple explanation, but why do the torque values go down in the esk8 calculator when series count of cells is increased?
10s: 
12s: 
I was under the impression that the builds only got āpunchierā( wouldnt this mean more torque) as the series number increased, as well as other benefits 
also can I please have everyones opinions on using 6374 170kv motors with a 1:3 gear drive, and 160mm pneumies? Would you think there would be enough torque? I plan to limit the top speed via the Unity, as I donāt really want to go faster than 30mph
Should I stick with 10s or 12s?
I donāt think it would the small difference in torques would be that much of a change to really feel/see
Guys on a 10s BMS, B1+ wire goes to the positive pack nearest the total battery negative? or the total battery positive?
should it read 3.6v on the multimeter or 36v?
Yes, a battery always starts with the negative side, so B1+ is the positive pole of parallel pack #1 and so on. B10+ is pack #10 and the same as your positive pole of your whole battery pack.
When you finished wiring measure the voltages first. Mulltimeter negative on battery negative and with the positive start at B1+, then B2+, B3+ā¦ If the voltage is rising in cell voltage steps (e.g. 3.6V) then you are golden.
Always connect negative pole of your battery to B- of the BMS before you plug in the balance cables!
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Thanks brother. I figured out as much yesterday and wired it exactly the way you described it. Worked perfectly.
Just realised the only 42v charger I have is 1.5A and I am charging a 12ah battery with it. Should be done by new years eve 
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What are the advantages of a charge and discharge lipo BMS over a charge only lipo bms?
E-switch, over discharge protection, no need for a fuse
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