Noob question thread! 😀 ask your questions here!

sophiethea · August 16, 2020, 4:42am

2020-08-15T14:00:00Z

I have a Fiik Street Surfer electric skateboard with a battery that won’t charge. A replacement battery is several hundred dollars so looking for a way to reuse these batteries.

Anyone have any suggestions?

Blitz · August 16, 2020, 10:25am

A battery is a battery.

Lithium ion batteries are a battery with much better energy density.

in any case do your math to be sure it fits in the parameters required by the device.

issues with lead acid can be weird charge ranges but it really depends as some car ones only move from 40-70% charge not a 1-100.

b264 · August 21, 2020, 5:43am

use the esk8 conductor current ratings chart to see what you need to get your 30A

It needs to support that in every place. But if you are going through 2 pieces of nickel, then each piece only needs to support half that, et cetera

RatherBeSkating · August 21, 2020, 8:25pm

I just orders my FIRST build. I’ll be rockin dual fsesc 6.6 and 6384 flipsky 190kv 4000w motors. My question is this, I have ordered TWO 18650 36v 10s4p battery packs with bms charging, should I make it where I can “hot swap” the battery when it runs out or maybe wire both packs in parallel for more overall usage times OR could I wire them together in series for a monstrous trail beast? I’m not sure being this is my FIRST build and id like to get it right, how does one fully utilize the overall 8000 watts that my motors have? Any help would be great! I can upload and list all parts used if needed!!!

TimBilliet1 · August 21, 2020, 10:22pm

you can use nickel strip for parallel connections and then wire or flat braided wire for the series connections, this makes it also flexible depending how you do it

TimBilliet1 · August 21, 2020, 10:24pm

you mean paralell? Series will make it 20S. Those escs can’t handle that. If you make a hotswappable one you’ll have to open the enclosure every time

RatherBeSkating · August 21, 2020, 10:35pm

So could I just wire positive to positive and negative to negative, for longer battery life?

galoshes · August 22, 2020, 2:32pm

slightly different tack: how do I attach a Flipsky 4.12 vesc to either the wooden deck or the (yet to be purchased) enclosure? I’ve read a lot about using velcro or double sided tape to either deck or enclosure but the vesc is not shrink wrapped in any way for the velcro or tape to attach to. This would surely leave the fixing method attaching straight to the board or electrics. I’m confused. Thanks! (as you can tell I’m very new to all this. I have all my electronics etc working so I’m on the final strait of getting my build done so quite excited)

JayCurtis502 · September 4, 2020, 1:35pm

I have a Flipsky dual 6.6 plus fsesc with a Flipsky Vx2 remote. The battery level indicator for the skateboard battery on my vx2 remote display is not reading accurately. How can I get an accurate battery reading on the remote screen with the vx2 and dual 6.6 plus fsesc?

Allrounder · September 9, 2020, 6:25am

Hey I need help and dont under stand any of this stuff this is for a engineering class in high school and I’m trying to build a one wheel where the wheel powers a different battery so u can have like tao batteries

ESK8Builder777X · September 14, 2020, 2:00pm

hey guys! I made a ESK8 already a while ago and put it away for about a year now. So i got into ESK8 Stuff again, and wanna replace my old 6S 5500 mAh LiPo battery, with a new custom made 6S5P battery! i already ordered all the things i need, and also the vruzend 2.1 kit, cuz i don’t have a spotwelder by now…wanna give it a try! Cells are 30x 18650 30Q 15A 3000mAh, and a 60A (180A Peak) BMS.

I made today with Powerpoint a simple schematic about the wiring.

and i just wanna ask, if that is working with the amps (max 60A, ESC handles not more than that)

My BMS has only P- and B-, so no C- ! Capture

Thank’s for answering my question! I’ll post some pictures, when the Cells arrive!

Jake91321 · October 2, 2020, 3:10am

$49.99 USD

Battery Percentage Indicator

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$9.99 USD

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Price

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Electric Skateboard Motor 6380 190KV

$135.00

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$135.00

FLIPSKY FSESC 6.6 based upon VESC® 6 with Aluminum Case

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havocinfinity · October 2, 2020, 3:22am

Hey - noob here, I’m thinking of building a relative cheap board. My requirements are:

mediocre speed 20-25mph
good mileage 18+
90mm+ dual hub motors
as cheap as possible lol

My problem is idk how to get the esc-motor-battery to all be compatible. If anyone has a guide somewhere, please let me know!

Right now I’m looking at these:

would these work together? I’m pretty set on the 10s4p battery because I think it fits my speed & range requirements, but I’m not sure about the esc and motor.

BillGordon · October 2, 2020, 3:07pm

Never MBoards anything.

BillGordon · October 2, 2020, 3:12pm

It won’t. They have very low discharge ability and the range is pretty bad. Out of necessity, I have been using two of these in parallel on one of my boards and even then they are pretty bad.

Never skimp on your battery. It drags everything else down.

The ESC is also bad. Very outdated. Power is good but brakes are terrible. Hub motors will be fine, though.

Seriously, just buy a complete Meepo V3 and you’ll be better off. A 10s2p of good cells is better than a 10s4p of crap cells.

havocinfinity · October 3, 2020, 3:13am

Thanks for the reply.

If it isn’t too much to ask - can you provide a brief explanation of how you know the battery has low discharge and bad range? I’m curious because I want to understand how to purchase a good battery.

One of the reasons I wanted to try DIY is because I purchased a benchwheel in 2016 and it broke - I don’t know how to fix it. Being more involved with putting the board together will give me more confidence to get back into the hobby. I’d otherwise be discouraged with breaking all the boards I buy and getting new ones. For example, if the battery is broke and I need to replace it, knowing what to look for when purchasing batteries would be much cheaper than buying a new board entirely.

I’m willing to read links to resources if you know any - tbh I’m not the best reader, so anything simple and easy to understand would be best.

BillGordon · October 3, 2020, 3:50am

Two ways to know:

The price. You won’t get a new 10s4p battery with quality cells (like Samsung 30Q) and a proper bypass BMS for less than $400 USD.
I have two of this exact battery pack. In 10s8p configuration, I get decent amps and nothing more, and they sag really early. I’m building a new battery and when it’s done, these batteries will be retired for good.

The reason you want to spend the most on your battery is that it’s the literal heart of your board. With a poor battery, your ESC and motors never reach their true potential.

BillGordon · October 3, 2020, 3:53am

Another DIY lesson I have learned by painful experience is not to throw good money after bad. Fixing your Benchwheel is an example of this. Better to move on to a stronger platform as soon as you’re able.

IguanaMama · October 12, 2020, 8:06pm

Hey, noob electrical questions for you all:

I’m building my first battery pack (12s5p) from 21700-40T cells and I’m coming across some issues with the type of conductors I should be using. Questions below:

Spot welding: my plan to reach the required ampacity of the series connections for my battery pack (175A continuous discharge current) is to layer 5 x 0.2mm thick x 10mm wide nickel strip (each capable of 7.9A each x 5 series connections x 5 layers = 197.5A). I have found other sources using 2x layers. I’ve also heard that as resistivity decreases with increasing layers of conductors, it becomes more challenging to spot weld (requiring more power). Do you have any any experience with this and know if using so many layers will work/be the best way to create high current conductors for the pack? Every source I can find says to avoid soldering wire to the packs (which would be an easy way of addressing the current capacity issue), what are your thoughts on soldering a higher ampacity conductor onto a spot welded nickel strip (or two)?
Main circuit conductor: for the wire gage I’ve decided to go with 10AWG. This is commonly used in other builds I have seen and seems to be a readily available and relatively cheap wire gage. My issue however is that despite other people claiming in their builds that their packs are capable of high current draw, the use of the 10AWG wire would seem to limit the pack to ~30A continuous discharge. Am I missing something here? Do I in fact need to use a higher gage wire to achieve my higher amp draw? My motors seem to be the limiting factor in my system (drawing max 65A CC * 2 = 130A). My intuition tells me that my conductor should be capable of safely delivering this amount of current, but looking at other builds no one I’ve seen uses conductors capable of carrying this much current. Do you have any thoughts on why this may be, or a good solution for a conductor to use (wire type/gage/etc.)?

Lastly, if anyone has good recommendations for a reputable supplier/source for 0.2mm thick 10mm wide nickel strip, a spot welder that can weld it, 10AWG copper wire, and a BMS terminal block (13 ports) I’d appreciate a link.

Attaching my wiring diagram for reference below.

Thanks in advance for any help!

Steve-S-H · December 28, 2020, 3:20pm

Sorry for adding this question in this thread, as the other thread you posted in that I’m referring to doesn’t allow new comments. Here’s the thread…

Here’s the quote of yours my question of yours relates to…

“𝐈’𝐦 𝐬𝐨𝐫𝐫𝐲 𝐢𝐟 𝐢𝐭 𝐝𝐢𝐝, 𝐈 𝐭𝐨𝐨𝐤 𝐦𝐲 𝐭𝐰𝐨 𝐬𝐞𝐦𝐞𝐬𝐭𝐞𝐫𝐬 𝐨𝐟 𝐜𝐚𝐥𝐜𝐮𝐥𝐮𝐬 𝐚 𝐲𝐫. 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐚 𝐡𝐚𝐥𝐟 𝐚𝐠𝐨, 𝐬𝐨 𝐈’𝐦 𝐜𝐨𝐧𝐟𝐢𝐝𝐞𝐧𝐭. 𝐓𝐡𝐞𝐫𝐞 𝐢𝐬 𝐚 𝐜𝐨𝐫𝐫𝐞𝐜𝐭 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐢𝐧𝐜𝐨𝐫𝐫𝐞𝐜𝐭 𝐰𝐚𝐲 𝐭𝐨 𝐬𝐩𝐞𝐚𝐤 𝐚𝐛𝐨𝐮𝐭 𝐚𝐧 𝐨𝐛𝐣𝐞𝐜𝐭𝐬 𝐬𝐢𝐳𝐞 𝐢𝐧 𝐫𝐞𝐥𝐚𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧 𝐭𝐨 𝐚𝐧𝐨𝐭𝐡𝐞𝐫 𝐨𝐛𝐣𝐞𝐜𝐭. 𝐈𝐟 𝐢𝐭 𝐢𝐬 𝐧𝐨𝐭 𝐬𝐭𝐚𝐧𝐝𝐚𝐫𝐝𝐢𝐳𝐞𝐝 𝐰𝐞 𝐜𝐚𝐧 𝐧𝐨𝐭 𝐜𝐨𝐦𝐩𝐚𝐫𝐞.”

Out of curiosity, I have a question for you: If I earned 100k a year at one job, then quit that job and got a new job making 200k a year, by what percentage did my annual income increase?

Because 100k is 50% of 200k, does this mean that i enjoyed a 50% increase in my income?